Gas Mileage
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From: How do you swap an RSTi?
Car Info: 2001 Impreza 2.5RS(Ti)
I got my personal best mpg on my last tank. I hit 19.3 I usually only get 16~17 I guess i drive pretty fast, but I did switch from Ctigo to Chevron. I also think I used my A/C less. My plan is to keep experimenting with different brands of gas while keeping all other variables constant.
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shell has been advertising that their new reformulated gas gives better gas mileage.. I've cited several MPG better after switching (and they're cool and have 94octane for when I'm feelin frisky
)
I typically got 22-23MPG after switching it's more like 25-26 I drive hard but living in NH there are few city areas and even a jont across town is long highway-esque road. I also almost never use my AC.
so suppose an average 3MPG increase with switching who wants to do the math of a cost benifit analysis... I'd do it but I'm too damn lazy
)I typically got 22-23MPG after switching it's more like 25-26 I drive hard but living in NH there are few city areas and even a jont across town is long highway-esque road. I also almost never use my AC.
so suppose an average 3MPG increase with switching who wants to do the math of a cost benifit analysis... I'd do it but I'm too damn lazy
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ok maybe I'm lazy but I'm also bored.... here's my math (please correct if anything is wrong)
assuming (the original assumption shouldn't change the outcome)
12.6 gallons at $1.60 per gallon is $20.16
at 22MPG you could travel 277.2 miles at a cost of aprox $0.073 per mile
at 25MPG you could travel 315.0 miles at a cost of aprox $0.064 per mile
so you get 37.8 more miles out of a tank x 0.073 is $2.75 more or $0.21 more per gallon for the shell and still break even...
so bottom line is if you get a 3MPG increse with shell over say mobil. Mobil is $1.60 and shell is $1.81 per gallon you'd break even cost wise and you'd still be better off with shell because you wont have to stop as often to get gas and time is money... (also this goes back to my earlier post about how you need to be as accurate as possible when calculating your MPG becuase slight fractions can make big changes in the outcome)
assuming (the original assumption shouldn't change the outcome)
12.6 gallons at $1.60 per gallon is $20.16
at 22MPG you could travel 277.2 miles at a cost of aprox $0.073 per mile
at 25MPG you could travel 315.0 miles at a cost of aprox $0.064 per mile
so you get 37.8 more miles out of a tank x 0.073 is $2.75 more or $0.21 more per gallon for the shell and still break even...
so bottom line is if you get a 3MPG increse with shell over say mobil. Mobil is $1.60 and shell is $1.81 per gallon you'd break even cost wise and you'd still be better off with shell because you wont have to stop as often to get gas and time is money... (also this goes back to my earlier post about how you need to be as accurate as possible when calculating your MPG becuase slight fractions can make big changes in the outcome)
Last edited by twistedsymphony; Jul 23, 2003 at 06:45 PM.
While we are on this topic, has anyone noticed that your gas gauge itself is LESS than accurate? Mine reads dead "E" with four gallons left in the tank, and the yellow light seems to come on whenever it feels like it during the last 1/4 tank.
I've never put more than 12.5 gallons in the tank since I've owned it, yet I run it down to "E" every time... I was rubbing my eyes when I read in the manual that it had a 16-gallon tank!
BTW, here in AZ we have to run the A/C 9 months out of 12; I've noticed a 3-5 MPG drop with the AC on (it may even be worse).
I've never put more than 12.5 gallons in the tank since I've owned it, yet I run it down to "E" every time... I was rubbing my eyes when I read in the manual that it had a 16-gallon tank!
BTW, here in AZ we have to run the A/C 9 months out of 12; I've noticed a 3-5 MPG drop with the AC on (it may even be worse).
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Originally posted by meilers
While we are on this topic, has anyone noticed that your gas gauge itself is LESS than accurate? Mine reads dead "E" with four gallons left in the tank, and the yellow light seems to come on whenever it feels like it during the last 1/4 tank.
I've never put more than 12.5 gallons in the tank since I've owned it, yet I run it down to "E" every time... I was rubbing my eyes when I read in the manual that it had a 16-gallon tank!
BTW, here in AZ we have to run the A/C 9 months out of 12; I've noticed a 3-5 MPG drop with the AC on (it may even be worse).
While we are on this topic, has anyone noticed that your gas gauge itself is LESS than accurate? Mine reads dead "E" with four gallons left in the tank, and the yellow light seems to come on whenever it feels like it during the last 1/4 tank.
I've never put more than 12.5 gallons in the tank since I've owned it, yet I run it down to "E" every time... I was rubbing my eyes when I read in the manual that it had a 16-gallon tank!
BTW, here in AZ we have to run the A/C 9 months out of 12; I've noticed a 3-5 MPG drop with the AC on (it may even be worse).
also there is a ghost 1/4 of a tank at the top... from my house to my GF's house is about 20miles I can make 2 trips there and back after filling up without the gas gauge leaving "F"... but one more trip and I'm down 1/4 tank
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It is because of the way the sensors work. They work on an arc. I had this problem on my car(but it is a 1965 dart gt) where the sensor they gave had too small of an arc so when it was at the top that was way past the extent of the sensor so it read full for a long time, same thing applies for the bottom, when you get to the bottom of the sensor you are not actually at empty. I have never looked at the sensor on a wrx but I would assume it is the same.
Stephen
Stephen
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