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When converting to speed bleeders...

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Old Oct 6, 2003 | 06:31 PM
  #1  
inthedeck's Avatar
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When converting to speed bleeders...

Is there anything to be aware of, beyond the flare nut wrench, to prevent stripping, the torque for tightening the new bleeders, etc.

When I take off the old one's, will there be substantial fluid that comes gushing out, or is it slow enough, that air won't go inside the caliper?

When changing to the speed bleeders, once the old one's are off, does this have to be a relatively quick process? or will something go wrong if I drop one, and apply a different one? so that I can take a few seconds to clean the bleeder that falls on the floor? etc.

And as for rotors, I figure once the old one is removed, all I would have to do is install the new pads into the calipers, then put the rotor back on, clean it (thoroughly), and then reattach the caliper with the proper torque settings?

As for stainless lines, I unattach the line closest to the chassis, then plug that side up, while I take apart the other side? and reattach accordingly?

Lastly, should I not even bother doing this myself? I don't think I am incapable of changing/bleeding/breaking in the new brakes, but I would rather not screw something up, and pay even more to have it fixed.

Any suggestions? And please, only serious responses...and honesty.

Thanks,
i.
Old Oct 6, 2003 | 06:42 PM
  #2  
Kevin M's Avatar
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Car Info: 1993/2000/2001 GF4 mostly red
Just remember the new bleeders take hardly any torque. Put the tiniest little wrench you can find on there, and tighten it with no more than 2 fingers. Make like Elton John at a tea party with that thing. Errr, ok, maybe not. But don't overtorque it, it takes like 4 ft./lbs. That means if you can feel it snug, it's there.
Old Oct 6, 2003 | 07:00 PM
  #3  
inthedeck's Avatar
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curious...

but do you have any other answers to the other questions?

I mean, I don't mind getting dirty here, but want to know that I am not gonna screw things up. I would rather have someone help me out, versus me not doing something right, and ending up never writing on this board again, alongside a totalled vehicle.

Thanks for the info. on the bleeders...I have read quite a bit on how fragile they are.

Later,
i.
Old Oct 6, 2003 | 09:14 PM
  #4  
Kevin M's Avatar
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From: Reno, NV
Car Info: 1993/2000/2001 GF4 mostly red
Re: When converting to speed bleeders...

Sorry, I got in a hurry. Here ya go:

When I take off the old one's, will there be substantial fluid that comes gushing out, or is it slow enough, that air won't go inside the caliper?
There will be some leakage, but hey... that's why you just installed bleeders. Bleed them.

When changing to the speed bleeders, once the old one's are off, does this have to be a relatively quick process? or will something go wrong if I drop one, and apply a different one? so that I can take a few seconds to clean the bleeder that falls on the floor? etc.
No worries. Worst that wil happen is you get a little more air in the caliper... then you bleed them.

And as for rotors, I figure once the old one is removed, all I would have to do is install the new pads into the calipers, then put the rotor back on, clean it (thoroughly), and then reattach the caliper with the proper torque settings?
Don't forget to properly bed them in. https://www.i-club.com/forums/showth...din+OR+breakin

As for stainless lines, I unattach the line closest to the chassis, then plug that side up, while I take apart the other side? and reattach accordingly?
No need to plug it up. Just make sure you catch it all in a can or something and KEEP IT OFF YOUR PAINT. Brake fluid strips paint like nothing. In fact, changing lines is a very good excuse to get good fluid. I recommend Ate Super Blue Racing or Motul, if you can find it. Change out your fluid while you do all this. By the way, you will notice a tremendous upgrade in your brake performance.

Lastly, should I not even bother doing this myself? I don't think I am incapable of changing/bleeding/breaking in the new brakes, but I would rather not screw something up, and pay even more to have it fixed.

Yes, go for it. There's not much you can really screw up here as long as you are careful. As long as you can remember to tighten everything down properly, there's nothing to fear.
Old Oct 22, 2003 | 06:53 PM
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inthedeck's Avatar
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again...

thanks for all the replies.

I decided to go the stop tech route, and had them installed. I know, I know...but I couldn't refuse the deal on the whole package installation.

Now that I have had them for a little while, I can tell that the brakes really help the cause. I dunno if it's cause the old brakes were worn, or whatever, but the new ones, I feel are a nice improvement.

They do require a bit getting used to...and it definately seems that the people behind me are showing up pretty quickly in the rear view mirror, but hey, at least I know that the brakes are doing a good job.

The ABS modulation is interesting (the brakes seem like they can actually 'hold' the car), and even the 'measly' two piston calipers seem like they can handle the instantaneous response of the brakes, during initial bite, as well as slowing down at highway speeds.

I was suprised that I got about 38K miles with the stock brakes...and they weren't really that bad once out. I mean, they went through some tough times, but nothing worth writing home about (if brakes could write).

Yes, the pads dust, but hey, what to tell ya. Maybe once the pads wear out, I would go with something different. For now, the ultimates seem to keep me thrilled, alongside the rotors, and the lines.

Enjoy...and thanks to all. I am sure I will enjoy the new found interest for braking. Speed kills, but no one said being able to stop was a bad thing.

i.
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