clutch install on an 06 wrx mt
05-04-2009, 04:24 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Bethlum, PA
Posts: 555
Car Info: silver 2.5 tr 2006MT wrx
clutch install on an 06 wrx mt
anyone going to install a clutch on this year, you may need two extra things.
get yourself a ratchet strap, attach one on the hook next to the altenator, the other end on to the pitch stop, ratchet the hell out of it. helps get the trans off, and get it back on. you are pulling the front of the engine upward and the trans side/back, downward. made life much much easier.
the driveshafts on the front just pop off. just pull them off/ away from trans. just stick a small pry bar in between the trans and the driveshaft hub, the green part.
you are going to have to have the lower castle nut off, so you can lift the wheel assembly up and out off of the a arm. take the tie rod off too, it helps when putting it back together. use some string to tie it up and out of the way. tie it up high though like 6 to 8 inches higher then it sits. helps when you need to push it back in. remember there is nothing holding this up other then your string, because the camber bolt and the bolt below it are out. make sure you marked where the camber was.
another thing to watch for when removing theses shafts is this, the plug into the trans, the are male shafts, not female shafts like the previous years, there is no roll pin to remove. so when removing thesess shafts pull them staright out, all the way out, becuase there is an oil seal, it is rubber/plastic doesnt seam like much but, if you nock the shafts into it, you can dislodge a spring that sits on the inside of it. the spring is round, it raps around the inside portion of the seal. If you knock this spring out you will have to take off the bearing cover, it unscrews, it has a stop holding it on. it is held on with a 12 mm bolt. it is a pain to do save yourself the trouble and dont hit it. Now, if you hit it, like i have heard many people have you have to take off this cover, BUT DO ONE SIDE AT A TIME! Because if you take off both you will screw up you front dif.
now if you do have to take it off, do one side at a time. you can get the spring back in by flipping it over and getting it around the lip on the back and having it pop back in, but i just got 2 new ones. they are like 4.50 a piece, no biggie. THEY ARE DIRECTIONAL. YOU NEED A RIGHT AND A LEFT. to get them out tap out the old, and you can use the old one to tap in the new one.
use a rubber mallet tap it in gently. before you tap it in, flip it over (the seal), on the trans side, look up in the rubber flange on the inside edge you can see the spring, pack that with some grease. it wil reduce the chance of it popping out.
when putting the shafts back in line them up and just push the whole wheel assembly back at the trans you will feel it pop back in, doesnt take much to do, actually pretty easy if your dshaft is as straight as possible, by tying up the assembly.
hope this helps any one out there. other then that it is pretty much the same as the other model years.
get yourself a ratchet strap, attach one on the hook next to the altenator, the other end on to the pitch stop, ratchet the hell out of it. helps get the trans off, and get it back on. you are pulling the front of the engine upward and the trans side/back, downward. made life much much easier.
the driveshafts on the front just pop off. just pull them off/ away from trans. just stick a small pry bar in between the trans and the driveshaft hub, the green part.
you are going to have to have the lower castle nut off, so you can lift the wheel assembly up and out off of the a arm. take the tie rod off too, it helps when putting it back together. use some string to tie it up and out of the way. tie it up high though like 6 to 8 inches higher then it sits. helps when you need to push it back in. remember there is nothing holding this up other then your string, because the camber bolt and the bolt below it are out. make sure you marked where the camber was.
another thing to watch for when removing theses shafts is this, the plug into the trans, the are male shafts, not female shafts like the previous years, there is no roll pin to remove. so when removing thesess shafts pull them staright out, all the way out, becuase there is an oil seal, it is rubber/plastic doesnt seam like much but, if you nock the shafts into it, you can dislodge a spring that sits on the inside of it. the spring is round, it raps around the inside portion of the seal. If you knock this spring out you will have to take off the bearing cover, it unscrews, it has a stop holding it on. it is held on with a 12 mm bolt. it is a pain to do save yourself the trouble and dont hit it. Now, if you hit it, like i have heard many people have you have to take off this cover, BUT DO ONE SIDE AT A TIME! Because if you take off both you will screw up you front dif.
now if you do have to take it off, do one side at a time. you can get the spring back in by flipping it over and getting it around the lip on the back and having it pop back in, but i just got 2 new ones. they are like 4.50 a piece, no biggie. THEY ARE DIRECTIONAL. YOU NEED A RIGHT AND A LEFT. to get them out tap out the old, and you can use the old one to tap in the new one.
use a rubber mallet tap it in gently. before you tap it in, flip it over (the seal), on the trans side, look up in the rubber flange on the inside edge you can see the spring, pack that with some grease. it wil reduce the chance of it popping out.
when putting the shafts back in line them up and just push the whole wheel assembly back at the trans you will feel it pop back in, doesnt take much to do, actually pretty easy if your dshaft is as straight as possible, by tying up the assembly.
hope this helps any one out there. other then that it is pretty much the same as the other model years.
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