Which sway bars are better / and why
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Which sway bars are better / and why
OK, if there is another thread that all ready covers this, please point me in the right direction.
If not, here's what I'm looking for. I have an '03 wrx wagon. I just changed the struts / springs to sti take-offs. I'm looking to get sway bars (probably rear first) but I don't know which ones are the best performance wise and or money wise.
My car is a daily driver that I'm looking to do a few track-days and or auto-crosses with. So many choices out there. Which are the best combination of performance and savings. Also, do I need to get the end-links as well? Why? And last but not least, do I need to get the fronts at the same time as the rear or can that wait a bit??
Thanx, any input would be appreciated.
Joe
If not, here's what I'm looking for. I have an '03 wrx wagon. I just changed the struts / springs to sti take-offs. I'm looking to get sway bars (probably rear first) but I don't know which ones are the best performance wise and or money wise.
My car is a daily driver that I'm looking to do a few track-days and or auto-crosses with. So many choices out there. Which are the best combination of performance and savings. Also, do I need to get the end-links as well? Why? And last but not least, do I need to get the fronts at the same time as the rear or can that wait a bit??
Thanx, any input would be appreciated.
Joe
https://www.i-club.com/forums/suspension-handling-brakes-195/best-swaybar-endlinks-coil-over-setup-72428/
You can look at this old thread which may help a bit.
If you want to spend money there are all kinda ways for suspension.
You can just get a sedan rear sway which is a 20mm and is fine for the wagon.
After many suspension upgrades later...I would say go ahead and get endlinks for both front and rear, rear sedan swaybar, and whiteline steering rack bushings.
Then if you need more replace any of the other stock bushings with GroupN hard bushings, this would include engine and tranny mounts, strut tops, control arms, laterial links and trailing arms.
Of course springs and struts or coilovers later but that is more money (just saw you already have STi take offs...sry). If you haven't upgraded tires yet put that on the list. Of course you may want to wait until your stock RE's are used up but tires make a big difference.
Check out www.spdusa.com for some other info.
You can look at this old thread which may help a bit.
If you want to spend money there are all kinda ways for suspension.
You can just get a sedan rear sway which is a 20mm and is fine for the wagon.
After many suspension upgrades later...I would say go ahead and get endlinks for both front and rear, rear sedan swaybar, and whiteline steering rack bushings.
Then if you need more replace any of the other stock bushings with GroupN hard bushings, this would include engine and tranny mounts, strut tops, control arms, laterial links and trailing arms.
Of course springs and struts or coilovers later but that is more money (just saw you already have STi take offs...sry). If you haven't upgraded tires yet put that on the list. Of course you may want to wait until your stock RE's are used up but tires make a big difference.
Check out www.spdusa.com for some other info.
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Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 723
From: Nor Cal
Car Info: 05 WRX Wagon
not to state the obvious but...
Hey Joe,
I highly recommend getting used parts from fellow i-clubbers. I picked up a whiteline rear adjustable swaybar and perrin endlinks in excellent shape for under $100. You can find great deals when other people part out, which seems to be all the time. As lowball said, tires make a huge difference in the ride and cornering ability of the car. I actually have to work to make my re70's squeel for more than a second, not to meantion they hold an amazing line even when pushed. I have a set of summer and winter wheels and tires. I also recommend getting a rear sway bar that's adjustable reguardless of brand, although I am growing partial to Whiteline's products. I'd rather be able to adjust more then less according to my driving needs on the track or as I pick up other suspension components to complement the bars. I would also recommend rear differential locking bolts. It's a $30 mod that takes 5 minutes to install; it's well worth it as the diff is locked to the subframe and the ride feels tighter. I have enjoyed an noticable imporvement taking corners at high speed in my wagon. Good luck with your decision.
