Just installed an Uppipe, my advice....
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 55
From: NW Florida
Just installed an Uppipe, my advice....
I just installed a factory, gutted uppipe and wanted to give a few pointers and describe my experience to others who are thinking of doing it. I also took this time to remove the intake snorkus.
I got a factory, catted uppipe from west005 last week and finally got it gutted. HUGE PITA!! But, I now have the tools and knowlege to to it much quicker/easier. Anyome interested in getting one done, let me know. I will also have my old one for sale soon.
Anyway, I started this project with 2 of my friends, plenty of beer, and a 70% chance of rain. We followed the Perrin Uppie Installation Instructions w/ pictures link located here:
http://www.scoobymods.com/forums/sho...p?threadid=194
There are a few things that I had/decided to do differently:
1. First of all, before you even begin, goto your nearest WalMart or gun store and get a small can of "Break-Free". It is designed as a gun cleaning/lubricating fluid, and is the same one we use in the military to clean our weapons. I had just enough wd40 to spray 2 bolts. I didn't feel like running to the store, so I decided to try it. It worked miracles in the field, so why not here right? It took me longer to remove the 2 bolts I had sprayed with WD40 than it did to remove ALL the bolts I sprayed with BreakFree. I let all the bolts sit for approx 30 mins and the ones with break free practically fell off! Also, GET SOME CLEAR EYE PROTECTION!!! I had the equivelent of an entire dirt road dumped into my eyes yesterday! And no, tinted oakleys or any other sunglasses won't work. (tried it) It is too dark under the car to see with them on. Spend 3$ and save your vision.
2. You don't need to cut ANY of the heat shields if you are installing a factory, gutted, uppipe. However, be VERY careful removing/installing the heat shields. The bolts WILL break with VERY minimum pressure. Just snug them down and thats it.
3. You DO NOT need a O2 socket. We used a regular Craftsman wrench and sockets for this entire project. I believe the O2 sensor is a 7/8. With some minor manipulation of the heat shield, it comes off easily. Just be carefull not to Man Handle it too much and you won't damage it.
4. Once you have all the Heat Shields off, spray ALL the exhaust bolts (Where downpipe and uppipe connects to the turbo, where midpipe connects to cat back, ALL the manifold bolts, ALL the uppipe bolts) down liberally. Then step away and take a 30 minute break. I know, once I get started, I hate taking breaks too. But, the 30 mins you let it soak will be much quicker than if you decide to spray it then try to get them off immediately.
5. You don't need to "tap for an EGT sensor" as stated in the instructions if you have a factory, gutted uppipe. When you do get to the part where you remove the EGT sensor, just remove it and sit it aside. I will get to this later.
6. You DO NOT need to loosen the motor mounts and jack up the engine. It would probably make it easier if you are doing it alone, but if you have any help, don't bother with this step. With one person on the bottom and one underneath, the pipe can be removed with a little twisting and pulling/pushing. Just take a second to look at it from both angles and it isn't that hard to figure out.
7. Now about the EGT. What I did was cut off the long sensor probe part of it, and file the actual bolt part down till it was smooth. That way, it still looks stock, and you can still plug it in. No suspicion from the dealer this way, and you don't have to worry about the sensor probe breaking off in your turbo.
Also, on another subject, I removed the intake snorkus while I was doing all this. I found a pretty easy way to do this also. If you look under your front fender, ahead of you passenger side tire well, there is a removable plastic piece. The entire snorkus can be removed from this panel with the tire still on and the wheels turned straight. No need to remove the tire, or the plastic fender well, or even turn the wheels.
All in all, I definately recommend doing this yourself. Especially if you have really worked on your car much yourself. You will definately gain more knowledge of how your car, (and turbo cars in general), work. Just take your time and don't get frustrated. After all, we mod our cars for fun right!
I got a factory, catted uppipe from west005 last week and finally got it gutted. HUGE PITA!! But, I now have the tools and knowlege to to it much quicker/easier. Anyome interested in getting one done, let me know. I will also have my old one for sale soon.
Anyway, I started this project with 2 of my friends, plenty of beer, and a 70% chance of rain. We followed the Perrin Uppie Installation Instructions w/ pictures link located here:
http://www.scoobymods.com/forums/sho...p?threadid=194
There are a few things that I had/decided to do differently:
1. First of all, before you even begin, goto your nearest WalMart or gun store and get a small can of "Break-Free". It is designed as a gun cleaning/lubricating fluid, and is the same one we use in the military to clean our weapons. I had just enough wd40 to spray 2 bolts. I didn't feel like running to the store, so I decided to try it. It worked miracles in the field, so why not here right? It took me longer to remove the 2 bolts I had sprayed with WD40 than it did to remove ALL the bolts I sprayed with BreakFree. I let all the bolts sit for approx 30 mins and the ones with break free practically fell off! Also, GET SOME CLEAR EYE PROTECTION!!! I had the equivelent of an entire dirt road dumped into my eyes yesterday! And no, tinted oakleys or any other sunglasses won't work. (tried it) It is too dark under the car to see with them on. Spend 3$ and save your vision.
2. You don't need to cut ANY of the heat shields if you are installing a factory, gutted, uppipe. However, be VERY careful removing/installing the heat shields. The bolts WILL break with VERY minimum pressure. Just snug them down and thats it.
3. You DO NOT need a O2 socket. We used a regular Craftsman wrench and sockets for this entire project. I believe the O2 sensor is a 7/8. With some minor manipulation of the heat shield, it comes off easily. Just be carefull not to Man Handle it too much and you won't damage it.
4. Once you have all the Heat Shields off, spray ALL the exhaust bolts (Where downpipe and uppipe connects to the turbo, where midpipe connects to cat back, ALL the manifold bolts, ALL the uppipe bolts) down liberally. Then step away and take a 30 minute break. I know, once I get started, I hate taking breaks too. But, the 30 mins you let it soak will be much quicker than if you decide to spray it then try to get them off immediately.
5. You don't need to "tap for an EGT sensor" as stated in the instructions if you have a factory, gutted uppipe. When you do get to the part where you remove the EGT sensor, just remove it and sit it aside. I will get to this later.
6. You DO NOT need to loosen the motor mounts and jack up the engine. It would probably make it easier if you are doing it alone, but if you have any help, don't bother with this step. With one person on the bottom and one underneath, the pipe can be removed with a little twisting and pulling/pushing. Just take a second to look at it from both angles and it isn't that hard to figure out.
7. Now about the EGT. What I did was cut off the long sensor probe part of it, and file the actual bolt part down till it was smooth. That way, it still looks stock, and you can still plug it in. No suspicion from the dealer this way, and you don't have to worry about the sensor probe breaking off in your turbo.
Also, on another subject, I removed the intake snorkus while I was doing all this. I found a pretty easy way to do this also. If you look under your front fender, ahead of you passenger side tire well, there is a removable plastic piece. The entire snorkus can be removed from this panel with the tire still on and the wheels turned straight. No need to remove the tire, or the plastic fender well, or even turn the wheels.
All in all, I definately recommend doing this yourself. Especially if you have really worked on your car much yourself. You will definately gain more knowledge of how your car, (and turbo cars in general), work. Just take your time and don't get frustrated. After all, we mod our cars for fun right!
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Slack
Sacramento & Reno
2
Apr 18, 2005 04:29 PM
drew888
Engine Management
1
Feb 4, 2003 05:10 AM
spdkills
Engine/Power - EJ20T (pre-2006 WRX and JDM)
6
Dec 30, 2002 11:58 AM
