Subwoofer not working?
Subwoofer not working?
I got a 98 2.5rs with an aftermarket headunit, amp and subwoofer.
All the speakers plus the subwoofer is connected to the amp. The problem is the subwoofer works sometimes and and stop working most of the time.
I suspect the amp but if the amp is no good none of the woofer would be working.
SO I check the connection from the amp to the woofer and seems OK. now I'm puzzle????
All the speakers plus the subwoofer is connected to the amp. The problem is the subwoofer works sometimes and and stop working most of the time.
I suspect the amp but if the amp is no good none of the woofer would be working.
SO I check the connection from the amp to the woofer and seems OK. now I'm puzzle????
Originally Posted by ldivinag
answer these questions:
1. what are your components?
2. are the other speakers working when the sub cuts out?
3. does the sub cut out when you start to play LOTS of bass?
1. what are your components?
2. are the other speakers working when the sub cuts out?
3. does the sub cut out when you start to play LOTS of bass?
answers
1. Clarion CD player, speakers hook on to an Amp behind the subwoofer box which is located in the trunk. The subwoofer is hook up to the same amp.
2. Yes all the speakers keep working when sub cut out.
3. Yes when I play alot of bass the sub will cut off after 15 mins. Now it won't even come back on.
are you using a crossover? if yes, is it a passive or active?
is the sub connected to diff channels than the other speakers?
does the amp have diagnostic lights that tells you if you overload/overheat or damage it?
what is the model/make of the amp?
also, slowly BUT GENTLY push down on the cone of the sub. it should feel smooth as you push in on the voice coil. (the thing in the middle of the mgnet stucture).
if it feels "gritty" chances are you've blown the speaker...
is the sub connected to diff channels than the other speakers?
does the amp have diagnostic lights that tells you if you overload/overheat or damage it?
what is the model/make of the amp?
also, slowly BUT GENTLY push down on the cone of the sub. it should feel smooth as you push in on the voice coil. (the thing in the middle of the mgnet stucture).
if it feels "gritty" chances are you've blown the speaker...
Originally Posted by ldivinag
are you using a crossover? if yes, is it a passive or active?
is the sub connected to diff channels than the other speakers?
does the amp have diagnostic lights that tells you if you overload/overheat or damage it?
what is the model/make of the amp?
also, slowly BUT GENTLY push down on the cone of the sub. it should feel smooth as you push in on the voice coil. (the thing in the middle of the mgnet stucture).
if it feels "gritty" chances are you've blown the speaker...
is the sub connected to diff channels than the other speakers?
does the amp have diagnostic lights that tells you if you overload/overheat or damage it?
what is the model/make of the amp?
also, slowly BUT GENTLY push down on the cone of the sub. it should feel smooth as you push in on the voice coil. (the thing in the middle of the mgnet stucture).
if it feels "gritty" chances are you've blown the speaker...
I will answer the question as much as possible since I just got the car from someone
are you using a crossover? if yes, is it a passive or active?(NO IDEA)
The speakers are all connected to the amp along with the subwoofer but all the + and - are hook up to individual channel
The amp has no light but if the amp overheats than everything should stop working right?
I don't know what brand it is. The sub seem undamage and I never overload it
it's frustratrating everyone tells me its a loss wire but I think I know what a loss wire looks like
can you NOT read the printing on the amp?
some multichannel amps can shutdown individual channels if they are made like tha.
btw, did you try to switch the speaker leads on the amp.
swap the main speakers with the sub wiring. eliminate the simplest thing.
if you connect the sub to the channels powering the other channels and nothing plays and when you connect the other speakers to it, they play, then the sub is blown.
if you connect the other speakers to the terminal where the sub was wired into and those speakers dont play, then you know that those terminals/channels of the amp is dead...
some multichannel amps can shutdown individual channels if they are made like tha.
btw, did you try to switch the speaker leads on the amp.
swap the main speakers with the sub wiring. eliminate the simplest thing.
if you connect the sub to the channels powering the other channels and nothing plays and when you connect the other speakers to it, they play, then the sub is blown.
if you connect the other speakers to the terminal where the sub was wired into and those speakers dont play, then you know that those terminals/channels of the amp is dead...
