What MODS next?
Guest
Posts: n/a
What MODS next?
I have a UTEC stage 1, GFB BOV, and K&N filter. What would be the next mod that would give me the biggest bang for my buck. I am thinking Catback Exhaust or maybe uppipe and downpipe with stock exhaust. I need opinions here. What would be the best exhaust, uppipe, downpipe for my current set up?
Another question. Would anyone have a UTEC Map for my set up? It is pretty much stock, I would think. What kind of tuning has anyone done to their Stock (Stage 1) to give a little more power and torque. All of the tuners in the Cleveland area don't know much about WRX's and will not tune my car. Can anyone please help. Thanks.
Another question. Would anyone have a UTEC Map for my set up? It is pretty much stock, I would think. What kind of tuning has anyone done to their Stock (Stage 1) to give a little more power and torque. All of the tuners in the Cleveland area don't know much about WRX's and will not tune my car. Can anyone please help. Thanks.
Registered User
iTrader: (12)
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 18,369
From: Reno, NV
Car Info: 1993/2000/2001 GF4 mostly red
The UTEC doesn't haev a whole lot to work with on basically a stock car. Get and uppipe, downpipe, and exhaust, retune, and you'll be amazed.
S-Squared Motorsports sells an excellent uppipe with EGT bung, flex joint and heat shield for $225.
Replacing your downpipe is necessary due to the horrible flange design of the stock piece. However, finding one with a high-flow cat is difficult and expensive. Catless downpipes are illegal in all 50 states. The only reason to go with a catless one is because you need to run leaded race gas due to humongous power needs.
Any 2.5"-3" catback exhaust will do the trick as long as it has a straight-through type muffler. Anything from $300 custom with a Magnaflow muffler up to Vichnu's $1200 all-stainless unit do about the same thing. Choose mostly based on the sound and look you want.
And that's about it for now. Get that stuff, find a good tuner, and you will be very pleased. For a while.
S-Squared Motorsports sells an excellent uppipe with EGT bung, flex joint and heat shield for $225.
Replacing your downpipe is necessary due to the horrible flange design of the stock piece. However, finding one with a high-flow cat is difficult and expensive. Catless downpipes are illegal in all 50 states. The only reason to go with a catless one is because you need to run leaded race gas due to humongous power needs.
Any 2.5"-3" catback exhaust will do the trick as long as it has a straight-through type muffler. Anything from $300 custom with a Magnaflow muffler up to Vichnu's $1200 all-stainless unit do about the same thing. Choose mostly based on the sound and look you want.
And that's about it for now. Get that stuff, find a good tuner, and you will be very pleased. For a while.
Guest
Posts: n/a
Another Question
Does anyone have a Utec (Stage 1) with a stock WRX. If so what kind of HP gains should I expect? Is anyone satisfied with the Stage 1? I have had it in for a week and it pretty much sucks unless I get it tuned or tune it myself. So far everyone is saying that I need to buy up-pipe down-pipe. I really would only consider getting a catback exhaust. Does anyone know of anybody in OHIO that would be interested in tuning this car. I need to do something quick, before I just sell the damn thing, (the utec that is). So, I can not get 30-40 HP with a stage 1 like TXS claims, without buying an exhaust? If so that is some deceptive advertising. Can someone please tell me that they love their UTEC stage 1 and it is worth it. Thanks.
Registered User
iTrader: (12)
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 18,369
From: Reno, NV
Car Info: 1993/2000/2001 GF4 mostly red
Try posting in your regional forum. that's why they are there- to provide a place for people to share info like that. We can give you technical advice and answers, but only locals can tell you where to get struts installed or an alignnment done or where to get high octane.
Guest
Posts: n/a
Ok, how about this.
