springs or performance?
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Posts: 18,369
From: Reno, NV
Car Info: 1993/2000/2001 GF4 mostly red
Originally posted by Swano
I do not share your point of vue on this one.
You suggest a pulley wich will show very little but think a flywheel is not a good thing on a close to stock car...
Think about it, 4 pound reductionvery close to the crank or 10+ pounds reduction quite farther....
The flywheel is one of the best mod you can do. You will get your power faster and you will really shine getting out of corners.
My car now respond to the throtle at 3250rpm like it used to at 4000rpm.
Expensive?? Well find a couple of friends and do the labor yourself!
Phil =)
I do not share your point of vue on this one.
You suggest a pulley wich will show very little but think a flywheel is not a good thing on a close to stock car...
Think about it, 4 pound reductionvery close to the crank or 10+ pounds reduction quite farther....
The flywheel is one of the best mod you can do. You will get your power faster and you will really shine getting out of corners.
My car now respond to the throtle at 3250rpm like it used to at 4000rpm.
Expensive?? Well find a couple of friends and do the labor yourself!
Phil =)
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iTrader: (12)
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 18,369
From: Reno, NV
Car Info: 1993/2000/2001 GF4 mostly red
Originally posted by awns729
if you had a few mods like a catback, pulleys, silencer, wheels, etc...what mods on an n/a car would have better immediate value?
if you had a few mods like a catback, pulleys, silencer, wheels, etc...what mods on an n/a car would have better immediate value?
Once you get past those basic mods you listed, things start getting more expensive. Headers and a high-flow cat work well with an EJ25. You can get up over 190 hp at the crank with just bolt-ons, and adding cams will put you over 200. Before you get there though, you should invest the time toreally learn how your car handles, and decide what characteristics you like and what you want to change. For most people, this means a larger rear sway bar, solid endlinks, struts and springs, steering rack bushings, maybe strut tops. Camber kits are popular too. Just remember, the basic rule of thumb is, it's a very good idea to spend equally on brakes, suspension, and engine mods.
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Of course it's more expensive, but if you want to play, you gotta pay.
Seriously, the fist mod you should do is the guy behind the wheel... that's what will give you the best bang for the bucks.
After that, mod what you fell is lacking.
Just don't base your mod pathern stricly on what you read on the web... Go to some local meetings and talk to the guys there, some might even let you try their car so you can judge by yourself the benefit of each modification.
Have fun and beware of the mod madness.... once you start you never know when it'll stop!
Phil =)
Seriously, the fist mod you should do is the guy behind the wheel... that's what will give you the best bang for the bucks.
After that, mod what you fell is lacking.
Just don't base your mod pathern stricly on what you read on the web... Go to some local meetings and talk to the guys there, some might even let you try their car so you can judge by yourself the benefit of each modification.
Have fun and beware of the mod madness.... once you start you never know when it'll stop!
Phil =)
Registered User
iTrader: (12)
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 18,369
From: Reno, NV
Car Info: 1993/2000/2001 GF4 mostly red
Originally posted by Swano
Seriously, the fist mod you should do is the guy behind the wheel... that's what will give you the best bang for the bucks.
After that, mod what you fell is lacking.
Just don't base your mod pathern stricly on what you read on the web... Go to some local meetings and talk to the guys there, some might even let you try their car so you can judge by yourself the benefit of each modification.
Seriously, the fist mod you should do is the guy behind the wheel... that's what will give you the best bang for the bucks.
After that, mod what you fell is lacking.
Just don't base your mod pathern stricly on what you read on the web... Go to some local meetings and talk to the guys there, some might even let you try their car so you can judge by yourself the benefit of each modification.
I also drive a 2.5RS and have both intake and Eibach Pro-Kit springs....I just got them on today and I'm really happy with them. I have 17's and my wheel gap was HUGE, even after i got rid of the low profile tires and went back to stock 55's on 17's. It made it look a whole lot better and reduced body roll. It's raining today so i couldn't really feel them out to much but so far so good. As for the intake i have a no name brand and I HATE it. It's all noise no power. I'm ordering a COBB intake soon and if you've got the money i would highly recomend them. But as for which to get, my personal prefrance would be the intake. Our cars. lets face it, aren't that fast stock. A good intake will help a lot and i think its a more necessary mod for 2.5's.The car handles great stock and in my opinion dropping it could wait.
Fix what needs fixin first.
Fix what needs fixin first.
Springs are performance. I'd do a rear swaybar first, I recommend 18mm w/ endlinks. I'm all about handling. A 2.5RS won't be fast in a straight line without a significant amount of money, but it can handle real well for pretty cheap. I'd do swaybar, short throw, strut bars, and springs first. Then do intake/exhaust. The extra kick in a straight line is fun but there is nothing like the look on a passenger's face when you don't have to brake for a tight turn. I've got an 18mm FHI, Cusco Strut bars, Prodrive P1s, Cobb intake, and Greddy exhaust if you have any questions.
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