Originally Posted by ldivinag
can you NOT read the printing on the amp?
some multichannel amps can shutdown individual channels if they are made like tha.
btw, did you try to switch the speaker leads on the amp.
swap the main speakers with the sub wiring. eliminate the simplest thing.
if you connect the sub to the channels powering the other channels and nothing plays and when you connect the other speakers to it, they play, then the sub is blown.
if you connect the other speakers to the terminal where the sub was wired into and those speakers dont play, then you know that those terminals/channels of the amp is dead...
some multichannel amps can shutdown individual channels if they are made like tha.
btw, did you try to switch the speaker leads on the amp.
swap the main speakers with the sub wiring. eliminate the simplest thing.
if you connect the sub to the channels powering the other channels and nothing plays and when you connect the other speakers to it, they play, then the sub is blown.
if you connect the other speakers to the terminal where the sub was wired into and those speakers dont play, then you know that those terminals/channels of the amp is dead...
Today I finally have time to pinpoint the sub problem.
I find out I have a sony sub with bottons and switches on it. I don know what the do but the speakers are hook to the C/D part and the sub is hook up to the B/D or A/B part. There are 2 switches that I can adjust with a flat plate screwdriver. when I turn the switch the volumn increase and the bottons are label "filter" 85mhz and 50mz off and another 85mhz.......(just so you know)
The amp works 100% every channels work I use a spare set of speaker to test time so I figure it's either the sub or the wire to the sub is no good.......
IT TURNS OUT to be the sub.. The sub wire thats attach to the center of the sub cone seems to be loose in side the sub. when I tap on the + the sub start working and if i let it sit it will stop working(I know it's hard to understand. I guess all these years of the sub beating back and forth the wires in side the cone got loose. all I did was tape the too wires closer together and now it's working 100% of the time everytime..
Thank you. If it stop working again I'll just get a new sub no big deal
umm... so where do i send the consulting fees bill to????? 
btw, what is the model of the sony amp.
you DO wanna use that filter. it's an active crossover so the "bad" frequencies arent sent to the speakers.
like you dont wanna send low frequencies to the tweeters. and you dont want to send high freqs to the subs. cause they will try to play them and in the case of the tweeters, damage might occur, in the sub's case, you are wasting power...

btw, what is the model of the sony amp.
you DO wanna use that filter. it's an active crossover so the "bad" frequencies arent sent to the speakers.
like you dont wanna send low frequencies to the tweeters. and you dont want to send high freqs to the subs. cause they will try to play them and in the case of the tweeters, damage might occur, in the sub's case, you are wasting power...
Originally Posted by ldivinag
umm... so where do i send the consulting fees bill to????? 
btw, what is the model of the sony amp.
you DO wanna use that filter. it's an active crossover so the "bad" frequencies arent sent to the speakers.
like you dont wanna send low frequencies to the tweeters. and you dont want to send high freqs to the subs. cause they will try to play them and in the case of the tweeters, damage might occur, in the sub's case, you are wasting power...

btw, what is the model of the sony amp.
you DO wanna use that filter. it's an active crossover so the "bad" frequencies arent sent to the speakers.
like you dont wanna send low frequencies to the tweeters. and you dont want to send high freqs to the subs. cause they will try to play them and in the case of the tweeters, damage might occur, in the sub's case, you are wasting power...
Thanks
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
NRTmotorsports
Engine/Power - EJ20T (pre-2006 WRX and JDM)
5
Jul 30, 2007 07:53 AM
2point5AWD
Engine/Power - non turbo (All non turbo Imprezas)
7
Sep 6, 2006 09:38 AM




