no drive to the rears
Guest
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no drive to the rears
Gudday, new to this forum and I have a problem that some of you may know how to cure.
Car-92 GT Legacy wagon 4EAT. 150,000kms. Tranny rebuilt at 76,000kms.
Last winter my AWD died. I have since checked the following:
fwd fuse-absent
Duty solenoid 'c'
AWD clutch pack
ecu and tcu
front and rear speed sensors
fluid change
wiring harness and plugs
All check out fine.
The fronts still spin up and on the hoist the rears are running in drive but I can stall them by hand. All transfer shafts are intact.
I've posted on another forum with this prob without much success.
One suggestion i've had is to install a switch to operate the duty solenoid manually and place a resistor on the end of the open tcu circuit (13 ohms, 20 watt).
Thoughts anyone? Thanks in advance.
Car-92 GT Legacy wagon 4EAT. 150,000kms. Tranny rebuilt at 76,000kms.
Last winter my AWD died. I have since checked the following:
fwd fuse-absent
Duty solenoid 'c'
AWD clutch pack
ecu and tcu
front and rear speed sensors
fluid change
wiring harness and plugs
All check out fine.
The fronts still spin up and on the hoist the rears are running in drive but I can stall them by hand. All transfer shafts are intact.
I've posted on another forum with this prob without much success.
One suggestion i've had is to install a switch to operate the duty solenoid manually and place a resistor on the end of the open tcu circuit (13 ohms, 20 watt).
Thoughts anyone? Thanks in advance.
Registered User
iTrader: (12)
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 18,369
From: Reno, NV
Car Info: 1993/2000/2001 GF4 mostly red
Re: no drive to the rears
Originally posted by gt tankie
Last winter my AWD died. I have since checked the following:
fwd fuse-absent
Last winter my AWD died. I have since checked the following:
fwd fuse-absent
Guest
Posts: n/a
The fuse holder in the subaru has a fuse fitted only if you need front wheel drive i.e. when running on a space saver as it has a smaller rolling diameter. Removing it allows the AWD duty solenoid to function.
So for normal running it is removed.
So for normal running it is removed.
Guest
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All the trans electrics including the tcu have been tested and are fine.
Seems there is an absence of oil pressure to the duty solenoid c
so the trans will have to come out. All I need now are the tech manual images/documents so I can see how the oil pressure is developed and directed to the solenoid valve body but these are proving difficult to come by. I anyone has access to these can you post a reply and we'll talk.
Ta very much.
Seems there is an absence of oil pressure to the duty solenoid c
so the trans will have to come out. All I need now are the tech manual images/documents so I can see how the oil pressure is developed and directed to the solenoid valve body but these are proving difficult to come by. I anyone has access to these can you post a reply and we'll talk.
Ta very much.
Registered User
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 10
From: New Liskeard, Ontario
Car Info: 2002 Legacy L SE Wagon
Under normal circumstances the auto tranny only sends 10% of the power to the rear, which might explain why you were able to stop things. The auto takes a little while to react (go to full lock). If your auto is the same as the newer ones (say after 2000) then if you put the transmission in 1, or 2 it should lock the center diff. In fact, if it's like the newer cars, putting it in 2 also locks the transmission in 2. Starting from a stop in winter in 2nd gear can be quite helpful.
Guest
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New developments.
I unplugged the wire that goes to duty c last week and initially there was no change but a few days ago I suddenly got torque bind going around a sharp turn. The duty solenoid is sticking when the tcu drops the voltage. I measured the output from the tcu with a meter and found the following:
When the accelerator is depressed the voltage drops
when placed in any gear with no gas voltage is stable.
the solenoid has a resistance of 13 ohms-within spec.
The Tx fluid wasn't changed for 80k so there may be some crap and corruption in the solenoid/valvebody.
What i have done, The manual switch on the gear selector has been wired into the circuit between the tcu and the duty solenoid enabling me to manually change between awd and fwd.
Doing this is slowly unsticking the sticky bit with the end state being a solenoid that responds instantly like it should.
Once it is behaving I will wire it direct back to the tcu.
A new solenoid costs NZ$168 without having the duty set so this is my current alternative.
Makes me think those people who suffer from the infamous "torque bind" have dead duty "c" solenoids.
This must have a detrimental effect on differentials and other drive components. During this i found i have a LSD (Joy).
I unplugged the wire that goes to duty c last week and initially there was no change but a few days ago I suddenly got torque bind going around a sharp turn. The duty solenoid is sticking when the tcu drops the voltage. I measured the output from the tcu with a meter and found the following:
When the accelerator is depressed the voltage drops
when placed in any gear with no gas voltage is stable.
the solenoid has a resistance of 13 ohms-within spec.
The Tx fluid wasn't changed for 80k so there may be some crap and corruption in the solenoid/valvebody.
What i have done, The manual switch on the gear selector has been wired into the circuit between the tcu and the duty solenoid enabling me to manually change between awd and fwd.
Doing this is slowly unsticking the sticky bit with the end state being a solenoid that responds instantly like it should.
Once it is behaving I will wire it direct back to the tcu.
A new solenoid costs NZ$168 without having the duty set so this is my current alternative.
Makes me think those people who suffer from the infamous "torque bind" have dead duty "c" solenoids.
This must have a detrimental effect on differentials and other drive components. During this i found i have a LSD (Joy).
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