I'm having P1312 problems. I have a helix up, dp, cat-back, helix o2s fix, 22k ohm resistor fix and 12x1.25mm bolt welded in. It was ok for 5k miles, but now I'm getting the check engine light. I clear it (I work in a shop) and a few days later its back on. The resistor is mated into the cat temp sensors plug from the harness with the sensor cut off. NOT INLINE LIKE SUGGESTED EARLIER. Am I wrong. The resistor is measuring 21xxx Ohms when measured. Someone Please Let me know do these resistors go bad quickly is that what the 5 pack is for???? Any help or past experiances would be appreciated.

 

The correct value for the EGT resistor "fix" is 2.2K ohms, not 22K.
The usual method for connecting the resistor is to unplug the probe harness completely from the connector under the black cover (by the passenger strut tower, where the boost solenoid is), and insert the resistor directly into the female terminals of the mating connector. The whole thing can then be sealed up with electrical tape.

 

Well I screwed up the first time and had a 2.2 ohm resistor and it was instant check engine light. If I had the wrong one in it (22k vs.2.2k) shouldn't I have had celo before 5,000 miles??? Does any one know if this is the only way to set off this code i.e. IF you were to mess with the o2's could you also set off a p1312. I'm sort of wondering since I do have an A/F ratio gauge too. Can I get a programable computer to ignore certain codes or do they eliminate all check engine lamps?

 

Are there cars that can not be fixed with the resistor mod?

 

what wattage on the resistor? if you used a 1/4W, it probably opened up. use a 2.2k / 1/2W resistor and you should be OK.

 

1/2watt