Sway Bar/Endlink Questions
12-23-2013, 02:24 PM
#16
I've got WL front and rear swaybars on my car (03 WRX Sedan). I have had them for many years and the ONLY issue I ever had with them was with the rear sway bar mounts.
When I upgraded my Stock RSB to the Whiteline I didn't upgrade the mounts and just used the stock ones. This proved to be a significant issue as the stiffer Whiteline swaybar did cause the stock RSB Mounts to break. That said, after upgrading the RSB Mounts to the Whiteline HD mounts, I have had no further problems at all.
I'm also using Perrin Rear Endlinks and Kartboy Front Endlinks. No issues with those either.
When I upgraded my Stock RSB to the Whiteline I didn't upgrade the mounts and just used the stock ones. This proved to be a significant issue as the stiffer Whiteline swaybar did cause the stock RSB Mounts to break. That said, after upgrading the RSB Mounts to the Whiteline HD mounts, I have had no further problems at all.
I'm also using Perrin Rear Endlinks and Kartboy Front Endlinks. No issues with those either.
12-23-2013, 02:25 PM
#17
Well what do you want to do with your car? Autox setups are very different from track use. I never had a problem with my 22mm whitelines and kb endlinks in the STi for 3 years. I dont think i even lubed the endlinks at all. But then again i didnt go a big swaybar since i had coils. This is all on the GD platform so i have no clue for the newer ones.
12-23-2013, 04:07 PM
#20
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Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: San Jose, CA
Posts: 3,311
Car Info: 2011 WRX hatch gray
Can you explain to me why large sway bars are a bandaid for people that enter corners to fast and still want flat cornering?
I'm curious about that one. I find that with my bandaid sway bar... if I enter a corner to fast I pay for it. A lot more so than when I had smaller bars. Lift/snap oversteer is a MUCH larger issue with 24/27mm bars.
As for auto crossers... I know a few with SOLID bars.
Solid endlinks should not clack. That means they don't fit right or there's something wrong with them. I've got whitelines front and rear right now... no noise what so ever. The perrins were quiet until the bearing gave out. But I suppose it's normal for them to be a bit louder than stock crap.
I am curious. The sway bar stuff interests me because it seems like I always read different stuff.
Some folks say with the GD you gotta run a larger rear bar. Then I read auto crossers telling people to run a larger front bar or equal sized bars.
With the GR chassis I keep reading that you should run upgraded and equal sized bars or run the 24/22 set up. Everything I've read that sounds like the set up I would run.
Running those big ol 27's you're gonna have to run a pretty agressive set up all around.
I always have a hard time with these questions on line because you have guys like me that are familiar with the GD trying to tell guys with a GR what to do. I can only regurgitate what I've read on that platform as I don't own one. What I have done is read what folks like Turn In have to say about it.
So my recommendation is 24/22 with solid endlinks. LOL!
I'm curious about that one. I find that with my bandaid sway bar... if I enter a corner to fast I pay for it. A lot more so than when I had smaller bars. Lift/snap oversteer is a MUCH larger issue with 24/27mm bars.
As for auto crossers... I know a few with SOLID bars.
Solid endlinks should not clack. That means they don't fit right or there's something wrong with them. I've got whitelines front and rear right now... no noise what so ever. The perrins were quiet until the bearing gave out. But I suppose it's normal for them to be a bit louder than stock crap.
I am curious. The sway bar stuff interests me because it seems like I always read different stuff.
Some folks say with the GD you gotta run a larger rear bar. Then I read auto crossers telling people to run a larger front bar or equal sized bars.
With the GR chassis I keep reading that you should run upgraded and equal sized bars or run the 24/22 set up. Everything I've read that sounds like the set up I would run.
Running those big ol 27's you're gonna have to run a pretty agressive set up all around.
I always have a hard time with these questions on line because you have guys like me that are familiar with the GD trying to tell guys with a GR what to do. I can only regurgitate what I've read on that platform as I don't own one. What I have done is read what folks like Turn In have to say about it.
So my recommendation is 24/22 with solid endlinks. LOL!
As for the bandaid comment, I actually I think we might not be in disagreement. In your 24/27, snap oversteer definitely is the price. What I was saying is that most people (driving on the street) do not and should not be exceeding the limit of their tires. What ends up happening is that their driving technique is a lower speed version of "too hot", and they don't realize it because they are within the traction limits of the tire. So they think they are going fast. Try that same technique at the limit, and they'll find they plow like there's no tomorrow.
So... since they are still within the traction limit, they make the turn... albeit on the single outside front tire; where the car rolls. So they like big bars to reduce the roll. In that way, I feel it is a bandaid. Hmmm maybe not such a great choice of words.
...
As for clacking... as the bushings wear out, the clacking gets worse. BTW, I don't blame just the aftermarket endlinks. I think part of the problem is the aftermarket sway bars, and changing of the ride height with aftermarket springs. I think the proper solution are helm joints, or ball joint... like the STI has. Bushing type are fine for street only cars if the bushing is rubber. Poly bushing type endlinks are always going to have problems with slightly off fit. It works, don't get me wrong, but it's slightly goofy... which has a serious wear effect on the endlink bushings.
Back to the OP, I see nothing wrong with the parts he has selected.
12-23-2013, 04:15 PM
#21
Ah... that makes more sense. LOL!
Agreed. I wouldn't trust my car in the hands of all that many people. I let me wife drive it because I know she's not pushing it. My sway bar set up will eat you alive if you're not paying attention.
With the endlinks. Anything with a bearing is gonna wear out and start sticking. That's unfortunate. I wish more people would use grease fittings. That's partly why I switched the whiteline HD's with the poly bushings. PLENTY stiff for street and track and way more streetable. I wouldn't recommend a bearing based endlink for anything that's not garage, ever sees the snow/mud/dirt or isn't track driven. Not necessary.
When my perrin's seized up they got loud as hell. But they were fine until then. These new ones... trouble free.
Agreed. I wouldn't trust my car in the hands of all that many people. I let me wife drive it because I know she's not pushing it. My sway bar set up will eat you alive if you're not paying attention.
With the endlinks. Anything with a bearing is gonna wear out and start sticking. That's unfortunate. I wish more people would use grease fittings. That's partly why I switched the whiteline HD's with the poly bushings. PLENTY stiff for street and track and way more streetable. I wouldn't recommend a bearing based endlink for anything that's not garage, ever sees the snow/mud/dirt or isn't track driven. Not necessary.
When my perrin's seized up they got loud as hell. But they were fine until then. These new ones... trouble free.
12-29-2013, 05:10 PM
#23
Registered User
Thread Starter
Well looks like no one is having any issues with these parts which is comforting.
I actually had made an appointment with Garage One in Mountain View to get these parts put on my car, anyone go to this shop for suspension? Looks like I will be going in tomorrow morning unless someone instructs me otherwise.
I actually had made an appointment with Garage One in Mountain View to get these parts put on my car, anyone go to this shop for suspension? Looks like I will be going in tomorrow morning unless someone instructs me otherwise.
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