Not sure whare to poast this (move it if needed)
I am working on a turbo kit for my 2.5 rs 2000 it uses a MAF and when it reads boost ya get a fuel cut (normal stuff) I am wondering can I get a voltige clip to trick the ECU and then run an SAFCII to add more fuel to the car or will I have to run a stand alone ? I know that a standalone is better but I dont want to pony up for it until I get my STI block in place down the road. Also I am going to be running 4 to 6 LBS of boost until I get the new bottem end. Also I am bacing my kit off the ludespeed kit same turbo and a simmiler IC.
Any help would be greatly appretiated.

PS. (can somone PM me about whare the spell checker it on here I am sick of cutting and paisting in to word to check spelling.)

 

I would advise going to the standalone now, as that can help you avoid needing the new short block sooner rather than later.

 

VC2 voltage clamp and a RRFPR should do it.

However a standalone is awful nice.
Or you could double your injector size and get a bigger MAF (twice as big). However, if this occurs when you hit boost, it sounds like a MAP problem. MAF should only give you a problem when your airflow exceeds it's max setpoint. At low boost at a lower rpm you may not be exceeding that airflow rating. If it occurs right as you hit boost regardless of rpm it sounds like a MAP high voltage.

Because MAF has nothing to do with boost. Only Airflow, which is indirectly related to voltage output based on boost.

 

iirc, the 2000 2.5RS's come with MAPs (Manifold absolute pressure) sensors, not MAFs.

So a voltage clamp + rrfpr should do the job.

I'd recommend going standalone though, especially if your planning on building up your bottom-end anyway. Do it right from the beginning.

 

Jeez, how did I miss that? You're absolutely right, a 2000 RS uses a MAP. But I still think it's better to go with the standalone sooner rather than later.

 

Thanks for the info the prob is that I cant really afford a standalone for some time and the other thing i no one around me with in 4 hours can tune it got a friend with a wide band o2 and track access to basic tune. I liive in a section of colorado with not many tuners but some old schoolers and no places to dino and the local shops I dont trust.

 

There's an all wheel drive dyno at MAC autosports, and there are some Subaru enthusiasts who can definitely help yo out in the area. Ask around the local forums on clubwrx.net and RMIC on nasioc.

 

If you don't want to do a standalone, I have a split second FTC1 that I used to use with my stock ECU. It's essentially a 3D programmable MAP sensor with boost timing retard. It's only got 7 or 8 wires to wire it up and you can run bigger injectors and not use a RRFPR. I ran 550cc injectors from RCeng on my suby with 11lbs of boost and no IC (and a bent cam- another story) to clock a 13.2 @ 102MPH. That was with the stock ECU.
I recently purchased a standalone and I'm even happier.
The FTC1 could be yours for 400 bucks shipped. It comes with the windows software to tune it. I can include a bunch of maps for 550cc injectors and for stock injectors with a RRFPR.

 

A RRFPR and a voltage clamp should work pretty well for you, as it has for many people. The AFC definately won't do you much good since your ECU will learn around it (it's only useful for 98-99 ECUs). This all has been covered before.

If you don't like the idea of using a RRFPR, your only other good option besides standalone is a Greddy E-Manage, which is priced similar to an AFC, but has much more features and has been used successfully by several RS-T owners. It also allows you to adjust timing, which an AFC obviously does not, and is more effective than an AFC since it adds fuel by adjusting the injector duty cycler, as oppose to modifying the MAF signal, so there are no negative side effects to your timing.

Search around for more info.

jonathan