How to move subframe for lockout bolt installation

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Old Oct 13, 2014 | 06:10 PM
  #1  
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How to move subframe for lockout bolt installation

I've loosened the four mounting bolts for the rear subframe but cannot get it to budge. I've tried prying with a pry bar, hitting it with a deadblow, even using a bottle jack with leverage, nothing works. Any suggestions? Am I missing something?
Old Oct 13, 2014 | 06:34 PM
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LOL wut?

You do not have to move anything, you do not have to undo bolts. You just chase the threads then install the bolt to spec. If its not lined up, then something is wrong with your subframe.
Old Oct 13, 2014 | 06:46 PM
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Yes, the subframe is slightly out of alignment, that's why I need to move it to get the bolts installed. It needs to shift about 1mm toward the front driver corner. I've read that this is a common occurrence and I'm aware that I'll need an alignment after moving the subframe. Just looking for ideas on how to get it to budge.
Old Oct 13, 2014 | 07:54 PM
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if its only 1mm.. *thinks* I am not sure man, mine lined right up and every one of them I have helped do lined up.

*IDEA* back up with your rear tires into a curb, gently continue to back up tell you almost but not quite start to climb the curb. With the bolts on the subframe loose they should line up.
Old Oct 14, 2014 | 07:23 AM
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Maybe I should try just pushing on the wheels with the car in the air, that would definitely give me more leverage that prying directly on the subframe. I'll give it a shot this weekend. I was mostly worried that I might need to loosen more bolts than just the four subframe mount bolts but I took another look and I can't see anything stopping it from moving.
Old Oct 14, 2014 | 08:00 AM
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make sure you chase the threads BEFORE you try to put the bolts in. Consider how many years of crap, water, rust and so on are up in there.
Old Oct 14, 2014 | 08:56 AM
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Originally Posted by Overbear
make sure you chase the threads BEFORE you try to put the bolts in. Consider how many years of crap, water, rust and so on are up in there.
I have made thread chases out of old bolts that still have nice sharp threads on them. This is an option if you don't have a chase handy.
Old Oct 14, 2014 | 09:52 AM
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There is a second frame forward of the dif keeping you from moving your rear subframe.
Old Oct 14, 2014 | 05:06 PM
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Originally Posted by jdblock
There is a second frame forward of the dif keeping you from moving your rear subframe.
This. lol. It is often called a T-bar or whisker bar.

Also, if you haven't disconnected the trailing arms from the knuckles or the knuckles from the lateral links that would also keep the rear subframe from moving around.
Old Oct 14, 2014 | 06:04 PM
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Thanks guys, I'll look for that t-bar thing. All the write-ups I've found online just say to loosen those four bolts and that will give enough movement to align the bolt holes, you would think someone would have mentioned the second t-bar piece by now. I'll post my results up when I give it another go this weekend.
Old Oct 14, 2014 | 06:51 PM
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Originally Posted by bflan2001
Thanks guys, I'll look for that t-bar thing. All the write-ups I've found online just say to loosen those four bolts and that will give enough movement to align the bolt holes, you would think someone would have mentioned the second t-bar piece by now. I'll post my results up when I give it another go this weekend.
I'll be honest, I didn't loosen jack **** when I installed my lock bolts. I'd bet there are some crooked parts on the car somewhere causing the misalignment.
Old Oct 14, 2014 | 08:28 PM
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I did have to loosen up the rear subframe on my Forester. Then install the subframe locking bolts. Then retighten the normal subframe bolts. You want it lose so that it can shift a bit and move, because the subframe locking bolts are designed to line everything up.
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