Buying a WRX today-What price should I pay...
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Thanks for all the replies-I went into the dealer and...
offered 21,500 and they turned me down. I may try again with an offer right at invoice. This was at the Roseville Automall location. I'll probably try my new offer at another dealer though. I fixed a problem I was having with my chipped 99 Audi 1.8t and am thinking about keeping it for now. It's a more refined car but the WRX is faster stock and felt well built. I got a little tired there with all the little problems my car was having, but this just turned out to be a bad spark plug. Only 8k on these $12 a plug Denso Iridiums and I had to chuck them. Thanks for all the replies! They really opened my eyes to buying a car. Wish I would have known some of these things a long time ago. It's good to get educated on the issue. Now I can go buy with a smile, cause I know I'll get a good deal. I do want the dealer(and the salesperson) to make a little money, but not too much.
Thanks,
Darren
Thanks,
Darren
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Usually, If you act like you know what you're talking about and approach the sales staff with a good attitude and have your facts straight, they're more willing to work with you. If you secure your own financing, be prepared to pay a little above invoice on a car, the dealership doesn't make nearly as much money if they don't do the financing. Usually just mentioning nicely that you want invoice on the vehicle will bring the price down to near invoice or at invoice. The main problem is that invoice is different depending on the manufacturer. I worked at a chrysler dealership, and the mark-up was a mere $1,000. At the dealership I talked to, they were fairly honest about what invoice was on a WRX, and were honest about how close they could get with my own financing. I think a Invoice + $500 price is very fair, given the fact I am using my credit union to finance ( 9-10% interest is a bit steep... ) It's all about how you approach your sales rep. If you beat them up, expect them to beat you up. If you pull silly numbers out of thin air, they'll beat you up, but if you have a solid understanding of how the numbers work, they're usually more willing to accomodate. Maybe, this is the first time I've dealt with a dealership that was so willing to negotiate, or maybe I've learned a bit on pricing.
I'm anxious to get the paperwork from the credit union, so I can drive off in a shiny blue WRX...
I'm anxious to get the paperwork from the credit union, so I can drive off in a shiny blue WRX...
Re: No hassle deal
Originally posted by happycamper
get a IMBA membership at www.imba.com for $20.00 . If you can wait 6 months you can get any subaru for invoice.
Good Luck
get a IMBA membership at www.imba.com for $20.00 . If you can wait 6 months you can get any subaru for invoice.
Good Luck
I'm also in the process of buying one as well!
Also...has anyone acually bought via carsdirect.com?
thanks.
Last edited by Acadian; Jan 7, 2003 at 06:52 AM.
Just FYI... I'm awaiting the arrival of my spankin' new '03 WRX wagon which I'm paying $300 under invoice for. I got the invoice and holdback data through consumer reports and from dealerships that publish that info near me.
I'll be financing the car but I'll wait till it shows and get the best deal I can from 'net car financers then go in and see if the dealer can beat the deal I get.
I just sent emails to the local dealers asking for quotes. Took the lowest quote and asked them if they were willing to beat it.
Since holdback is/was $700+ at that point one dealer was willing to sell me it for approx $400 in profit plus the possibility of me financing there...
If you get treated badly because they are the only Subie dealer nearby then start dealing with dealers that aren't as close. If you can drive an hour or so and save several thousand I'd say it's worth it.
It also helps if you are ordering the car instead of taking it off the lot at you are guaranteeing them their whole holdback instead of whatever it ends up after the car sits on the lot...
I'll be financing the car but I'll wait till it shows and get the best deal I can from 'net car financers then go in and see if the dealer can beat the deal I get.
I just sent emails to the local dealers asking for quotes. Took the lowest quote and asked them if they were willing to beat it.
Since holdback is/was $700+ at that point one dealer was willing to sell me it for approx $400 in profit plus the possibility of me financing there...
If you get treated badly because they are the only Subie dealer nearby then start dealing with dealers that aren't as close. If you can drive an hour or so and save several thousand I'd say it's worth it.
It also helps if you are ordering the car instead of taking it off the lot at you are guaranteeing them their whole holdback instead of whatever it ends up after the car sits on the lot...
Well I bought a new WRX wagon last night with Short throw shifter, Ti **** and Turbo Gauge for $23,600 out the door. Does this seem like a good deal? Unfortunately I'm not the most aggressive negotiator! :-\
The one I test-drove had leather seats and a sunroof, which was cool, but the car had 270+ Miles on it, which was bad...
The one I test-drove had leather seats and a sunroof, which was cool, but the car had 270+ Miles on it, which was bad...
Last edited by Acadian; Jan 8, 2003 at 06:37 AM.
Re: To Acadian: Does out the door mean tax, title, and license too?
Originally posted by darren
That is a good deal because I believe invoice would be around 23,150. If you got tax, title and license included, I think you got a smokin' deal.
That is a good deal because I believe invoice would be around 23,150. If you got tax, title and license included, I think you got a smokin' deal.
Last edited by Acadian; Jan 9, 2003 at 08:41 AM.
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