cobb street performer cams
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Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 49
From: maryland
Car Info: 99 2.5 rs
cobb street performer cams
alright im highly interested in buying these cams, but i was wondering if thats getting put in should i may as well do the valve springs and retainers.. and what would be a good company to order these springs and retainers....
yup, thanx, oh yeah 99 RS
yup, thanx, oh yeah 99 RS
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From: Reno, NV
Car Info: 1993/2000/2001 GF4 mostly red
You need to go straight to Cobb I think. www.cobbtuning.com
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it all depends on if you want to spend the money and like to sit close to the redline. there's no real power up there so there's no need to be there.
it takes quite a bit of work (and money) to NEED valves and springs. just consider how far you're going to go with that engine. are you really going to stick with the stock motor or plan to swap in the future? are you going to add enough hp to have it worthwhile to raise the redline? (and IIRC, the street cams dont have the profile for a higher redline and thats why they don't include the valves and/or springs in the stage 1 setup)
stock springs and valves should hold up to 7k but, dont test that theory. i imagine that they can withstand bouncing off it since it's uncommon but, not impossible for somebody to miss 4th and hit 2nd at WOT.
this is my .02 take it anyway you like
it takes quite a bit of work (and money) to NEED valves and springs. just consider how far you're going to go with that engine. are you really going to stick with the stock motor or plan to swap in the future? are you going to add enough hp to have it worthwhile to raise the redline? (and IIRC, the street cams dont have the profile for a higher redline and thats why they don't include the valves and/or springs in the stage 1 setup)
stock springs and valves should hold up to 7k but, dont test that theory. i imagine that they can withstand bouncing off it since it's uncommon but, not impossible for somebody to miss 4th and hit 2nd at WOT.
this is my .02 take it anyway you like
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Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 49
From: maryland
Car Info: 99 2.5 rs
yeah i guess ill just get the cams and possibly do the springs some other time, cause i dont have that kind of money to buy that **** all at once, the cams and gettin them installed is enough, i found a sube dealership that will do it for 420$$$$, but i guess thats resonable. just when it comes time to start rebuilding things ill do that spring job cause it still has farly low mileage on it.
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you could probably get a busted block from a wrecking yard for about 800 or even less. then there's no worries on core charges or down time cuz you could just yank what you need from it. i think doing that is for impatient people like me though.
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From: Reno, NV
Car Info: 1993/2000/2001 GF4 mostly red
Yeah I was hoping to find some older EJ series cams when I was planning on doing them, but couldn't find any. And buying a short block, evenblown, isn't really cheaper than loaning Cobb the core charge. The good part would be having the stock cams around to sell or keep around 'just in case.'
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Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 527
From: Glen Rock, PA
Car Info: 95 Impreza coup, green, 5speed 1.8l awd
http://www.paeco.com/
just looking around for cams too and these people must specialize in automotive machining
but I dont know how good they are or much about them, they are cheap though compared to cobb or TWE
Im going to have my cams ground to my specs from them(with spring and retainers) but I dont know what I want
intake .500" exhaust .450" 220 degrees
but im just guessing maybe less duration because of increased lift
just looking around for cams too and these people must specialize in automotive machining
but I dont know how good they are or much about them, they are cheap though compared to cobb or TWE
Im going to have my cams ground to my specs from them(with spring and retainers) but I dont know what I want
intake .500" exhaust .450" 220 degrees
but im just guessing maybe less duration because of increased lift
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From: Reno, NV
Car Info: 1993/2000/2001 GF4 mostly red
More duration for NA, less for turbo. More or less. More lift is generally good for performance, as long as the lobes don't get so steep your valves go ballistic. (literally, meaning the valve stem loses contact with the cam lobe)
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Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 527
From: Glen Rock, PA
Car Info: 95 Impreza coup, green, 5speed 1.8l awd
do you think that my lift is too high?
but my duration is about as far is I want to go because I want my car to stay idealing when it is cold
(my brother mustang comes to mind but must have alot more than 220maybe it was 230-240 but he couldnt keep it running when cold)
but my duration is about as far is I want to go because I want my car to stay idealing when it is cold
(my brother mustang comes to mind but must have alot more than 220maybe it was 230-240 but he couldnt keep it running when cold)
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From: Reno, NV
Car Info: 1993/2000/2001 GF4 mostly red
Cams are kind of a hit-and-miss deal. You might be real close to the best grind for what you want, but it seems there is always room for improvement. If you only get one shot, I wouldn't stray too far from the spec of another cam with characteristics you like.
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