Re-Mapped ECU Learning Trick 10-20hp in 5 seconds :)
01-16-2003, 11:13 PM
#1
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Re-Mapped ECU Learning Trick 10-20hp in 5 seconds :)
Just a little trick that has been shown to accelerate the factory ECU's ignition timing learning process.
Background: There is something called "Ignition Advance Multiplier". It represents, by some complicated algorithm, the average learned positive knock correction applied to the ignition maps. It's represented in 1/8th degrees increments. 1 being the lowest and 16 being the highest (1/8 to 2 degrees in absolute terms).
The "happier" (knock free) the car is, the higher the number will be. Conversely, the lower it is, the more knock prone it is. This number, after ECU reset ore ECU swap defaults to 8 and usually creeps up to 16 (if well mapped) through normal driving. Depending on driving characteristics, this can happen within a few hours or a few weeks. Well, here's a way to make it happen in about 5 seconds ....
First: With the car fully warmed up, reset the ECU. This can be done by killing power the ECU or by simply pulling off the neg. battery terminal and pressing the brake pedal for a couple of seconds.
Second: Drive to a nice open road without traffic. Don't go on boost until you get there. Put the car into gear (3rd gear works the best) bring the revs up to 2600rpm. Push the go pedal down slightly so boost stays right around 2-4psi. You will need to MAINTAIN 2500rpm and 2-5psi for approx 5 seconds. You can do this by left-foot braking gently as to prevent acceleration. During these few seconds, the advance multiplier (which you can't see so you'll have to trust me) will go from 8, to 12 and then to 16. Works like a charm. And on our reflashed ECU, is worth an immediate 10-20 horsepower
In an attempt to save a lot of dyno time between reflashes (when the advance multiplier resets itself), I do this little trick after every reflash. In a typical dyno session, it's not unusual to reflash the same car up to 5 times. On the dyno, all I need to do is tell the dyno to hold revs to 2600rpm. Then I just lay on the throttle until I see a few psi of boost... Bingo!
Warning: This little trick artificially speeds up the learning process. This is only a good thing if the re-mapped ECU is mapped properly. If there are trouble-spots where knock is present, this trick will make it even more present. So be careful!
Cheers,
shiv
www.vishnutuning.com
________
Wrangler
Background: There is something called "Ignition Advance Multiplier". It represents, by some complicated algorithm, the average learned positive knock correction applied to the ignition maps. It's represented in 1/8th degrees increments. 1 being the lowest and 16 being the highest (1/8 to 2 degrees in absolute terms).
The "happier" (knock free) the car is, the higher the number will be. Conversely, the lower it is, the more knock prone it is. This number, after ECU reset ore ECU swap defaults to 8 and usually creeps up to 16 (if well mapped) through normal driving. Depending on driving characteristics, this can happen within a few hours or a few weeks. Well, here's a way to make it happen in about 5 seconds ....
First: With the car fully warmed up, reset the ECU. This can be done by killing power the ECU or by simply pulling off the neg. battery terminal and pressing the brake pedal for a couple of seconds.
Second: Drive to a nice open road without traffic. Don't go on boost until you get there. Put the car into gear (3rd gear works the best) bring the revs up to 2600rpm. Push the go pedal down slightly so boost stays right around 2-4psi. You will need to MAINTAIN 2500rpm and 2-5psi for approx 5 seconds. You can do this by left-foot braking gently as to prevent acceleration. During these few seconds, the advance multiplier (which you can't see so you'll have to trust me) will go from 8, to 12 and then to 16. Works like a charm. And on our reflashed ECU, is worth an immediate 10-20 horsepower
In an attempt to save a lot of dyno time between reflashes (when the advance multiplier resets itself), I do this little trick after every reflash. In a typical dyno session, it's not unusual to reflash the same car up to 5 times. On the dyno, all I need to do is tell the dyno to hold revs to 2600rpm. Then I just lay on the throttle until I see a few psi of boost... Bingo!
Warning: This little trick artificially speeds up the learning process. This is only a good thing if the re-mapped ECU is mapped properly. If there are trouble-spots where knock is present, this trick will make it even more present. So be careful!
Cheers,
shiv
www.vishnutuning.com
________
Wrangler
Last edited by Vishnu; 03-07-2011 at 03:55 AM.
01-17-2003, 06:06 AM
#2
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Re: Re-Mapped ECU Learning Trick 10-20hp in 5 seconds :)
Originally posted by Vishnu
Just a little trick that has been shown to accelerate the factory ECU's ignition timing learning process.
<snip..>
Just a little trick that has been shown to accelerate the factory ECU's ignition timing learning process.
<snip..>
Just Wondering
01-26-2003, 07:52 PM
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None. Unless your ecu has detected knock in the past and reduced your positive knock count that is. This "trick"/procedure is only to get your computer back up to speed after your battery has been disconnected...
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01-27-2003, 01:05 AM
#7
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Originally posted by ShotgunTC88
Will ya help me translate PSI to MP for the 2-4PSI hold.
Will ya help me translate PSI to MP for the 2-4PSI hold.
Multiply PSI by .00689476 to get MPa
Here's an online metric/standard conversion chart.
--
^ww^
"...axles of evil..." - George W. Bush
02-05-2003, 11:09 AM
#10
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So, the flash that you sell and the quoted dyno numbers are before or after that "trick"?
If this trick is done will the dyno numbers, which you show on your website, be 10-20hp higher?
After all this is done and setup, what happens when you get some "bad" gas from gas station and get knock? Does the system retard timing and then slowly increase over a long period?
T
If this trick is done will the dyno numbers, which you show on your website, be 10-20hp higher?
After all this is done and setup, what happens when you get some "bad" gas from gas station and get knock? Does the system retard timing and then slowly increase over a long period?
T
02-05-2003, 06:07 PM
#11
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Posts: n/a
Second: Drive to a nice open road without traffic. Don't go on boost until you get there. Put the car into gear (3rd gear works the best) bring the revs up to 2600rpm. Push the go pedal down slightly so boost stays right around 2-4psi. You will need to MAINTAIN 2500rpm and 2-5psi for approx 5 seconds. You can do this by left-foot braking gently as to prevent acceleration. During these few seconds,
What am I not gettin here?
It seems im not in boost at 2600 in 3rd gear?
Does Shiv mean START from Stop in 3rd so it HAS to lug up to boost?
Sorry, Im just not doin somthin right here.........?
Bewildered (as useual<g>)
Shotgun
What am I not gettin here?
It seems im not in boost at 2600 in 3rd gear?
Does Shiv mean START from Stop in 3rd so it HAS to lug up to boost?
Sorry, Im just not doin somthin right here.........?
Bewildered (as useual<g>)
Shotgun
cool
03-04-2003, 12:41 AM
#15
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Car Info: Real Slow
this shortcut trick really works.
after reset and shivs little trick, my first full pull was hesitation free and stayed that way. car pulled just like before.
thanks for the tip, shiv!
after reset and shivs little trick, my first full pull was hesitation free and stayed that way. car pulled just like before.
thanks for the tip, shiv!