long story short finally got the engine back into the car after it has been "resting" for the last year but now put it all together but the clutch does not return after being pressed...

looked over all solid and rubber hoses no leaks...

looked over all connections no leaks or cracks anywhere...

looked over master cylinder no leaks...

looked over and then took apart slave cylinder no leaks here either all seals look to be in order...

tried bleeding the system as the fluid looked dirty and i introduced air while taking the slave cylinder apart...

i have had someone assist me in using master to pump air out... no dice pedal never comes back...

i have tried using a using a small vacuum pump on slave to pull out any air... still no dice...

starting to run out of ideas on what to do...? any one with more experience on this care to chime in....?

 

Clutch fork?

 

Try removing the banjo to the slave and having someone pump the clutch a few times to see if it's just pushing a little. You should be able to remove the master and hand prime it on a bench if it won't it's probably a bad master.

 

i had pulled them both out and hand primed it and it was working ok outside of the car but as soon as i placed it all back into the car the slave piston was pulling out too far and started leaking from the dust boot... still had the pedal to the floor problem though... im going to be taking it out and retry to bleed it but its driving me crazy now...

 

darn that sucks sounds like its time to get a new slave cyl and while your at it you might want to get a steel braid hose.

 

Even if the slave piston seals are good can the slave go bad?

I also just noticed if you pull the dust boot off and press the clutch down the piston first retracts and then extends.

Is there some specific way of bleeding the clutch system? I do know you need to clamp the slave so the piston so doea not come out... Is there anything else...?

I'm going to try bench bleeding it one more time if that won't work I'll be looking into getting a new slave cylinder...

 

You've made sure the clutch fork and throw out bearing are operating correctly?

You might also need to adjust the clutch pedal linkage.

 

When you bleed it, i learned that its best to slowly back out the clutch after you bleed it. What i did was used my hand to release the clutch slowly

Pump 5 times, hold down, release oil (clutch will go in) hold it down, tighten the bleed nipple, slowly release clutch with hand.

 

If it's extending too far are you sure that the pressure plate ring hasn't snapped that holds the release bearing? Take the boot out of the trans and have a look in there.

 

If your throwout bearing is slid on backwards it wont engage properly and the pedal will drop to the floor the first time you press it in. Pull the dust boost off and shine a flash light in there to make sure thats not the case. It happens aloooot to people.

 

Figured it out, the collar was not catching it was damaged somehow when I took it off... Anyways, I had bought that ACT monoloc and new ACT TOB... And as it turns out the monoloc and TOB do not snap into each other by moving the clutch fork... I had to snap TOB into the monoloc and pressure plate and then mount up to transmission... Then fit the clutch fork into the TOB through the boot opening... Kind of a pain but it worked out and pedal is back to working condition... Almost done with the car so I can test it all out... Thanks all for the assistance it was driving me nuts trying to figure it out...