I just bought a 1974 VW Super Beetle and I'm working out some of the problems.

My current problem is: when the key is turned in the ignition, the belts move and you hear the car turning over but the engine does not start.
Does anyone know what are the possible parts on the car that are causing the engine to not start? I believe the problem is a bad starter or distributor, but I'm not sure. As I said, the main belt moves and you can hear the car trying to start but nothing happens despite tapping the gas and rocking the car to perhaps get the starter to work one last time.

Can anyone with automotive experience help me? THANK YOU!!

 

My initial impression would be to replace ALL of the ignition system part, including plugs, wires, coil or whatever it uses, then go for the belts and so on. Starter motors and associated stuff also go, with time, and all of it is only 30 years old! The good news: all this is readily available in the general parts market.
Good luck. Park on a hill facing downhill and get 1-15 mph and rev her over! (I had a Mazda that was so loose that I could push it by myself, jam in in 1st, pop the clutch and start every time: who needs starter motors?)

 

Thank you Patrick...

Today I talked to the last owner, he had a AAA two truck driver look at the car when it wouldn't start. Apparently two of the distributor wires fused together while he was driving....so he suggested replacing all those spark plug wires and and replacing the distributor cap. Does this sound like reasonable advice?

Also the wiring system was messed up as some of the lights would not turn on after bulbs were replaced...turns out it was just a burned out fuse probably caused by the plug problem.

 

UPDATE:
The Chilton manual for the 1970-1981 air cooled Volkswagen is TOTAL butt!!! Not only is there not a diagram or exploded diagram of every part of the engine bay but they don't even go so far as to tell you where the starter is! I had to take off the rear right wheel and peer inside to find the starter is underneath the engine! I'm very disappointed, though the Chilton manual for the 22R powered Toyota pickup is quite thorough. I would recommend to anyone working on a project car to order several manuals/how-to guides to find the best one for the job at hand.

 

Thanks for the reply. Apologies for not returning sooner: I've been away. Yes, replace all of the ignition wiring! After all that time, even the highest quality insulators dry out, crack and allow arcing, which probably fused the wires. The same occurs in wiring for lights, but less so, as they carry much less current. I don't see a connection between plug wires fusing and blowing light fuses, though.

Good luck!

 

OK here's another update,
So far I have replaced the spark plug wires and replaced the distributor cap. That did not work, and I tested the spark from the coil and it's the spark was not arcing SOOOO I'm currently in the process of replacing the coil (it's an old Bosch blue and I got a generic coil from Kragen but it's chrome so I guess that's cool ) and replacing the entire distributor.

As I'm working on the car I'm learning more and more. I looked behind the distributor and all the wires connecting the distributor to the coil and to the rest of the vehicle look either burned through the black rubber insulation or don't even have insulation and are just copper wiring! So all the wires have to be replaced, while taking off the dist. cap a vacuum hose from the carburetor just snapped in half, and I talked to the last owner and one spark plug is screwed in so tight that is simply has not been removed for many thousands of miles! So in short, parts to be replaced are distributor, coil, spark plugs and all wiring/vacuum hoses.

This is definitely a long project. Thank goodness for the other family cars!

 

You may have a hell of a time getting out the frozen spark plug without breaking it off. I have a couple of suggestions, guaranteeing none of them: 1. soak as best you can around the plug will with a penetrating concoction for loosening rusty bolts. After a time, gently tap, if you can get at it, the top of the plug. Do this several times, trying to work the solution down the threads. Then, (this seems counterintutitive but it has worked for me) put on your plug socket and wrench and give it ONE hard TIGHTENING shot. Then, try to back it out. A more radical approach is to try heating around the plug hole (without burning up your car!) with a small torch and then try to loosen the plug, on the theory that you will expand the female threads to allow the male an easier exit. (Sorry, I couldn't help myself.)

Good luck, and if all else fails, off with the head!

 

OK I have gotten the car running.

The problems and solutions included putting in all new wiring to the coil and distributor and related parts, new condensor and points and distributor cap, new coil, filling up the gas tank which was almost empty and replacing old braided fuel lines with new rubber-type lines and a new fuel filter.

The bug is up and running, and I've changed the oil and put in new spark plug wires. It leaks oil out of the oil filler area and I have no idea how to fix that. Also the "oil filter" has a banged up mesh and that has to be replaced soon.

Thanks for the spark plug info...I know I have to replace all the spark plugs soon and rebuild the engine and do a valve adjustment, but that is for the near future. Adios