Seized Coilover Lock Ring
Registered User
iTrader: (14)
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 4,499
From: L.A. and the mountains
Car Info: WRX
What I did when mine were seized is when it was in the car (of course after liberal pb blastings) Used a big flat head screwdriver or you can use punch or chisel or something that fits in between the lock ring teeth and just hit that with a hammer. Mine came loose soooo quick.
I found this to be the least damaging way. I've done the spanner wrench and a tube extension as well but that tends to round out the teeth on the lock ring. Heat is pretty much a last resort as it will damage the finish on your coilovers...
I found this to be the least damaging way. I've done the spanner wrench and a tube extension as well but that tends to round out the teeth on the lock ring. Heat is pretty much a last resort as it will damage the finish on your coilovers...
Warm Fuzzy Admin
iTrader: (45)
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 13,799
From: Sacramento, CA
Car Info: 97 LOB, 05 FXT, 03 Tundra
I'm sure your;e trying this, but rock it back and forth, too - one way, then back, with the different methods people are using. Are the coils on the car?
Not sure what your wrench setups are; Tein wrenches have 1/2" cutouts so you can crank on them with a breaker bar ($10-15 at the auto parts store or HF). In my experience, a lot of the coils use similar enough wrench spacing (my Tein wrenches worked on Cuscos, for example) that you might be able to borrow a set - it's the safest way since it's a locking interface.
Rocking back (even if it seems like it's the opposite direction you want to go) can help clear the threads.
Not sure what your wrench setups are; Tein wrenches have 1/2" cutouts so you can crank on them with a breaker bar ($10-15 at the auto parts store or HF). In my experience, a lot of the coils use similar enough wrench spacing (my Tein wrenches worked on Cuscos, for example) that you might be able to borrow a set - it's the safest way since it's a locking interface.
Rocking back (even if it seems like it's the opposite direction you want to go) can help clear the threads.
Registered User
iTrader: (24)
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 1,831
From: Walnut Creek/BayArea, CA
Car Info: 2009 WRB WRX Sedan
Flathead or Chisel like said above is what always worked for me when they were seized. If you have some around rub some Anti-Seize Lube or Vaseline on the threads when your threading it. It helps a ton when you go back to them to adjust them.
Registered User
iTrader: (14)
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 4,499
From: L.A. and the mountains
Car Info: WRX
The rocking method could work...but in my case it wouldn't budge in any direction and I was using the wrench with cheater extension or like 3 feet. Hitting it with the hammer and screwdriver worked wonders.
Registered User
iTrader: (14)
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 4,499
From: L.A. and the mountains
Car Info: WRX
+1 I put antiseize on my new ones.
Thread Starter
It's QQ thankyouverymuch
iTrader: (39)
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 19,721
From: San Jose
Car Info: 2011 SWP WRX Hatch
What I did when mine were seized is when it was in the car (of course after liberal pb blastings) Used a big flat head screwdriver or you can use punch or chisel or something that fits in between the lock ring teeth and just hit that with a hammer. Mine came loose soooo quick.
It's free!
Now to clean the **** out of the threads.
Thread Starter
It's QQ thankyouverymuch
iTrader: (39)
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 19,721
From: San Jose
Car Info: 2011 SWP WRX Hatch
**** this ****... So the seize was on one of the rear struts. Got it free and adjusted the rears. Rear is now lowered about 2 inches. Get the front end up and the wheels off. Both struts are seized worse than the one rear.
Super bummed.
It's time to call the professionals...
Super bummed.
It's time to call the professionals...
