Solo baric sub (the square )
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From: Brooklyn / Rockland County, New York
Car Info: Subaru Wrx
Solo baric sub (the square )
I would think it would be easier to put a solo baric sub in my wrx sedan because of the shape could you make a custom box lets say out of fiber glass and still save space like if i molded it to the side of the car close to the hinge of the trunk?
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From: Automotive racist capitol of the world, Detroit.
Car Info: 2000 impreza 2.5 rs
nosnam did just that.
https://www.i-club.com/forums/stereo-security-70/enclosure-questions-105180/
If i were to do the same i would just take the inside of the wheel well and extend it flat all the way back.... the only thing with my plan is it might not be deep enough.
https://www.i-club.com/forums/stereo-security-70/enclosure-questions-105180/
If i were to do the same i would just take the inside of the wheel well and extend it flat all the way back.... the only thing with my plan is it might not be deep enough.
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From: Automotive racist capitol of the world, Detroit.
Car Info: 2000 impreza 2.5 rs
Originally Posted by RallyKen
does the box have to be that big beause thats alot of space
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the nice things about the solo baric subs is they are designed to use a smaller amount of air space when compared to most other subs.
I used to have one like 6 years ago and loved it.
I used to have one like 6 years ago and loved it.
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Joined: Jul 2005
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From: Brooklyn / Rockland County, New York
Car Info: Subaru Wrx
so do you think i willl be able to us the same location as this guy because thats about all the space i really wanna give up you know http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show...2&page=2&pp=25
you could probably make it smaller, I would definately make it in the spare tire space if I had 1 sub, If you did not angle it so much like I did then you can make that box considerably smaller. hope this helps
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From: Automotive racist capitol of the world, Detroit.
Car Info: 2000 impreza 2.5 rs
Originally Posted by RallyKen
yea it helps making a a spare tire fiberglass box would be awesome but then where am i gonna keep my spare lol damn
Originally Posted by cudaeh
you can make the boxes any size you want but you have to calcualte the ideal displacement (air displacement) to get the ideal soud out of it... to small of air displacement and you will get a hollow sound and too much and the the bass will sound to 'boggy' meaning that the base reaction will be way slow. There are a couple of websights that will give you a read out of what it should be you can find them thru a surch engine.
Along these lines, a little trick you can use when trying to figure airspace for an odd shape that doesn't fit into conventional geometric volume formula is to use a box of the appropriate air space, fill it with packing peanuts, then use that quantity of packing peanuts (contained in a plastic bag) as a gauge of how close you are to the proper airspace.
Chris
Typically for sealed enclosures most subwoofers are forgiving to various sealed air spaces. Do not bother measureing afterwards, unless it sounds bad, not worth the time.
If the box is too small - just add more power.
As for fiberglass, a few things to keep in mind.
Always keep the shapes simple unless you have a lot of experience and know how to shape panels. The complex the design, the longer you will have to sand.
Always try and staple the flece to mdf, wood or plastic.
DO NOT USE generic superglue or regular hotglue. Resin has chemicals that eat superglue for breakfast. Also resin uses a chemical reaction to cure, this gerates a lot of heat - guess what that does to hotglue??????
If you need to glue the cloth down use Extra thick cyanoacrylate with Insta-Set. this stuff will stand up to fiberglass resign
As for finishing, if you are planning on paiting the panel, do not use BONDO, it does not bond that well to fiberglass and tends to crack in extreme temperatures (espically during the summer). Instead go to a local autobody supply store and ask about polester fillers - designed to bond with polyester resins (i.e. fiberglass).
If you are goind to carpet or vinyl the panel then you do not have to sand the panel as much.
Sub enclosures should have several layers of moderate weight fiberglass mat. Once the glass work is completed, add a layer of dynamat (or other sound deadening) to the inside of the enlcosure.
If the box is too small - just add more power.
As for fiberglass, a few things to keep in mind.
Always keep the shapes simple unless you have a lot of experience and know how to shape panels. The complex the design, the longer you will have to sand.
Always try and staple the flece to mdf, wood or plastic.
DO NOT USE generic superglue or regular hotglue. Resin has chemicals that eat superglue for breakfast. Also resin uses a chemical reaction to cure, this gerates a lot of heat - guess what that does to hotglue??????
If you need to glue the cloth down use Extra thick cyanoacrylate with Insta-Set. this stuff will stand up to fiberglass resign
As for finishing, if you are planning on paiting the panel, do not use BONDO, it does not bond that well to fiberglass and tends to crack in extreme temperatures (espically during the summer). Instead go to a local autobody supply store and ask about polester fillers - designed to bond with polyester resins (i.e. fiberglass).
If you are goind to carpet or vinyl the panel then you do not have to sand the panel as much.
Sub enclosures should have several layers of moderate weight fiberglass mat. Once the glass work is completed, add a layer of dynamat (or other sound deadening) to the inside of the enlcosure.
Last edited by nhayden; Sep 8, 2005 at 05:54 PM.
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