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Soccer05 Bugeye GTX 3071 Street Track Build Thread

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Soccer05 Bugeye GTX 3071 Street Track Build Thread

Old 09-06-2012, 04:45 PM
  #211  
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Where can I get myself a set of those MSI front end links and what did they cost you?
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Old 09-07-2012, 10:09 AM
  #212  
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Got the car all picked up today, and omg the car looks amazing. It just has a baseline tune because the car could not be strapped onto the dyno until the fenders were pulled to make room for the huge tires. Popped the engine bay and am completely blown away, the car looks amazing. Definitely top notch work done by Mike and Tommy at GST. Car fires right up, idles very well with the big 850cc injectors, fitment of the parts is superb. Had to lose the cruise control because the external wastegate of the GTX3071 was venting right onto it, but thats no big deal because I have used the cruise control exactly 0 times since buying the car. Fuel system is top drawer install as well, fpr and fuel pressure gauge reside where the oem windshield washers resorvoir resided, as we didn't see any point mounting it near the wastegate of the turbo as the instructions called for. Now just need to complete the fender work and paint to finish this project.

Here is a little teaser pic of the engine bay...



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Old 09-07-2012, 02:27 PM
  #213  
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Originally Posted by Gancherov View Post
Where can I get myself a set of those MSI front end links and what did they cost you?
I got them directly from Msi, you can pm mark directly on nasioc (his screename is Msi) and he can quote you a price and timeframe for delivery. They have very good customer service and took quite a bit of time answering all my questions for my build which is very low budget compared to the pro level cars they work on. Their website is MSI – Manufacturer of Competition Components and has their direct contact information, but I can't pull it up on my iPhone.

In regards to price I can't remember exactly, I bought them some time ago, but they are in the same price range as the whiteline endlinks, but in my opinion a much higher quality bearing is used. You could probably get a set from turn in concepts as I know they run a set on heir time attack race car. I definitely feel these are a step up up in quality than is typically seen in aftermarket components. There is a reason I will be using so many Msi parts in the next part of my build.
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Old 09-08-2012, 07:56 AM
  #214  
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Closeup of the ATP GTX 3071 turbo with tial external wastegate and APS TMIC with custom passenger side mounting bracket fabricated. All boost connections are made with Samco silicone hoses to increase reliability. Very clean work, very excited to finish the body work and get this thing tuned and start enjoying the car. All connections to the turbo have been upgraded to stainless steel lines and an fittings to ensure reliability, I didn't want to pour all this money into the car and then have an oil leak on the up pipe and catch my car on fire. Only fluid line not upgraded to stainless was the turbo coolant line, as the coolant will rust and corrode the inside of the stainless line.


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Old 09-10-2012, 09:30 AM
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Aeromotive fuel system installed to ensure adequate fuel delivery at higher horsepower levels, and provide a solid foundation for my fuel system when I upgrade to a built sti block. I tried to purchase as many of the parts as possible to be interchangeable with future power upgrades and goals. While not a necessity at this power level, the added insurance is nice since I am pushing quite a bit of power out of the 2.0, and definitely will be nice when I upgrade to the sti block. Aeromotive fuel pressure regulator was mounted were the windshield washer resorvoir was located, due to the wastegate and turbo heat in the area aeromotive says to install the resorvoir (passenger strut tower). Very impressed with the quality of the aeromotive kit, while pricey, the workmanship is top notch.



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Old 09-12-2012, 11:29 AM
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Picture of the interior. Racetech rt4009hr seat installed on sparco sliders and seat rails, utilizing a 3 inch 5 point race tech harness with fia cam lock. Very high quality belt, as I understand it the racetech harnesses are made by willans,who makes some of the best harnesses on the market, and is rebadged with the racetech logo. I must say, just cruising to and from the garage is how much I love the racetech brand of seats, they are so supportive and rigid, definitely making it easy to feel exactly what the car is telling you, but has a comfortable foam padding to make the car tolerable on long drives. Very impressed, the seat is a notch above the others I have tried, as most race car bucket seats are too harsh and lead to a numb and aching backside if driven for long periods of time. I now see why the Racetech seats are so highly recommended by those that have used them. Cockpit is very functional with everything within easy reach.





