Going Bigger Turbo....Any Suggestions?

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Old Jun 22, 2010 | 06:13 PM
  #106  
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Originally Posted by spinplay01
when i dremel the heads, i start with a carbide bit, then sanding barrel, then fine sanding, then light polish. It is actually smoother than the casting marks left in the rest of the head's combustion chamber. I questioned it myself, but 3 different tuners have told me that they didnt see any type of knock issue while adding timing.

have any before and after pics?

i'd love to see that
Old Jun 22, 2010 | 06:21 PM
  #107  
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factory EJ255 head
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2.0 head after a little dremel work, not completed
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bad angle on the 2nd picture, but trust me....it's almost the same
Old Jun 22, 2010 | 06:26 PM
  #108  
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can you please post some pics of the heads after the completed dremmel work?
Old Jun 22, 2010 | 06:28 PM
  #109  
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that is the only picture that i have.
Old Jun 22, 2010 | 06:35 PM
  #110  
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it isnt cleaned or polished yet in that picture,but you can see the general idea...looks 95% the same as the professional CNC job. the curve just isnt as perfectly smooth.
Old Jun 22, 2010 | 06:36 PM
  #111  
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Yeah there really is no comparison.

the pics speak for themselves.

EQ tuning heads:




VS:





yeah, the prices arent the same, but in this case i guess you get what you pay for.
Old Jun 22, 2010 | 06:52 PM
  #112  
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It doesnt look as pretty, but as far as performance, is it really worth all that money for the probable and likely 5hp gain over a dremel job?

If money is not an issue, sure go for the CNC job. It is better no doubt.

Dremel work it isnt a job for the artistically challenged, but if you can draw or sculpt it's kinda the same idea. It is just recreating what you see or invision.

Last edited by spinplay01; Jun 22, 2010 at 07:00 PM.
Old Jun 22, 2010 | 06:59 PM
  #113  
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i think the peace of mind knowing you have consistent compression ratios across the board speaks volumes for the CNC job. not to mention the proper quench, and combustion volumes. oh and having even pressures on the headgasket in each cylinder is nice too. so yeah.

taking a dremmel to your heads is about as redneck / ghetto as you can get.
Old Jun 22, 2010 | 07:12 PM
  #114  
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Originally Posted by BugeyeMilo
i think the peace of mind knowing you have consistent compression ratios across the board speaks volumes for the CNC job. not to mention the proper quench, and combustion volumes. oh and having even pressures on the headgasket in each cylinder is nice too. so yeah.

taking a dremmel to your heads is about as redneck / ghetto as you can get.

haha. i am redneck/ghetto.

but i bet there is less than .25cc variation between all the cylinders. Changing one of your spark plugs to one 3mm longer will make a bigger difference.

I have personally assembled over 100 engines, no, i wouldnt eyeball it and guess on bearing clerances, head bolt torque, or gear lash. but this is one area that it really makes a very minor difference.

the subaru ecu is very intuitive and addaptive, I doubt it minds the .25cc difference.

for example, if you blow a headgasket and machine just one head like .012 inch. it will learn it and run just fine.
Old Jun 22, 2010 | 08:06 PM
  #115  
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Will I need to CNC if I buy these Heads....

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...#ht_500wt_1182
Old Jun 22, 2010 | 08:10 PM
  #116  
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I think those are NA heads..... Subaru NA DOHC heads were never known to flow well from what I remember. Those are most likely the heads found on the phase 1 DOHC EJ251.
Old Jun 22, 2010 | 08:22 PM
  #117  
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what he said ^

i'd avoid 2.5 NA heads Lorenzo.

just pick up a set of 2.0 heads, have them properly machined, throw in some STi cams and call it a day
Old Jun 22, 2010 | 08:24 PM
  #118  
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Originally Posted by Jrocko
Will I need to CNC if I buy these Heads....

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...#ht_500wt_1182
i have never researched or messed with those heads.

i would imagine that they have a large quinch area and possibly smaller chamber.

that would be great if you re running low boost and want quick spool. but if you are going for more top end power, not so much.

I have read that those heads flow better than the usdm wrx heads though.

but i dont think that your intake/ tgv bodies will bolt up to those heads.

ask if they are phase 1 or 2.


or at least get some more pics from multiple angles
Old Jun 22, 2010 | 08:40 PM
  #119  
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Originally Posted by shaggadelic
the difference is realiabilty. how long will the stock block last? no matter who your tuner is they can help make it religable but not bullet proof! if any tuner was ever to tell you that they can make you car so it dont blow up is BS and you would be a fool to listen to them...... thats why building is the better way to go. its "less likely" to have things go wrong under extreme conditions.
Absolutely truth. I did what I did knowing that 99% of the time I drive like a grandma. I wanted that 1% to be lots of fun and was willing to risk it. 15k miles and counting so not too shabby! 110k total.

Originally Posted by Jrocko
yes this is true...But what you don't understand is if we were racing my tq would be crazy. 2.5L block adds more tq and not so much Hp.

Not bashing on Krang- but he has 274 tq and I have 331 tq....331tq FTW
Just saying
This is it. Besides, drop in pistons don't increase power. They increase reliability. With the difference in turbo size, it's understandable. Also, the dyno at RADS doesn't load very well. I've noticed that spool especially isn't correct most of the time. His setup is spooling near 3500, mine spools at 4200. an extra 1k rpm of power is worth it. Like he said, my turbo is roughly 2lb/min larger compressor. Also, TD05 exhaust housing vs 7cm^2. I still thought it would make 340, but like he said, Chris tunes conservatively.
Old Jun 22, 2010 | 08:44 PM
  #120  
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Originally Posted by spinplay01
haha. i am redneck/ghetto.

I thought you wore slacks!

lol



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