30k check up
30k check up
does anyone know what the 30k check up consist of? i was thinking of doing it myself so i dont have to pay the dealer 300 to do it. from i get of it is that:
Tire rotation
engine filter change
oil change
spark plug change
check brakes and fluids.
am i missing anything else? where should i get spark plugs? and whats a good brand?
Tire rotation
engine filter change
oil change
spark plug change
check brakes and fluids.
am i missing anything else? where should i get spark plugs? and whats a good brand?
Subaru actually doenst change the plugs until 60K,,,
The 30K they do your tranny and diff oil,
Check your brakes ,,
Oil change
Tire rotation,
I think they also flush your radiator and change your brake fluid,,
Im sure there are things I missed but thats the just of it
The 30K they do your tranny and diff oil,
Check your brakes ,,
Oil change
Tire rotation,
I think they also flush your radiator and change your brake fluid,,
Im sure there are things I missed but thats the just of it
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Car Info: 02 Impreza WRX sedan
2005 WRX schedule. Included with your Owner's Manual was a supplemental booklet on Warranty and Maintenance, including a full chart with maintenance schedule and what needs to be replaced or inspected. Even though the chart in the linked page doesn't specify the 2.0 liter turbo engine, the spark plugs are scheduled to be changed at 60k (but you can do it sooner, too). Some members swear by the copper electrode spark plugs, which are cheaper but need to be changed about once a year. I like the Iridium plugs for a stock or mildly modded engine. I go one step colder on the plugs for a mild reflash/re-mapped ECU.
One thing that is rarely mentioned is that a thin layer of a quality anti-seize compound (not engine oil!) like Permatex's should be applied to new spark plug threads before installation. Aluminum cylinder heads are a lot softer than cast iron heads and the threads can gall or the plugs can seize up occasionally if overtightened. I use the type that's pictured in that little gray plastic bottle with applicator brush.
I had my radiator hoses changed out for Samco silicone hoses for reliability at 60k but you could change these at 30k when the coolant is replaced. After initial fill, check several times as vehicle warms up and thermostat opens. There will be a number of air pockets that have to be purged and the system will need to be topped off. You may have to keep an eye on the reservoir bottle during several days of driving to be sure the system is properly filled. Use a 50/50 concentration of coolant to water. More than that will increase boilover temperature but won't cool the system as well as 50/50. Make sure the coolant is rated for aluminum engine parts corrosion resistance. I think most are...
Another tip is to have the front wheel bearings re-packed at 60k with high-quality synthetic grease after cleaning the parts thoroughly with solvent. Subaru upgraded the grease in later Imprezas but the some '02 models suffered premature bearing failures due to the grease. This is messy to do at home, along with proper disposal of the solvent.
Brake fluid change is pretty simple. Many replace with synthetic like Motul RBF 600 or another Motul synthetic recommended for ABS-equipped cars.
Fluid changes are pretty straightforward. Manual transmission and rear differential have drain plugs. Drain old fluid, replace with whatever the factory recommends. Some members use a mixture of GM Synchromesh fluid and conventional gear lube, while others swear by full synthetic by various manufacturers. I use Red Line Lightweight Shockproof in my transmission and rear differential and have no issues with shifting quality, but never had any problems with the factory fluid, either. Red Line actually recommends their MTL gear oil instead of Shockproof. Add fluid to rear differential up to level of fill plug hole (use your finger to feel the fluid level just inside the threaded hole). For manual transmission, see Staff Member Egan's tutorial with pics for the how-to (best viewed at 1024 by 768 resolution):
http://www.egansworld.com/oldsite/GearOil.html
Don't pour old fluids down storm drains. It will go straight into rivers and streams. Try to find a recycling center that can take that stuff, along with old batteries, spray cans, etc. If you have a shop perform the work, they can dispose of the fluids properly.
--
0==WW==0
"…axles of evil…" - george w. bush
One thing that is rarely mentioned is that a thin layer of a quality anti-seize compound (not engine oil!) like Permatex's should be applied to new spark plug threads before installation. Aluminum cylinder heads are a lot softer than cast iron heads and the threads can gall or the plugs can seize up occasionally if overtightened. I use the type that's pictured in that little gray plastic bottle with applicator brush.
I had my radiator hoses changed out for Samco silicone hoses for reliability at 60k but you could change these at 30k when the coolant is replaced. After initial fill, check several times as vehicle warms up and thermostat opens. There will be a number of air pockets that have to be purged and the system will need to be topped off. You may have to keep an eye on the reservoir bottle during several days of driving to be sure the system is properly filled. Use a 50/50 concentration of coolant to water. More than that will increase boilover temperature but won't cool the system as well as 50/50. Make sure the coolant is rated for aluminum engine parts corrosion resistance. I think most are...
Another tip is to have the front wheel bearings re-packed at 60k with high-quality synthetic grease after cleaning the parts thoroughly with solvent. Subaru upgraded the grease in later Imprezas but the some '02 models suffered premature bearing failures due to the grease. This is messy to do at home, along with proper disposal of the solvent.
Brake fluid change is pretty simple. Many replace with synthetic like Motul RBF 600 or another Motul synthetic recommended for ABS-equipped cars.
Fluid changes are pretty straightforward. Manual transmission and rear differential have drain plugs. Drain old fluid, replace with whatever the factory recommends. Some members use a mixture of GM Synchromesh fluid and conventional gear lube, while others swear by full synthetic by various manufacturers. I use Red Line Lightweight Shockproof in my transmission and rear differential and have no issues with shifting quality, but never had any problems with the factory fluid, either. Red Line actually recommends their MTL gear oil instead of Shockproof. Add fluid to rear differential up to level of fill plug hole (use your finger to feel the fluid level just inside the threaded hole). For manual transmission, see Staff Member Egan's tutorial with pics for the how-to (best viewed at 1024 by 768 resolution):
http://www.egansworld.com/oldsite/GearOil.html
Don't pour old fluids down storm drains. It will go straight into rivers and streams. Try to find a recycling center that can take that stuff, along with old batteries, spray cans, etc. If you have a shop perform the work, they can dispose of the fluids properly.
--
0==WW==0
"…axles of evil…" - george w. bush
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