Scoobyvroom

Well I had the gas leak and the dealer didn't have any loaner cars. So I decided to fix it myself. While I had to get the inlet pipe out of there I decided to replace it with a Samco Induction pipe, and also I/C hoses. I got new clamps on the fuel lines and noticed the T in the compressor/WG/solenoid line was broken..

woops... So I took it and replaced it but it was so cold that it just kept breaking. I used a small screw driver to push the old piece out from the other end. Well I pushed the restrictor out as well..

Got the car together and presto .64bar O' boost. 7 psi ew..
pretty darn slow. So I came on here realized I was missing the restrictor. So I found it and put it in the tube that goes to the compressor from the T. This is right, right?

reset my ECu after putting in the I/C hoses in and intake pipe.

And vwala, 1.4 bar... Yes thats right darn near 20psi...

What is wrong with it now?? What am I missing the only other mod I have done is the 3/16th restrictor removal.

It's wierd too it seems like boost creep...

you floor it it goes like a BOOH (just over 1 bar) then boost drops down then a half second later spike to 1.47bar.

All I have is Injen CAI Samco induction pipe, and Samco I/C pipe.
I also have a Blitz FATT thats where I am getting my pressure reading from.

Any help would be appreciated..


Chris Johnson

sKOOTeR WRX

The 3/16ths mod from what I have read can cause boost spikes because the ecu has not learned how to respond to the larger piping.

But I am confused on your setup do you have the restrictor or have you removed it and put a larger tube connector in?

-skooter

Scoobyvroom

As far as the plastic straight through restrictor going from the T to the solenoid that was replaced with an 3/16 straight through...

Maybe I will switch back to the oem restrictor and see if that helps. I kind of thought about the ECU not being able to fully control the boost. But I mean if it can drop it to just under 1bar then raise it agian..
it is doing something..


Chris

TYIA

Scoobyvroom

GOD $%^#*


I hate the winter, I saved that restricotr so if I wanted to put it back in I could this is from 1.5 years ago... So I am like o.k.. I'll just go switch it.. I go out in the cold 0 degrees or so. Pull out connector and grab the restrictor, go to put it in and the thing breaks on me...

When I did the fuel lines I broke the nipple off the EGR solenoid.
and now I break this thing cas it's so damn cold..
ARGH!!!


I think if I get the next smallest hose than the 3/16th and put a reducer to that size then back up to the 3/16th you think it might work in place of the OEM one?? The hole looked to be a bit less than 1/8inch...

TYIA agian
Chris

sKOOTeR WRX

you should be able to buy the restrictor from any auto parts store.

The ECU will eventually figure out how the new piping works just give it some time.

RussB

iTrader: (2)

in colder temperatures your car will build more boost due to the denser air. the 3/16's mod lets your car overboost a bit. with the 3/16's mod and cold temperatures, it's very possible that you could hit 20 psi. that's not really a good thing... can you find a brass fitting with a diameter close to the stock coupler?

Scoobyvroom

I am gonna stop by checkers to see what I can see, I know what you mean about more dense air but air density should not change what the ECU does with the boost solenoid. pressure is pressure.


to be continued....

Chris

mmboost

iTrader: (2)

Um, sounds like you are doing something that is keeping the wastegate from seeing boost. You keep this up and you'll eventually get a CEL and a nice wakeup call with a loud boost dump

Recheck how you replace the hoses and check for kinks and blockages.

jason

p.s. this, btw is the exact opposite of your initial problem. Before you were running wastegate only.

Scoobyvroom

No the WG is seeing boost as I said before it builds boost then it drops then spikes to over 1.4bar. And WTF is a loud boost dump??

I am sorry I have been working on DSMs for quite a while. The reason I brought this question here was I am not sure how the ECU sees boost. I am guessing it is based on Airtemp vs MAF readings to determine boost levels, and air density. I have done everything I can think of. I pressurized the IC and hoses to check for leaks. I tried to turn the boost contol system back to stock. I also reset the ECu thinking it would default back to some sort of lowly OEM setting. I am kind of out of ideas. I suppose that replacing the restrictor on the boost solenoid part of the setup would allow more pressure to the WG and less to be blow back to the intake pipe. I am not used to all the restrictors this car has.

Thanks for the HELPFUL input....

Chris..

sKOOTeR WRX

The reason for the restrictor is just the way that the car was designed. I really don't know why they didn't make it just one long tube and program the ECU with those sizes, but Subaru didn't.

When you replace the restrictor with larger piping the ECU will adapt but it will take sometime. The reason why you are seeing spikes and drops is as the boost builds the controller is opening and closing pulsating the WG. In your case as the boost is building the controller is pulsating the WG open/close to monitor the boost. But as the RPMS rise you are pushing more exhaust and the ECU is pulsating the same which causes the WG to be closed longer than it should be.. the boost spike. The same reason is behind the lower boost also...

If you want to know more about how the wastegate controller works reasearch on boost controller duty cycles and that will help give you more information... Hope this helps...

The restrictors are their to restrict things it is just the pieces they engineered the car with.

-skooter

Scoobyvroom

Well they are a PIA any way I got a restrictor from Checkers it was the only one they had. It was a vacum restrictor was the name. Boost, vacum, whatever!! Any way put that in and now am back to only .6 bar O boost.. Man I am giving up ARGH any other ideas?? Thoe hole looked pretty close to the OEM one.

Chris