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Old 09-13-2012, 10:46 AM
  #217  
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View of all the safety hardware installed, Racetech seat, Racetech 5 point harness, and Sparco Harness bar. Notice the bar is set at the proper height to keep the harnesses at the proper orientation to hold the driver safely in a crash. Often people bolt the belts in at extreme angles which will actually compress the spine with a dangerous amount of force if not installed within the angles specified. After spending all this money on safety equipment, I want to make sure it all works properly.


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Old 09-17-2012, 02:52 PM
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Very excited, just confirmed an order of karlton's fender flares for my wrx. Very excited, I am sure many of you have seen his car over on iwsti or on t3hclap's website, but he went out and got a set of fender flares custom molded to his sti, then kept the molds and is remaking them for people to use. I wish I had known I was going to do fender flares prior to my wheel purchase, because the easily swallow a 18x10.5 et+15 wheel with a 295 series tire on them. So my current setup will be slightly sunk in, oem looking sunk in, but I will be able to get full compression travel with my plus sized wheel combo, and for my current power levels a 295 is a bit of overkill. Of course, when I step up to my built sti block and full rac eturbo setup, I will need this amount of mechanical grip. Huge, huge thanks to karlton (xtremeyolks on iwsti.com), he has been a huge help with advice and recommendations throughout this build. For the few that don't know, this is a pic of his car off t3hclaps website, showing what the flares look like. Very clean, very functional... exactly what I need for my project.

http://t3hclap.com/wp-content/upload.../12/pic-11.jpg

http://t3hclap.com/wp-content/upload.../12/pic-12.jpg
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Old 09-20-2012, 11:40 AM
  #219  
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Here's a *****y pic of the view from the drivers seat. As you can see all the gauges are laid out in a way to make it easy for the driver to receive all the vital information at a glance. I'm not sure whether I want to keep the greddy i-touch down low, I probably will keep it there but I am tempted to throw it in where the clock goes and do some customization to a triple gauge pod to make it fit and look clean. I probably won't do it, as I am not sure it will look decent but I have tossed around the idea in my head. AEM wideband uego gauge mounted right at base of a pillar, defi egt gauge mounted on steering wheel, greddy infometer mounted down low below the radio. I am deciding on whether to purchase a a new steering wheel and hub, still undecided either an OMP wheel or a Sparco, preferrably in 330 mm or maybe even a 350mm. Also need to decide on a seating solution for the passenger seat, not sure if I am going to purchase another racetech seat, or put in an sti seat for the passenger. I am leaning towards the sti seat currently due to budget (racetech seat, mounting brackets, sparco slider, sparco seat base, and 4 or 5 point harness) versus sti seat used $400-500 and harnesses. Not sure, we will see where the budget is at the time, but I really want to use the racetech rt4009. I can not tell you how amazing it is, very comfortable yet supportive, and definitely lets you feel exactly what the car is telling you, I am very impressed with this seat. This may be a stupid question, but any chance a passenger seat from a gr sti will bolt in to my gd, or am I stuck with using a sti version 7/8 seat.


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Old 10-10-2012, 04:43 PM
  #220  
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Picked up the karlton fender flares on Tuesday. I can not tell you how nice these flares are, they look absolutely amazing on his car. It will be nice to have no problems fitting larger rubber when I upgrade my motor drivetrain package. These flares easily swallow 295's on a 10.5 wheel with a +15 offset. I will be sticking with my current rim/tire combo for the time being , as 275's are plenty of tire for my current power level (a relatively low 330-350 whp, still waiting to be dyno'd until body work is completely). I have been crazy busy with work but will post pics up soon. I have an appointment scheduled with a highly recommended body shop from some friends of mine who will be attaching the flares, painting them wrb and blending, as well as installing the quick release front bumper. Very impressed with these flares, as well as finding a body shop that knew exactly how I want things done and can do it. More pics and updates to follow. I can not tell you how nice and meaty these flares look on the car, huge thanks to karlton for bringing such a nice product to the market, as well as his advice and guidance throughout my build.


