Bay Area Photographers
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Taking shots in dim light means a "fast" lens, i.e. low f-stop number (think f/2.8 for a zoom). You need a wide aperture to grab a lot of light, since capturing moving subjects crisply dictates a higher shutter. Image stabilization won't help with a moving subject. Alas, faster lenses are heavier -- more glass for a bigger aperture -- and more expensive than their slower cousins. Having said that, if you're mostly taking daytime outdoor shots you can get away without an enormously fast lens, especially in California in the summer where light is plentiful.
For night shots, don't worry so much about the speed of the lens. For marginal conditions -- think well lit car parks at dusk -- image stabilization combined with higher ISO (think 800) will let you get some good handheld shots down to shutter speeds about 1/15 of a second. For "real" night shots you'll be on a tripod with a multi-second exposure anyway (even IS won't let you do that handheld) and the speed of the lens isn't terribly important. Here's a gallery all shot as long exposures, some on a Canon 17-85mm f/4-5.6, others on the 70-200mm f/4l.
For night shots, don't worry so much about the speed of the lens. For marginal conditions -- think well lit car parks at dusk -- image stabilization combined with higher ISO (think 800) will let you get some good handheld shots down to shutter speeds about 1/15 of a second. For "real" night shots you'll be on a tripod with a multi-second exposure anyway (even IS won't let you do that handheld) and the speed of the lens isn't terribly important. Here's a gallery all shot as long exposures, some on a Canon 17-85mm f/4-5.6, others on the 70-200mm f/4l.
even though that is true it is not what i would recommend. shooting at 2.8 will give you a very shallow dept of field. that means your forcusing will not show the whole image. i am one that shoots objects and people with my 2.8 lens at f/4 so i get my desired image. when i shoot outdoors and scenic i tend to close the lens at f/22-64 depending on what lens i am using.
shooting at high ISO is not very desireable because of grain. i pretty much shoot at 50 ISO or max of 160. i never shoot 400 or 800. that's why i always use a solid tripod.
one more thing to keep in mind when shooting in digital cameras.. if you're shooting at a slow shutter speeds that require a tripod, then you are wearing out your sensor. they do get hot if you're shooting something for over 30 seconds. that is another reason i love shooting film with all manual cameras.
Last edited by MyNikonLens; Feb 20, 2008 at 11:51 AM.
damn it! I just came back on a service and took some before and after pics... But I didn't realized I screwed up the before pics. I had a preset WB from last night so the pics are super blue. 
Is this something I can fix using PS (Hugo)? I hope so, I can't work on them until later tonight...
Leo
Is this something I can fix using PS (Hugo)? I hope so, I can't work on them until later tonight... Leo
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damn it! I just came back on a service and took some before and after pics... But I didn't realized I screwed up the before pics. I had a preset WB from last night so the pics are super blue. Is this something I can fix using PS (Hugo)? I hope so, I can't work on them until later tonight...
Leo
Is this something I can fix using PS (Hugo)? I hope so, I can't work on them until later tonight... Leo
damn it! I just came back on a service and took some before and after pics... But I didn't realized I screwed up the before pics. I had a preset WB from last night so the pics are super blue. Is this something I can fix using PS (Hugo)? I hope so, I can't work on them until later tonight...
Leo
Is this something I can fix using PS (Hugo)? I hope so, I can't work on them until later tonight... Leo
dude, PM me your email addy and I'll forward them to you... Thanks man! But I also want to learn so please do post the solution for me. 
Thanks!
Come on JZ, you should know me by now, I don't know how to work with raw files! 
I shot them in jpeg only. Hopefully Hugo can help me out with it...
Thanks! I shot them in jpeg only. Hopefully Hugo can help me out with it...
even though that is true it is not what i would recommend. shooting at 2.8 will give you a very shallow dept of field. that means your forcusing will not show the whole image. i am one that shoots objects and people with my 2.8 lens at f/4 so i get my desired image. when i shoot outdoors and scenic i tend to close the lens at f/22-64 depending on what lens i am using.
shooting at high ISO is not very desireable because of grain. i pretty much shoot at 50 ISO or max of 160. i never shoot 400 or 800. that's why i always use a solid tripod.
one more thing to keep in mind when shooting in digital cameras.. if you're shooting at a slow shutter speeds that require a tripod, then you are wearing out your sensor. they do get hot if you're shooting something for over 30 seconds. that is another reason i love shooting film with all manual cameras.
shooting at high ISO is not very desireable because of grain. i pretty much shoot at 50 ISO or max of 160. i never shoot 400 or 800. that's why i always use a solid tripod.
one more thing to keep in mind when shooting in digital cameras.. if you're shooting at a slow shutter speeds that require a tripod, then you are wearing out your sensor. they do get hot if you're shooting something for over 30 seconds. that is another reason i love shooting film with all manual cameras.
even though that is true it is not what i would recommend. shooting at 2.8 will give you a very shallow dept of field. that means your forcusing will not show the whole image. i am one that shoots objects and people with my 2.8 lens at f/4 so i get my desired image. when i shoot outdoors and scenic i tend to close the lens at f/22-64 depending on what lens i am using.
one more thing to keep in mind when shooting in digital cameras.. if you're shooting at a slow shutter speeds that require a tripod, then you are wearing out your sensor. they do get hot if you're shooting something for over 30 seconds. that is another reason i love shooting film with all manual cameras.
Last edited by JZ oo7; Feb 20, 2008 at 01:22 PM.
here are some resized versions... the first one is the super blue one and the second one is too dark. but that one I know how to adjust using level. really just need help on the 'super blue'... 