oem lugnuts and wheel studs

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Old Feb 18, 2004 | 05:12 PM
  #16  
iNfEk's Avatar
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From: Boostin' troubles away - 4EAT Memories 12.87@103.2
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ok... well I have to take care of them tonight (hopefully)... I'll let you know what you need. Also do you know if the ABS System for the AUTO is the same as the 5MT?

Jon
Old Feb 18, 2004 | 05:14 PM
  #17  
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I don't know?? But don't see why they would they be different
Old Feb 18, 2004 | 06:50 PM
  #18  
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oh ok.. if all goes well tonight I should have it done tonight... also how bad are the threads? you might be able to re-tap them!

Jon
Old Feb 18, 2004 | 10:30 PM
  #19  
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From: Boostin' troubles away - 4EAT Memories 12.87@103.2
Car Info: 51E LHD V7 STI (2.0)
Update:

I did the passanger side rear today and I must say that it was kinda tuff to do just for 1 tiny broken stud!

According to the FSM you'll have to remove the entire wheel area to get to the wheel hub to change the studs...

all I can say is: ahhhhhhhhhhhhhh NO!

so here goes (sorry no pictures)

Rear Hub Studs:

00. take your time and don't rush!!!
01. Take off the lug nuts
02. Take off the wheel
03. remove the brake caliper by removing 14mm x 2 bolts
04. remove the brake caliper braket by removing 14mm x 2 bolts from the back of the wheel hub area closest to the rear axle
05. take down the e-brake if you have it applied
06. remove the brake rotor. If it's stuck you might have to use a rubber mallet and wack the rotor surface until it gets loose.
07. you will now see the drum brake assembly (knowledge of taking apart this type of braking system is required as well as special brake system tools). I didn't know how so I told my dad to do it :banana:
08. remove the drum brake assembly (try to keep it in tact as much as possible)
09. now you should see just the wheel hub and an aluminum gear that is attached to the back of the wheel hub (that is called a Tone Wheel, it's used for your ABS system. Very fragile do not drop or break it). remove the ABS sensor, 12mm x 1 bolt
10. there are 5mm x 4 hex bolts that connect the Tone Wheel to the back of the hub. Remove all 5mm x 4 hex bolts. mark the Tone Wheel and the wheel hub before you take off these bolts so that you know how they both line up
11. now slide the Tone Wheel all the way back against the brake dust plate (sorry don't know the right name for that piece)
12. fully thread lug nuts back on to undamaged studs (to prevent damage to threads)
13. using a ball peen (sp?) hammer and pound the **** out of that broken stud to remove it
14. reinstall the new stud with the grooves within the wheel hub
15. get about 3~5 washers and put them over the newly installed stud
16. now get a 12 x 1.25 (you'll have to double check this) open end lug nut (be safe and get them from schuman, very inexpensive, get more than one just in case, (4) should be enough) and thread it on to the stud until it contacts the washers with the tappered end facing you.
17. using an impact gun tighten the open end lug nut until the gap between the stud base is flush with the wheel hub
18. take your time and don't rush!!!
19. install everything in reverse order

I know this is ****ty without pictures but it's the best I can do for now

hope this helps mario

Jon

Last edited by iNfEk; Feb 19, 2004 at 10:27 PM.
Old Feb 19, 2004 | 10:42 AM
  #20  
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From: Flying on the H1 w/ 75 psi of compression on all 4 cyl
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Copied/Pasted

Thanks Jon :banana:
Old Feb 19, 2004 | 05:32 PM
  #21  
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One note on your install; Make sure that you fully seat the lug nut onto the stud before you hammer it out. That way, you don't transfer the force directly through the threads. Also, if you are doing a lot of studs (i.e. extended lug nuts) be sure to periodically inspect the threads of your 'sacrificial lugnut'. The head and threads will get worked and may eventually screw up the stud's threads. Trust me, I speak from experience. Also, DO NOT reuse the sacrificial lug nut.

All you have to do for the drum brake assembly is to loosen the parking brake from inside the car and disconnect the cable from inside the drum assembly. That way you don't mess with the retaining pins and springs in the drum assembly. This will clear up space to remove/install the lug nut.
Old Feb 19, 2004 | 10:15 PM
  #22  
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From: Boostin' troubles away - 4EAT Memories 12.87@103.2
Car Info: 51E LHD V7 STI (2.0)
here's a picture of what the tone wheel looks like on the rear axle..

Again it is very fragile and you should take care not to break it!

Jon
Attached Thumbnails oem lugnuts and wheel studs-tonewheel.jpg  

Last edited by iNfEk; Feb 19, 2004 at 10:24 PM.
Old Feb 19, 2004 | 10:25 PM
  #23  
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From: Boostin' troubles away - 4EAT Memories 12.87@103.2
Car Info: 51E LHD V7 STI (2.0)
mario.. I updated the steps to perform this... please update your info
Old Nov 16, 2005 | 01:37 AM
  #24  
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crap i broke a stud today ....front driver-side....help....jon? ty? anyone?
Old Nov 16, 2005 | 01:47 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by mario
Copied/Pasted

Thanks Jon :banana:
dude i got the bolts and have tried to call u a while ago when do u want the bolts for the door????

btw jon i have my old rear crossmeber still ucan have anything from there that u need that fits let me know shaggy
Old Nov 16, 2005 | 06:57 PM
  #26  
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From: Boostin' troubles away - 4EAT Memories 12.87@103.2
Car Info: 51E LHD V7 STI (2.0)
back from the dead thanks to Randy. good info for the newbies

Jon
Old Nov 16, 2005 | 08:05 PM
  #27  
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give me a call later or send me a pm
Old Nov 16, 2005 | 09:14 PM
  #28  
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i have 14 spare wheel studs...



aloha from the summit of *-^-Mauna Kea-^-*
Old Feb 8, 2006 | 12:59 PM
  #29  
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From: Boostin' troubles away - 4EAT Memories 12.87@103.2
Car Info: 51E LHD V7 STI (2.0)
ttt
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