Oh, earlier this week finished plotting out all my suspension pickup points, all measured now I just need to transfer the measurements to graph paper and map out my suspension geometry. I am hoping to run a 15mm spacer like t3h_clap recommended, but need to see exactly how it will affect my scrub radius and kpi. Was gonna graph it out this week but work got in the way, but all the hard parts are done, now it is just transplanting coordinates to graph paper. Very important as I wanted to check my roll couple and instant centers as well, so I really needed to do this step but had been dragging my feet. More updates to follow, hopefully everything will work out properly.
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Old 10-10-2012, 04:43 PM
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So finished mapping out my front suspension geometry. Very, very happy with my ballpark settings. For those that are interested, on a car with a ride height Of 13.5 inches center of hub to top of fender arch, 2.25 degrees camber, sti front control arms and 18x9.5 et35 rims with 275/35-18 tires, I have a scrub radius of 8 or 12 mm. I will have to check my notes as i dont have my notes on me. This is excellent for steering feel without being so excessive as to cause torque steer. I am going to experiment with some 10mm spacers and see how that affects the steering feels, would still keep me under an inch of scrub, give me slightly more inboard clearance to my fender wells, and widen the track width. When I get back home I will update my measurements so people know where my lateral instant centers are, roll couples, etc. on a similar setup. Very excited, now I need to order some arp extended wheel studs to fit with my spacers.
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Old 10-10-2012, 04:44 PM
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For any suspension geeks out there who care, a minor update on my suspension geometry. As stated on the post above, for my car with this combination of parts and ride height, I am currently running 15mm of scrub radius with my parts combination. This is excellent for steering feel, providing good steering feel without excessive torque steer or side scrub. I will be testing out a 10mm spacer for the car, to see if I like the feel with the increased scrub radius. This would increase the scrub radius to 25mm of scrub, or 1 inch. I was tempted to test a 20 mm spacers (which would increase my track width almost an additional inch per side) but decided against it to keep my torque steer to a minimum. I feel one inch of scrub is a decent compromise between steering feel, torque steer, and track width.

My lateral instant center is now about 104" from vehicle centerline, and 74.6 inches from wheel centerline.

Roll Center height is 4 inches above the ground.

KPA is at 15 degrees

Hopefully this helps those interested in modifying their wrx suspension for handling make some informed decisions. All measurements were done with the vehicle as is, without the 10mm spacers. Obviously, the spacers would change the measurements some. I am also contemplating grinding on my strut housing to enable more camber to be adjusted at the shock, and less negative on my camber plates, which would reduce my scrub radius slightly and my sai. All of this would again slightly change my final measurements. I will post up my final end product when I decide which I want to do.

Last edited by soccer05; 10-10-2012 at 04:49 PM.
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Old 10-12-2012, 06:04 PM
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nice build!!! do you have any pixs or videos of the car complete??
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Old 10-14-2012, 09:05 AM
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Originally Posted by jblanco325 View Post
nice build!!! do you have any pixs or videos of the car complete??
No pictures or vid yet, the project is waiting for paint. My body shop was in the process of moving to a better facility, so I decided to wait until they moved and be one of the first cars completed at the new facility.they should have finished the move last week, so I am calling on Monday to set up the specifics. Then all that is left is to install my arp extended wheel studs and 10mm hub centric wheel spacers, then gst performs the final wot tune (couldn't be dyno tuned prior due to the fenders, tires were so wide it couldn't be strapped to the dyno) then I get to enjoy the car while saving for a 6 speed.
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Old 11-02-2012, 10:48 PM
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Well I know it has been a while, but again progress has been made with my project. While waiting for the bodyshop to finish moving into its new facility, I decided to purchase a set of 10mm hubcentric spacers from WheelAdapter.com is your number one source for wheel adapters, wheel spacers, used wheels, and wheel studs.. To safely run the spacer, I needed to upgrade to ARP extended wheel studs. I am kicking myself in the butt for cheaping out earlier in the build, as I could have had them pressed in while the wheel bearings were being replaced, but decided against it due to budget. Since budget has long since gone out the window, ARP extended studs are here. Front install was easy, first remove the Stoptech Front Brake Caliper and front brake rotor to get to the studs.


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