Dude, I'm surprised this even happened. It's broken for others apparently, but it seems an awfully weak point of failure.

Not in my favor is 130K on the chassis and turbo, but in it is that it's just a rubber hose attached to it for goodness sake

Car, so far as I understand, is out of commission til I get a new one in, and I'm just going that route - might see if someone can weld the old one back together after I take it off.

I'm getting a new turbo on altogether in a bit, so that addresses a well overdue rebuild need, but I need to get to work in the meantime still.

I'm just glad I noticed it when fixing a torn hose to it (the one right after the T-connector by the turbo compressor), and that it didn't happen on the road.

Tried zip tie splinting it in place and a few coats of super glue, no dice. I'll pick up some JB weld in the meantime maybe and see if that's a sturdier solution, as well a filing down the shaft a bit more to really sit inside the hole, not just at the surface. That's just a band aid solution though.

 

Guy I'm buying the new wastegate from suggested detaching the actuator arm, effectively bypassing boost and driving normally otherwise. Sound kosher?

 

Took the actuator arm off - the car's a different creature for it, but at least it runs.

New actuator came in today, will be putting it on after I take care of the rear window on my roommate's car. Got broken into last night

 

Sorry, just saw the post. who'd you get the wastegate from?

 

All good, I've been making it work in the meantime. Got it from vladi.

The adjustment screw is actually pretty well rusted in though, even post naval jelly and PB Blaster. Might let it soak in a PB bath overnight, see if that helps, and/or a flared 8mm wrench to really grip at it.

But as said roomie's window first in the meantime.


I got some JB Weld the last day or two at O'Reilly's - did I check out with you or was that someone else?

 

Don't remember. I think I walked in as you walked out. However worse comes to worse get one from Hayward over at ATP if they have something.

 

depending on how thick that sheet metal is, you might be able to drill it out a bit and tap it for a 1/8th npt barb.

 

It's not that thick, but there's the inner 'cup' part of the diaphragm in the way. I'll post what I've tried (and has not worked). I'm actually yet to take it to a vise and have at it that way (don't have one), but we'll see what that will do with the actuator I have that does work, but whose adjusting arm I found out was rusted shut. We shall see...