running lean?
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Joined: May 2003
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From: Bay Area
Car Info: 2005 Legacy GT MT
running lean?
At what point in NA tuning would you consider it time for Reprogamming the ECU to avoid running lean? Lets assume the intake you are using is a Cobb intake. Lets also assume that the car uses MAP as opposed to MAF.
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i assume your car is a my00-up? if thats the case they tend to run rich with intakes. all exept ganz-flow types. you should be fine unless you do head work or juice. you could get the ecu reprogrammed to lean out alittle and rv out later(higher rpm's)
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Joined: May 2003
Posts: 37
From: Bay Area
Car Info: 2005 Legacy GT MT
I was reading this article that was saying that when you put on your intake you should disconnect your battery and then reconnect it once the new intake is on. Apparently this will retrain your ECU for the proper fuel/air ratios.
Registered User
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 221
From: Bay Area, CA
Car Info: '05 LGT
You should reset the ECU when doing most mods to your stock car. All it is is pulling the negative battery cable pumping the brakes and holding for 15 secs. Then letting it sit for 30 mins.
It just resets the ECU back to factory settings then relearns on it's own with your driving style.
It just resets the ECU back to factory settings then relearns on it's own with your driving style.
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Ok, I've heard of resetting the ECU which is a good idea with ANY power mod, BUT, why would you pump the brakes? I've never heard of anyone doing that as part of a reset and also, I heard you can damage the power brakes/brake booster if you press the brake pedal without the engine running as it cannot pull the air it needs if the engine is not pulling air. Just a precautionary thought.
The best way to reset is pull the neg. batt. plug (or both) and then you are supposed to start it cold. Not just let it sit for a half hour, you want the entire engine to be cool to the touch before starting. When you do the first cold start DO NOT touch the gas pedal, AT ALL! Just let it rev up high like normal when it first starts then you need to let it warm up on its own, all the way (or as close as possible) to your normal operating temp. Be sure not to touch the gas, ever, during this time, then after it's warm, turn it off, then back on again and go for about a 15-20min drive. Harder driving tunes for more agressive fuel maps and vice versa. Now your ECU will relearn to your style of driving.
The best way to reset is pull the neg. batt. plug (or both) and then you are supposed to start it cold. Not just let it sit for a half hour, you want the entire engine to be cool to the touch before starting. When you do the first cold start DO NOT touch the gas pedal, AT ALL! Just let it rev up high like normal when it first starts then you need to let it warm up on its own, all the way (or as close as possible) to your normal operating temp. Be sure not to touch the gas, ever, during this time, then after it's warm, turn it off, then back on again and go for about a 15-20min drive. Harder driving tunes for more agressive fuel maps and vice versa. Now your ECU will relearn to your style of driving.
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Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 221
From: Bay Area, CA
Car Info: '05 LGT
The brake thing was the way it was told to me a few years ago. It's supposed to drain any remaining juice out of the system. Not sure how though, other than the brake light swiitch. I also turn my lights on but that's just me.
You cannot damage the vacuum booster by pushing the brakes with the engine off as it simply won't operate without vacuum. Also considering it's a part of the diagnosis of the brake system it should be okay.
Thanks for the better explanation of the relearn procedure.
You cannot damage the vacuum booster by pushing the brakes with the engine off as it simply won't operate without vacuum. Also considering it's a part of the diagnosis of the brake system it should be okay.
Thanks for the better explanation of the relearn procedure.
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Oh, well that makes sense. I would have thought that newer cars would have some type of safety to keep the booster from being damaged without the car on. People do that so much just on accident anyway, but on the older Japanese cars (~75-89ish..?) with earlier power braking systems had warnings about pressing the brake pedal with the car off and risking damage to the vaccum booster, among other parts.
I thought that way to do a reset was the best way, too. I got those instructions from scoobymods.com, in case you're interested.
I thought that way to do a reset was the best way, too. I got those instructions from scoobymods.com, in case you're interested.
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ECU
I work at a dealership selling chevys. My impreza has the Clarion cd player and the optional alarm system, how are these components going to react after I disconect the battery. The reason I ask this is chevys have a theft deturant system that requires a four digit number to be entered into the radio when the battery is disconected. Also, does this alarm system do the same thing?
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From: Bay Area, CA
Car Info: '05 LGT
Re: ECU
Originally posted by Whitey
I work at a dealership selling chevys. My impreza has the Clarion cd player and the optional alarm system, how are these components going to react after I disconect the battery. The reason I ask this is chevys have a theft deturant system that requires a four digit number to be entered into the radio when the battery is disconected. Also, does this alarm system do the same thing?
I work at a dealership selling chevys. My impreza has the Clarion cd player and the optional alarm system, how are these components going to react after I disconect the battery. The reason I ask this is chevys have a theft deturant system that requires a four digit number to be entered into the radio when the battery is disconected. Also, does this alarm system do the same thing?
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