I was just about to say you don't need an uppipe but looks like 4 people beat me to it.

 

That's more than enough for me to get a the up pipe...

3-5 Whp, 3-5WTRQ and smoother power band AND reliability????

Up pipe is pen'ed in.

And Braille > Odyssey...
Braille has longer lasting and more powerful batteries of the same class in comparison.

 

I suggest you look for used parts. New autoparts are a waste IMO

(a pipe is a pipe damet)

 

I fell uncomfortable buying used things when it comes to the automotive world.

 

As much as it pains me to say it man, but for all the money you are putting into your car, have you thought about an evo...?

 

What about the Evolution MR?

 

I'd do the turbo swap/tune and call it a day.

 

I haven't seen a whole lot on it, could you provide any back up info? Also, I thought since you're saving weight you're probably getting any big sound system, so power isn't really neccessary other than cca's which the Odyssey has.

 

My mistake, I was reading too fast and jumped to conclusions.

 

if you car is going to be like that, then change the high performence ALL SEASON tires to SUMMER tires. because all that is a waste if you dont have some good tires

 

I'd like to kindly critique your list if you don't mind

Weight reduction
- you forgot about the front subframe, that is like 8 bolts to remove (after removing the underbody plastic) and saves ~25lbs (?)
- Seats cost about the same as a flywheel, the STI's take to LW flywheels well
- CF driveshaft. um I can't 100 percent confirm this but on inertial dynos cars seemed to have gained 20-30whp... there's a huge thread on www.iwsti.com under the drivetrain section.
- the above two depend on whether you go drag racing, lightening rotating mass creates some problems for launching but John Sheppard's Fastest-DSM-in-the-world has a CF driveshaft




Performance
- one of the things with the list you have is it comprises of a lot of "small things" that you will actually have to REMOVE LATER ON if you choose to upgrade further
- for example, the intake, the heat shield (which is not necessary - you should get some thermotec wrap instead, more effective than an aftermarket heatshield which pretty much does nothing the stock can't do - except some can accomodate bigger turbos, but you can just mod your stocker),
- If you go rotated mount (for 500+ hp) you'll get rid of the uppipe and downpipe you currently buy



another thing with the bunch of small things on the list is that realize you could have an 8cm 49lb/min bolton turbo for about 1100 bucks. You can basically bolt that on with your aftermarket exhaust and recommended inlet and TGV deletes (contact Crucial Racing)... and other supporting's, and run 500 horsepower on a pump 100 octane map. Cause Headers at 800 bucks are really expensive for what you get. (don't forget you can sell your stock vf39)

Trust me, the lag of a bigger turbo on a 2.5l is not bad. On the 2.0l wrx/EVO we might be debating whether we want to lose lowend, but it's not bad on a 2.5l

So you really have to ask yourself, do you want to hit the big hitters first or go marginally - because you've listed a lot of stuff that doesn't make THAT much difference in your performance section, and a LOT of wrx owners make that mistake of upgrading small stuff that adds up to getting small performance improvements where they could have gotten huge gains elsewhere



Just my .02

 

I agree. That $800 would be way better spent towards a new turbo than to the perrin header.

Some other things I would consider:
- aftermarket struts/shocks
- Whiteline ALK or the Perrin equivalent
- steering rack bushings
- turbo inlet pipe
- summer tires over all-seasons (you have a beater anyway)
- kartboy short shifter / bushings