Ben
I highly recommend getting used parts from fellow i-clubbers. I picked up a whiteline rear adjustable swaybar and perrin endlinks in excellent shape for under $100. You can find great deals when other people part out, which seems to be all the time. As lowball said, tires make a huge difference in the ride and cornering ability of the car. I actually have to work to make my re70's squeel for more than a second, not to meantion they hold an amazing line even when pushed. I have a set of summer and winter wheels and tires. I also recommend getting a rear sway bar that's adjustable reguardless of brand, although I am growing partial to Whiteline's products. I'd rather be able to adjust more then less according to my driving needs on the track or as I pick up other suspension components to complement the bars. I would also recommend rear differential locking bolts. It's a $30 mod that takes 5 minutes to install; it's well worth it as the diff is locked to the subframe and the ride feels tighter. I have enjoyed an noticable imporvement taking corners at high speed in my wagon. Good luck with your decision.
Ben
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From: Houston, Texas "Drive it like you stole it.." 13.034 @ 105.19 mph
Car Info: Aspen White 04 STI, Silver 03 RS (wife's car)
Originally Posted by subabu05
Hey Joe,
I highly recommend getting used parts from fellow i-clubbers. I picked up a whiteline rear adjustable swaybar and perrin endlinks in excellent shape for under $100. You can find great deals when other people part out, which seems to be all the time. As lowball said, tires make a huge difference in the ride and cornering ability of the car. I actually have to work to make my re70's squeel for more than a second, not to meantion they hold an amazing line even when pushed. I have a set of summer and winter wheels and tires. I also recommend getting a rear sway bar that's adjustable reguardless of brand, although I am growing partial to Whiteline's products. I'd rather be able to adjust more then less according to my driving needs on the track or as I pick up other suspension components to complement the bars. I would also recommend rear differential locking bolts. It's a $30 mod that takes 5 minutes to install; it's well worth it as the diff is locked to the subframe and the ride feels tighter. I have enjoyed an noticable imporvement taking corners at high speed in my wagon. Good luck with your decision.
Ben
I highly recommend getting used parts from fellow i-clubbers. I picked up a whiteline rear adjustable swaybar and perrin endlinks in excellent shape for under $100. You can find great deals when other people part out, which seems to be all the time. As lowball said, tires make a huge difference in the ride and cornering ability of the car. I actually have to work to make my re70's squeel for more than a second, not to meantion they hold an amazing line even when pushed. I have a set of summer and winter wheels and tires. I also recommend getting a rear sway bar that's adjustable reguardless of brand, although I am growing partial to Whiteline's products. I'd rather be able to adjust more then less according to my driving needs on the track or as I pick up other suspension components to complement the bars. I would also recommend rear differential locking bolts. It's a $30 mod that takes 5 minutes to install; it's well worth it as the diff is locked to the subframe and the ride feels tighter. I have enjoyed an noticable imporvement taking corners at high speed in my wagon. Good luck with your decision.
Ben
Registered User
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 32
The two bars that I can think of that are different are Perrin's and Hotchkis (Cobb). The Perrin bars are adjustable in the front and the rear. The benifit being more oversteer than most bars. Probably more oversteer than you need, unless you autox all the time. Hotchkis (Cobb) bars are hollow for weight savings, and can be purchesed in sport or competition packages. The difference being that sport should be on par with other bars, and the competiton bars are much thicker than other bars, producing less roll and more oversteer for the track. Both are very spendy sets. If it were me, a daily driver who sees the track 6 times a year maybe, I would just get what ever you get a deal on. Good endlinks would be important, but as long as the rear bar is adjustable, I would be sold. Most bars are the same as long as the company is reputable (ex. Helix, Whiteline, Cusco, etc.)
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From: "It will take time to restore chaos." GWB
Car Info: 72 Vespa with curb feelers
Cusco makes the best bar (OEM curve pattern, OEM quality, and OEM material bushings).
Try and find someone complaing about a cusco bar... doesn't happen unless improperly installed. You will, on the other hand, find many people having probs with other bars.
Try and find someone complaing about a cusco bar... doesn't happen unless improperly installed. You will, on the other hand, find many people having probs with other bars.
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From: sacto
Car Info: '99 2.5rs - Rally Blue
Last edited by svek; Feb 20, 2011 at 11:36 AM.
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