Hey guys,

From what I have seen, and I have been in a few autoshop classes, gone to seminars, and worked in auto performance places, and if you run a ohm test on your negative battery pole and put the other side to any ground, if there is more than .5 ohms resistance there, then and only then is there a call for more grounding. In a stock WRX or subaru I haven't seen it but I will do my car when I get home today.

Austin

 

If any one thinks they got a little more horse power or smoother throttle from their grounding kit then maybe your car have a grounding problem. After reading all these positive threads about the grounding kits, I went out and purchased a $100 HKS kit. That was one of the stupidest mod I have ever done, not only I didn't feel any difference on the car, I wasted $100, could of gone to the strip club and got 3 lap dances and that I can tell you will make a difference on my horse power...

 

Uhhhh...hmmmm. Maybe you should practice what you preach. HP = (I*E*%eff) \ 746 ring any bells? Or maybe 1hp equals about 746W/M? An alternator is in essence a DC motor. Yes it's current potential is static(at a given RPM), but it's voltage driven device. A regulator is used to control how much of a drop is seen on the diode bridge, which in turn shows a drop across the coils on the stator. If you pass an open ended coil across the magnet there will be no attraction(aside from the normal magnetic attraction). The greater the load on the coil, the greater the force that is needed to move the coil across the magnet . In an alternator, the greater the voltage difference between poles(the bigger the load) the more current will flow, and the more work the alternator must do. The faster the coils are passed across the magnets, the more potential the alternator has. So with your theories an alternator magically takes this rotation with no parasitic loss and makes energy? And it's RPM independent? Hmmmmm wonder why the voltage tends to sag at idle. Too bad your theories aren't correct, that would be cool, a never ending source of energy.

You shouldn't be so fast to pounce on people when you in fact don't have all of your ducks in a row, so to speak.

 

Because I always run at 40 mph in 5th. Wait, this car has a fifth gear? This thread is turning into the kind that we all laugh at, and sigma pi nailed it early on. At least, I hope he was joking...

"After reading all these positive threads about the grounding kits, I went out and purchased a $100 HKS kit. That was one of the stupidest mod I have ever done, not only I didn't feel any difference on the car, I wasted $100, could of gone to the strip club and got 3 lap dances and that I can tell you will make a difference on my horse power..."

Further proving the point: it works for some, not for others. The science of how good the end of a nasty curve feels at WOT is not as simple as Ohm's law and efficiency of elec generators.

 

Saying that a ground is a ground is just as dumb as saying a DIY kit cant compare to the big name ones. Different types of materials put together using different methods have very different electrical flow characteristics. I worked professionally in the home theater field for many years and I would always get those "electrical engineers" telling me that "cables theoretically cant make a difference" those same engineers were usually 60+ years old, using a 1982 Marantz Stereo reciever and a set of 12" cerwin vegas, because it sounds "just as good as the new fancy expensive stuff". Electrical current travels smoother with less drop on the surfaces of conductors, that is why you can get a 16 gauge speaker cable that has thousands of tiny hair like strands that has twice the performance then a cable over 3 times its size. What you CAN say is electrical flow is electrical flow. The more effecient and cleaner the flow, the better performance you WILL get.

Now with that being said im not saying these kits will make a difference im only commenting on the idea that there can be a difference between the kits.

_justin

 

this is silly, illusion is right, grounding kits are good, its not like a type-R badge, its actualy doing somthing, less interference, lower ground resistance due to thicker cables and less distance for current to flow (metal has its own resistance, less wire or distance, less resistance) , without a doubt frees up horsepower, screw dyno results, they cant reliably measure somthing that small, but i garuntee you there is SOMTHING happening, especaly in an older car with ****ty wiring, BIG difference, and a DIY kit will do just fine if your connections are made properly in the proper places with a good guage wire, hell it will even benefit on a newer car, not as much, but there will be significantly less noise in your electrical system and less load on your alternator and goodies like that which will free up some horsies....its silly to say a mod thats so electricaly drastic makes no difference, plus, those people with 128 strand wire in the shape of a pyramid pointing to venus ARE electrical engineers trying to win an audio competition, where using the "proper" wire just wont cut it anymore, thats like racing with a stock motor...it just wont cut it if you wanna move up a class, so what do you do? anything you can to make it just a bit better..squeezing out just 1 more dB is worth it to them if they have to use insanely high tech wire, just like .01 more G's on the skidpad is worth it to a track attacker, that extra .01 can really drop lap times...

 

Questions for those with the DIY gounding kit.

- What are the sizes for the connectors? 10mm? 12mm?
- Any wire shield melting issue?
- From what I have read so far, just some 4 AWG low impedance, high strands (>700 strands) oxygen free, copper wires right?
- Sound like gold connector and solder (oxygen free) the connector to wire are definitly plus. Anything else?

thanks!

 

i'm getting this soon. a friend was having electrical problems on his sti while on dyno-tuning, thought it was kit. disconnected it, turns out it was something else. reconnected it, along with a 5hp increase.

 

I love it.