gutted uppipe EGT BUNG!
nope this is the actual plug under the hood. if you have the
02-03's its the little black black thing with the two clips on the passenger side. and its the very bottom plug.
merry christmas!
02-03's its the little black black thing with the two clips on the passenger side. and its the very bottom plug.
merry christmas!
the reason the stock EGT probe leaks is because of the probe it self extending into the exhaust stream, the pulsing causes the probe to walk back out.
Just get a bolt in the correct pitch, and use a coping saw and cut it.
Unplug the probe from under the black cover(02-03) and get a 2.2k resistor from radio shack. I find that the 1/4 watt fits the best, bend the legs on the resistor and jam it into the connection.
A little tape, and you're all set..
Tommy
www.mpjperformance.com
Just get a bolt in the correct pitch, and use a coping saw and cut it.
Unplug the probe from under the black cover(02-03) and get a 2.2k resistor from radio shack. I find that the 1/4 watt fits the best, bend the legs on the resistor and jam it into the connection.
A little tape, and you're all set..
Tommy
www.mpjperformance.com
VIP Member
iTrader: (9)
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 3,928
From: ...a craphole in No.County San Diego
Car Info: MMVI AW WRX STI
Check this thread out:
http://www.clubwrx.net/forums/showth...sistor+EGT+mod
Your probe will fail, with one of two codes...P1301 (Fire in the exhaust!
) or P1312 (EGT sensor malfunction). The former is limp mode, the latter is just the CEL.
I had a M12x1.25 bolt after much searching, but mine was also too long. Take a dremel cut off wheel to it, being a little careful to preserve the start of the threads...and make a shorter bolt! After I went into limp mode, I plugged the hole and did the fix and have had no problems since. I also used a bit of high temp thread locker to make sure it didn't back out.
http://www.clubwrx.net/forums/showth...sistor+EGT+mod
Your probe will fail, with one of two codes...P1301 (Fire in the exhaust!
) or P1312 (EGT sensor malfunction). The former is limp mode, the latter is just the CEL. I had a M12x1.25 bolt after much searching, but mine was also too long. Take a dremel cut off wheel to it, being a little careful to preserve the start of the threads...and make a shorter bolt! After I went into limp mode, I plugged the hole and did the fix and have had no problems since. I also used a bit of high temp thread locker to make sure it didn't back out.
Registered User
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 151
From: New Jersey
Car Info: 2007 Mazdaspeed 3, Black, 6spd
I'm having P1312 problems. I have a helix up, dp, cat-back, helix o2s fix, 22k ohm resistor fix and 12x1.25mm bolt welded in. It was ok for 5k miles, but now I'm getting the check engine light. I clear it (I work in a shop) and a few days later its back on. The resistor is mated into the cat temp sensors plug from the harness with the sensor cut off. NOT INLINE LIKE SUGGESTED EARLIER. Am I wrong. The resistor is measuring 21xxx Ohms when measured. Someone Please Let me know do these resistors go bad quickly is that what the 5 pack is for???? Any help or past experiances would be appreciated.
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