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Terrible noises from front left rotor!

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Old Aug 14, 2005 | 04:08 PM
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Terrible noises from front left rotor!

just did a pad and rotor change today and now the front driver is making all types of noise. the rotors are slotted and the pads are axxis metal masters. its super loud at slow speeds and it sounds almost like i'm using a lathe. i may just take it apart and rebuild it, but is there something else i should consider??
Old Aug 14, 2005 | 06:19 PM
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By your description it may be that something that is making contact where it shouldn't be. Do you see anything amiss on the inside (caliper side) of the wheel? Does it make the sound only when the brakes are being applied, or all the time when in motion?

I would suggest taking that side apart immediately and not drive it until the cause is found.

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0==WW==0
"…axles of evil…" - george w. bush
Old Aug 15, 2005 | 07:54 PM
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that problem was fixed thank god!! turns out a piece of the dust shield was making just enought contact with the back of the rotor to cause the worst sound possible. go fig
Old Aug 20, 2005 | 11:25 PM
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how likely is it to have a warped rotor out of the box? for some reason, i noticed after a few days, that when i brake at slow speeds to a complete stop, the pedal pulses. the steering wheel doesn't shake, doesn't pull, it just pulses at slow speeds. what else would cause that besides a warped rotor?? it doesn't seem like a abs problem, the isnt any noise. maybe air in the line after a failed attempt at steel braided lines??

Last edited by taerron; Aug 20, 2005 at 11:29 PM.
Old Aug 21, 2005 | 12:43 AM
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Origami posted by taerron
how likely is it to have a warped rotor out of the box? for some reason, i noticed after a few days, that when i brake at slow speeds to a complete stop, the pedal pulses. the steering wheel doesn't shake, doesn't pull, it just pulses at slow speeds. what else would cause that besides a warped rotor?? it doesn't seem like a abs problem, the isnt any noise. maybe air in the line after a failed attempt at steel braided lines?
Chances of brand new warped rotors are not likely. The surfaces are machined to specification. This can be checked at a dealership or competent auto garage that follows the factory guidelines for measuring runout of the brake rotor on the car using a dial indicator gauge.

Air in the lines usually presents itself as 'soft' or 'spongy' pedal feel, or in some extreme cases with the pedal going to the floor while not applying the brakes hard enough to stop the vehicle. Have you opened up the brake hydraulic system to try to install braided steel lines, or replace brake fluid? Did you follow the factory procedure of bleeding the brakes?

How did the dust shield happen to make contact with your brake rotor? The dust shield is not disturbed when replacing rotors and pads.

If you are having this many problems with your brakes, I suggest taking it to a qualified shop so that you don't compromise your safety. The dust shield issue and "failed attemp at steel braided lines" installation are situations that don't usually occur.

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0==WW==0
"…axles of evil…" - george w. bush
Old Aug 21, 2005 | 03:09 AM
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not sure about the dust shield rubbing, but it did. as for the failed install on the brake lines, that was done at just brakes, a known brake shop. the steel braided lines didn't look like they were meant for the car and they leaked even before the brakes were bled. i took the brake lines back to the shop that i purchased them from and asked questions about them and was assured that they work and no one has ever had issues like this. the shop asked why i didn't let them do it, personally, i really don't think it would have mattered where i was.... they just didn't work.
Old Aug 21, 2005 | 09:35 AM
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You can also perform a crude check of the rotors for warping by placing a straightedge across the machined areas. It won't be as precise as using a dial indicator with a magnetic base but you will be able to spot obvious defects.

--
0==WW==0
"…axles of evil…" - george w. bush
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