hookups on tires in 408?
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From: Norcal
Car Info: 98 2.5rs/94 rx7/04 mazda6/06 audi s4/12 GT-R
i just order from tirerack and ship it to tire merchants. read it from members here..couldnt believe it, had to find out myself. 40 bucks for mount and balance all 4 tires. 2 dollar disposal fee each tire. only issue is they tighten the lugs back way too tight..i tore up my volk lugs taking them off 
Auto Innovations will end up with an 'out the door' price very close to the Tire Rack thing + separate installer... if not cheaper. As I said, they've always been very competitive on price when I've checked.
And they know how to handle aftermarket wheels / lugs. Plus they'll patch / warranty tires you bought from them, where with Tire Rack + separate installer, you're on your own if you roll over a nail.
And they know how to handle aftermarket wheels / lugs. Plus they'll patch / warranty tires you bought from them, where with Tire Rack + separate installer, you're on your own if you roll over a nail.
Last edited by Concillian; Jan 22, 2010 at 04:41 PM.
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Car Info: 2004 Subaru STi, 1997 Eclipse GST(SOLD)
Thanks everyone!
AI is the lowest price!!! But I ended up going with America Tire price matched Discount Tire Direct due to their free shipping
Paying 10 bucks more compared to AI since AmericaTire does free rotate and balance lifetime.
So you guys recommend AI for alignment?
AI is the lowest price!!! But I ended up going with America Tire price matched Discount Tire Direct due to their free shipping
Paying 10 bucks more compared to AI since AmericaTire does free rotate and balance lifetime.
So you guys recommend AI for alignment?
Yes, because they won't try to talk me out of alignment specs if I tell them what I want and it doesn't match what they have in the computer.
Most places won't align you to anything but factory specs, which I think are -0.5 Front / -1.0 Rear camber.
The factory settings were killing the outside of my tires. I get MUCH better wear with -1.1 Front / -0.7 Rear and regular rotation. Performance is also improved pretty significantly. Normally you won't be able to adjust rear, I have adjustable rear lateral links that allow me to go a little less negative in the rear to help the rear move a bit easier. With that I wear a little more on the inside in the front and a little more on the outside in the rear. Regular rotation keeps tire wear pretty even, but my drivers sides always wear out first due to the freeway on/ off ramps always being a right turn.
Look at your tires and use them as a guide for your alignment. If they're pretty even wear, then a stock alignment from anywhere will be fine. If they have more wear on the outside, then get an alignment with more negative camber in the front. AI or some other performance alignment shop is where you'd have to go for that since most places will not do anything other than what the computer tells them to.
That's where going to a performance alignment place will help. They can help you make those decisions. A mild performance alignment is often better performance AND better wear. It will probably be $20 more than getting aligned at midas or whatever, but if you can get a better alignment than factory specs, you'll more than make up that money in tire life and some extra smiles in the corners. Again, let your worn tires be your guide. Look closely at the tread and where it's wearing most and how severely it's different from inside to outside of the tire. I use specs to get me pretty even wear. If you want even better performance, you can go another few 10ths of a degree camber and get better performance and similar wear to a factory alignment, but wearing out first on the inside (similar wear amounts, but factory is outside and performance alignment will wear inside)
A lot of "the correct" alignment depends on your mix of driving. Factory alignments are for people who drive on the freeway and basically never take a corner hard. For them, the factory alignment provides pretty even tire wear. The more hard driving you do, the more negative camber you need to keep tire wear even.
Most places won't align you to anything but factory specs, which I think are -0.5 Front / -1.0 Rear camber.
The factory settings were killing the outside of my tires. I get MUCH better wear with -1.1 Front / -0.7 Rear and regular rotation. Performance is also improved pretty significantly. Normally you won't be able to adjust rear, I have adjustable rear lateral links that allow me to go a little less negative in the rear to help the rear move a bit easier. With that I wear a little more on the inside in the front and a little more on the outside in the rear. Regular rotation keeps tire wear pretty even, but my drivers sides always wear out first due to the freeway on/ off ramps always being a right turn.
Look at your tires and use them as a guide for your alignment. If they're pretty even wear, then a stock alignment from anywhere will be fine. If they have more wear on the outside, then get an alignment with more negative camber in the front. AI or some other performance alignment shop is where you'd have to go for that since most places will not do anything other than what the computer tells them to.
That's where going to a performance alignment place will help. They can help you make those decisions. A mild performance alignment is often better performance AND better wear. It will probably be $20 more than getting aligned at midas or whatever, but if you can get a better alignment than factory specs, you'll more than make up that money in tire life and some extra smiles in the corners. Again, let your worn tires be your guide. Look closely at the tread and where it's wearing most and how severely it's different from inside to outside of the tire. I use specs to get me pretty even wear. If you want even better performance, you can go another few 10ths of a degree camber and get better performance and similar wear to a factory alignment, but wearing out first on the inside (similar wear amounts, but factory is outside and performance alignment will wear inside)
A lot of "the correct" alignment depends on your mix of driving. Factory alignments are for people who drive on the freeway and basically never take a corner hard. For them, the factory alignment provides pretty even tire wear. The more hard driving you do, the more negative camber you need to keep tire wear even.
Last edited by Concillian; Jan 26, 2010 at 11:42 AM.
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Just FYI - there is almost no mark-up on tires; A good profit margin for a shop is 20% over cost. Don't expect huge discounts from anyone
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Thanks for the tip guys.
I will be swapping out the tein s-techs that came with the car for some RCE blacks this week. So, after i slap those on and the new rubber i will be getting my alignment...
I will be swapping out the tein s-techs that came with the car for some RCE blacks this week. So, after i slap those on and the new rubber i will be getting my alignment...
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+1 for this since ive been seeking new tires as well. thanks!
one extra question though.
i assume its always alignment then slap on the new tires? or does it not really matter?
one extra question though.
i assume its always alignment then slap on the new tires? or does it not really matter?
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