wrx running lean...
I'm almost positive the dealer or any tuner can. I know there were detonation issues with some of the earlier US WRX's and the dealers were reflashing the ecu's to fix the problem. Call a local dealer, tell them the problem and see if they can reflash it back to the OE map.
Check this out http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=671294
Check this out http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=671294
Last edited by MO REX; Apr 28, 2007 at 11:57 PM.
Thread Starter
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Posts: 182
From: Hawaii
Car Info: 2014 Mitsubishi EVO MR/2014 Wrx
ok car runs a lot better after the fuel filter.... but it still happens only at wot, and MO REX if u remember i had the boost problem i got the new solenoid from the dealer and it still does the same thing ive replaced all the hoses with new stock ones and everything could the boost problem be with the ecu? cuz i know the cobb ap controls that solenoid... i called the dealer and they said they can re-flash my ecu... it cost about a 100bux should i just do it to do it?
I just scanned our discussion on the spike issue and yes I do remember. Sorry to see the problem hasn't gone away. Did you buy the car from a Subaru dealer? If you did (I think you did) tell them in a nice way that they need to reflash it for free or at least figure out what's going on since they sold you a defective car. Are you positive the original owner put the OE injectors back in?
It's not easy to diagnose a problem over the Internet and I'd hate to tell you to spend $100 without knowing it will work. That's why I usually look for cheap ways to figure these things out.
If it was my car and the dealer wouldn't help me out I'd make 100% sure the injectors were not aftermarket or modded OE injectors. When I knew I had the OE injectors I would go out and buy an AP. If the AP wouldn't install because another AP was already married to the ecu I'd take it from there. This is just what I'd do since I would eventually buy an AP anyway.
If you're trying to troubleshoot it on your own you have to risk spending $ on things that might not work. I have to work and go to school at night tomorrow but I'll try to give my mechanic a call and see what he thinks would be the best way to figure this out.
I'll definitely get back to you within the next 2 days and I'll try my best to do it tomorrow.
It's not easy to diagnose a problem over the Internet and I'd hate to tell you to spend $100 without knowing it will work. That's why I usually look for cheap ways to figure these things out.
If it was my car and the dealer wouldn't help me out I'd make 100% sure the injectors were not aftermarket or modded OE injectors. When I knew I had the OE injectors I would go out and buy an AP. If the AP wouldn't install because another AP was already married to the ecu I'd take it from there. This is just what I'd do since I would eventually buy an AP anyway.
If you're trying to troubleshoot it on your own you have to risk spending $ on things that might not work. I have to work and go to school at night tomorrow but I'll try to give my mechanic a call and see what he thinks would be the best way to figure this out.
I'll definitely get back to you within the next 2 days and I'll try my best to do it tomorrow.
One more thing.
I really think you're experiencing the OL/CL transition problem discussed in the last link I provided and the AP would take care of it but since there are so many unknowns it's kind of hard to know for sure.
I really think you're experiencing the OL/CL transition problem discussed in the last link I provided and the AP would take care of it but since there are so many unknowns it's kind of hard to know for sure.
Thread Starter
Registered User
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 182
From: Hawaii
Car Info: 2014 Mitsubishi EVO MR/2014 Wrx
i ended up just using the homemade mbc but im only running 9psi... when i go to work i have to climb a hill and the stock fbc is so messed up that it would overboost just trying to get up and i would have to go really slow so i just ran the mbc
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