Is there a HOW-TO for installing rotors/pads on a WRX?
Is there a HOW-TO for installing rotors/pads on a WRX?
(Please keep this thread in the general section.)
It would be nice if there were step-by-step instructions and pictures of the procedure. I downloaded the PDF rips of the service manual, but sometimes HOW-TOs from the internet are nicer.
Anyone got a link?
I've been flirting with the idea of installing rotors/pads myself. Is this a rediculous notion or should I take it to a shop? I have the time/tools/will to learn how to do it myself. I also have a fair amount of spare time right now. It doesn't look that hard, but it is the braking system we're dealing with here.
It would be nice if there were step-by-step instructions and pictures of the procedure. I downloaded the PDF rips of the service manual, but sometimes HOW-TOs from the internet are nicer.
Anyone got a link?
I've been flirting with the idea of installing rotors/pads myself. Is this a rediculous notion or should I take it to a shop? I have the time/tools/will to learn how to do it myself. I also have a fair amount of spare time right now. It doesn't look that hard, but it is the braking system we're dealing with here.
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have you looked on scoobymods? im sure most of the stuff is there.
or just ask around, im sure a few people in your area will help you out for a 6 pack.
heck, id help you out for a large quiznos sub ha ha
or just ask around, im sure a few people in your area will help you out for a 6 pack.
heck, id help you out for a large quiznos sub ha ha
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It's very simple and def. something you can do yourself. Just put the car up on jack stands and remove all 4 wheels. Then loosen the two 14mm bolts on the brake caliper. With those off you can remove a portion of the caliper and then there are two other bolts that hold the caliper bracket on, with those off it all slides off. Then pull the rotor off, might need to thread a bolt through the hole on the rotor to help push it off the car (intercooler bracket bolts work great for this) Then slide the new rotor on and then put the caliper bracket back on. With the bracket on slide the brake pads into it and then put the piston portion of the caliper back on. Then just repeat this on all other corners. One note for the rears it to release the ebrake so you can pull the rotor off. Also if you aren't changing fluid then support the caliper on a bucket of some sort so the lines won't be stretched with it just dangling there. Good luck!
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Originally Posted by dan avoN7
It's very simple and def. something you can do yourself. Just put the car up on jack stands and remove all 4 wheels. Then loosen the two 14mm bolts on the brake caliper. With those off you can remove a portion of the caliper and then there are two other bolts that hold the caliper bracket on, with those off it all slides off. Then pull the rotor off, might need to thread a bolt through the hole on the rotor to help push it off the car (intercooler bracket bolts work great for this) Then slide the new rotor on and then put the caliper bracket back on. With the bracket on slide the brake pads into it and then put the piston portion of the caliper back on. Then just repeat this on all other corners. One note for the rears it to release the ebrake so you can pull the rotor off. Also if you aren't changing fluid then support the caliper on a bucket of some sort so the lines won't be stretched with it just dangling there. Good luck!
DPT!!!!
on a side note..this is right on. It's pretty easy.
Originally Posted by dorifto88
have you looked on scoobymods? im sure most of the stuff is there.
or just ask around, im sure a few people in your area will help you out for a 6 pack.
heck, id help you out for a large quiznos sub ha ha
or just ask around, im sure a few people in your area will help you out for a 6 pack.
heck, id help you out for a large quiznos sub ha ha
Just remember, when you push the pisons back in you'll need to open up the bleeder valve.
The excess brake fluid will then shoot out of the valve rather than back up into your lines.
Why do this? Because dirty fluid being shot into your (very) expensive ABS unit may damage your ABS. ABS units are not serviceable, so if it was damaged you'd need to replace it with a new one from Subaru. Bring your wallet.
The excess brake fluid will then shoot out of the valve rather than back up into your lines.
Why do this? Because dirty fluid being shot into your (very) expensive ABS unit may damage your ABS. ABS units are not serviceable, so if it was damaged you'd need to replace it with a new one from Subaru. Bring your wallet.
Originally Posted by dorifto88
have you looked on scoobymods? im sure most of the stuff is there.
or just ask around, im sure a few people in your area will help you out for a 6 pack.
heck, id help you out for a large quiznos sub ha ha
or just ask around, im sure a few people in your area will help you out for a 6 pack.
heck, id help you out for a large quiznos sub ha ha
Originally Posted by dan avoN7
It's very simple and def. something you can do yourself. Just put the car up on jack stands and remove all 4 wheels. Then loosen the two 14mm bolts on the brake caliper. With those off you can remove a portion of the caliper and then there are two other bolts that hold the caliper bracket on, with those off it all slides off. Then pull the rotor off, might need to thread a bolt through the hole on the rotor to help push it off the car (intercooler bracket bolts work great for this) Then slide the new rotor on and then put the caliper bracket back on. With the bracket on slide the brake pads into it and then put the piston portion of the caliper back on. Then just repeat this on all other corners. One note for the rears it to release the ebrake so you can pull the rotor off. Also if you aren't changing fluid then support the caliper on a bucket of some sort so the lines won't be stretched with it just dangling there. Good luck!
Originally Posted by Aegon
Just remember, when you push the pisons back in you'll need to open up the bleeder valve.
The excess brake fluid will then shoot out of the valve rather than back up into your lines.
Why do this? Because dirty fluid being shot into your (very) expensive ABS unit may damage your ABS. ABS units are not serviceable, so if it was damaged you'd need to replace it with a new one from Subaru. Bring your wallet.
The excess brake fluid will then shoot out of the valve rather than back up into your lines.
Why do this? Because dirty fluid being shot into your (very) expensive ABS unit may damage your ABS. ABS units are not serviceable, so if it was damaged you'd need to replace it with a new one from Subaru. Bring your wallet.
I was on a website of a BMW enthusiast who had a photo-essay/step-by-step guide to installing rotors/pads on his BMW. At one point in the install, he took a wood clamp and pressed the piston back in while bleeding the valve.
Sounds like the same deal, right?
Here's his site (see step 6, "Compress Piston"):
http://hock.net/m-brake-pads-step-2.php
And for posterity, if anyone stumbles upon this thread looking for the same thing as me, here's the ScoobyMod HOW-TO for rotor installation:
http://www.scoobymods.com/forums/showthread.php?t=476
also realize that taking off the rear rotors requires the parking brake to be off, or disengaged. if the rear rotors are still stuck, use two 8mm standard pitch bolts to thread into the two holes near the center of the rotor. take a rubber mallet, hit the rotors or bolts (straight on, dont snap the bolts!), thread in more, and use mallet again.
Originally Posted by n192da
I was on a website of a BMW enthusiast who had a photo-essay/step-by-step guide to installing rotors/pads on his BMW. At one point in the install, he took a wood clamp and pressed the piston back in while bleeding the valve.
Sounds like the same deal, right?
Sounds like the same deal, right?
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