Can anyone with the Stage 1 (stock) setup, tell me what numbers they are running. with respect to timing, fuel, ok everything tunable. I would assume that you don't want to blow your car up, so I am sure that I could tweek the numbers a bit and notice a change. I am just looking for a starting point. What limitations in tunable variable should I consider. Kind of like "set your timing between X and XX, but do not exceed xxx. somthing like that. I am just looking for some guide lines that others have used to tune their car. I know that if my the knock sensor goes off to add fuel or retard timing some. With out getting to that point, I would just like to know what setups you are using. Thanks
Registered User
iTrader: (12)
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 18,369
From: Reno, NV
Car Info: 1993/2000/2001 GF4 mostly red
To be honest, I would suggest reading the manual and tweaking it (slowly) yourself. If it is running really well, no hiccups or bogging, the hard part is done. Now you can tweak it by bumping a little bit of advance 1 or 2 degrees at a time, cutting just a little bit of fuel there, adding just a little there... just be careful. If the UTEC doesn't do it, I'd recommend getting a J&S Safeguard.
Last edited by Kevin M; Jul 27, 2003 at 06:53 PM.
Guest
Posts: n/a
J&S Safeguard?
What is a J&S Safeguard? I am new at this and very impatient. That is a bad mix, but I am willing to learn. I just don't want to try something myself and destroy the motor and realize that I was a complete idiot for doing that. I am planning on performing future mods, like exhaust and bigger intercooler, but for now I just wanted to get 30-40 more HP with the flexibility more future mods. ANyway, Thanks for the help, I am going to do a little tweeking soon.
What setup do you have?
What setup do you have?
Registered User
iTrader: (12)
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 18,369
From: Reno, NV
Car Info: 1993/2000/2001 GF4 mostly red
A J&S Safeguard uses a very good knock sensor to monitor the engine and retard timing if needed. The best part is that it tells you when it is, so you can tweak that part of the map to get rid of it, instead of constantly just relying on the J&S. It's good to have, I plan to use one. Right now, my "setup" is an '01 RS with intake and full exhaust.
As for your next mods, go with the up and down pipes and catback, but don't worry about your intercooler yet. It's got plenty of room to grow for now.
As for your next mods, go with the up and down pipes and catback, but don't worry about your intercooler yet. It's got plenty of room to grow for now.
Registered User
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 201
From: Somerville MASS
FIrst things first, Get an up pipe.
Then a full turbo back exh.
TurboXS stealthback, with a high flow cat is available for under 700, and is VERY stealth, as you use your stock muffler.
I paid 590 for mine, because I choose to go completly catless and free up every HP I can.
Up pipe should be the very first mod you do power wise.
Then a full turbo back exh.
TurboXS stealthback, with a high flow cat is available for under 700, and is VERY stealth, as you use your stock muffler.
I paid 590 for mine, because I choose to go completly catless and free up every HP I can.
Up pipe should be the very first mod you do power wise.
Guest
Posts: n/a
I'M RUNNING A 2004 WITH A GODSPEED UP AND DOWNPIPE SYSTEM, GREDDY EVO CAT-BACK, K&N PANEL FILTER, AND A TURBO-XS UTEC WITH STAGE II PROGRAM, CONTROLLED BY REMOTE SWITCH IN DASH. DYNO TUNED AT GODSPEED, 220WHP AND 223FT/LBS OF TORQUE PRIOR TO THE GREDDY SYSTEM. THIS SHOULD GIVE ANOTHER 10+HP. DAN AT GODSPEED IS VERY GOOD AT THIS SETUP AND TUNE. CHECKOUT HIS WEBSITE WWW.GODSPEEDINC.COM.. ENJOY THE RUSH....
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
BoxerRumble
Engine/Power - EJ20T (pre-2006 WRX and JDM)
5
Sep 15, 2004 08:50 AM
1/500yellowwrx
Engine/Power - EJ20T (pre-2006 WRX and JDM)
22
Mar 1, 2004 06:59 PM
turborambler
Engine/Power - EJ20T (pre-2006 WRX and JDM)
2
Feb 28, 2003 07:19 AM