factory clutch life
#17
General Pimpin'
iTrader: (7)
Originally Posted by scarface
I have had my Exedy Stage 2 and ACT Streetlite flywheel in for about 30K. I am at 70K on my 05 STi. I love the setup except for light shuddering at lower rpms. But that is normal for this clutch. Other than that it pulls pretty good.
I would get misfire on cylinder 3 cell codes after i got this setup and mike at gruppe-s said that it is normal for a lightened flywheel on a subaru to get these cells.
If i ever get another clutch i would go with the stock one. just for the fact that is my everyday driver. IMO
Eli
I would get misfire on cylinder 3 cell codes after i got this setup and mike at gruppe-s said that it is normal for a lightened flywheel on a subaru to get these cells.
If i ever get another clutch i would go with the stock one. just for the fact that is my everyday driver. IMO
Eli
usually CEL's only occur when you also have a lightened crank pulley.
but that's with the exedy stage 1...might be different with the 2.
I have the organic and the streetlite waiting to be installed now...I'll let you know if I have any issues.
#18
VIP Member
iTrader: (7)
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: EBAIC- Wondering if I should have taken the blue pill...
Posts: 2,168
Car Info: 03 WRX wagon type RA
Usually STi's don't throw CEL codes because of lightened flys, due to their cam sensor.
WRX's have problems when you go too light (cam sensors). I've been running the Exedy Organic clutch with the ACT Streetlite flywheel and have had no CEL codes popping up. I've heard of problems with ACT's Prolite flywheel, though. That's because it's in the 9lb range as compared to the Streelite's 13.9lb design.
WRX's have problems when you go too light (cam sensors). I've been running the Exedy Organic clutch with the ACT Streetlite flywheel and have had no CEL codes popping up. I've heard of problems with ACT's Prolite flywheel, though. That's because it's in the 9lb range as compared to the Streelite's 13.9lb design.
#19
My stock clutch (02wrx) started slipping around 45-50K. I replaced everything with oem (TOB, flywheel, pressure plate). I have an earlier model wrx that had the bad shudder so thats why I bought a new flywheel, if you dont have shudder, you can most likely have it resurfaced or go with a light one.
Stock clutch is very good. Unless you have upgraded gears on your wrx I would stick with oem.
Stock clutch is very good. Unless you have upgraded gears on your wrx I would stick with oem.
Last edited by subie OCD; 09-08-2006 at 06:16 PM.
#20
My stock clutch is going at ~61k miles.
Wish I new about the clutch shudder problem...been having it forever and never really thought about it. Just thought it was something that happens first thing with stick shifts.
How much does a replacement at the dealer cost? vs a private shop? If so, does anyone know a good place in the Raleigh, NC area?
Wish I new about the clutch shudder problem...been having it forever and never really thought about it. Just thought it was something that happens first thing with stick shifts.
How much does a replacement at the dealer cost? vs a private shop? If so, does anyone know a good place in the Raleigh, NC area?
#23
Originally Posted by TheScoobyMedic
after this gets dropped in, time for smog and that vf34 upgrade ive been lustin for!!!
Are you saying that you need to smog your car already ---- MY2005?
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