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Best swaybar, endlinks, coil-over setup?

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Old Sep 10, 2004 | 06:56 PM
  #1  
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Best swaybar, endlinks, coil-over setup?

Hi everyone,

Ok....I am somewhat new to the board and I just got my 04 WRX a few months ago. I am interested in upgrading my suspension and I was thinking about going with noltec front and rear endlinks, cusco rear swaybar, and either tein or cusco coil-overs. I have been reading many different threads on this site and on NASIOC regarding this topic and I have not found a definite answer. I have read different things regarding whether the endlink has bushings or spherical bearings and the amount of noise produced by one over the other.......which one makes more noise?......which is more suited for street use?.....will cold weather make one louder than the other? Also, I read that the solid endlinks cause a problem if you use coilovers with them....is this true?......I've read that adjustable endlinks solves this problem, but there is only one brand I know of that makes these......is there anyone using solid endlinks and coilovers who is not experiencing any problems? I know I have alot of questions, but I need to make sure I know what to expect from these parts before I spend the cash. I would appreciate any answers preferably from people who know from first hand experience. Any other additional comments are welcome.

Thanks
Brian
Old Sep 11, 2004 | 01:36 AM
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There really is no "definite" answer. So few people try multiple setups that it's hard to find a straight answer about comparing different brands of the same item.

Endlinks- I personally don't recommend spherical bearings on endlinks. Polyurethane has very little flex, it doesn't wear out like spherical bearings do, and it gives a self-centering effect to the swaybar. They're also usually cheaper. Any good endlink should work with coilovers, since the endlink bolts to your control arms.

Swaybar- basically, all the ones you've heard recommended are good. 20mm is 20mm. The Cusco one works great, go with that if it's what you want.

Coliovers- If you don't open track or autocross, I wouldn't really recommend them. They're a waste of money on a street car. Just get some STi v7 or v8 takeoffs instead. If you do track or autocross, Cusco Zero-2Rs are a good choice.
Old Sep 11, 2004 | 08:03 AM
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hey bansuvs......thanks alot for the input. the only reason I really wanted coilovers was to have ride height adjustability. Plus if I go with the most basic Tein coilovers they are only around $900, which is not too much more than a good set of springs and shocks.....please let me know if I'm incorrect.....I might re-think my setup. Well....looks like I am probably going to go with the endlinks and swaybar for now and take care of the rest of the suspension next spring/summer. Thanks again

Brian
Old Sep 11, 2004 | 06:58 PM
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Originally Posted by yaggi
hey bansuvs......thanks alot for the input. the only reason I really wanted coilovers was to have ride height adjustability. Plus if I go with the most basic Tein coilovers they are only around $900, which is not too much more than a good set of springs and shocks.....please let me know if I'm incorrect.....I might re-think my setup. Well....looks like I am probably going to go with the endlinks and swaybar for now and take care of the rest of the suspension next spring/summer. Thanks again

Brian
IMHO, I'd pay an extra 100$, and get a Ground Control/Koni Yellows or KYB setup. I haven't seen much of this type of combination here. When you order your ground controls, they'll give you any spring rates you want if requested. If not, they'll just give you the 'recommended' rates that they have. As for why I picked Koni Yellows, is the lifetime guarantee. Due to the design of shocks, eventually they will wear out. So, even though you need to cut a set of stock shocks to do so, if and when the shocks blow, you send that assembly to koni, and they'll fix it exactly how you have it and send it back.

Overall, I like that suspension setup a lot, as I don't particularly like any of the preset suspension setups as shown on raven'sblade. So, when i get the $$, that setup will be mine =)
Old Sep 12, 2004 | 07:21 AM
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hey sti-owns.......i'll definitely look into that as an option.....thanks for the suggestion.
Old Sep 17, 2004 | 03:19 PM
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whats a good set up for someone who likes gravel and tarmac? which coilover would you recommend.. (more tarmac then gravel)
Old Sep 17, 2004 | 04:56 PM
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For gravel, you want to go taller and softer. Tein makes a gravel setup, but it's pricy. Your best bet would be a custom setup, with GC sleeves over stock or STi struts. That way you can stiffen things up, and still have clearance and travel for the gravel days.
Old Sep 18, 2004 | 08:29 AM
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swaybars- they really don't vary that much. most of them will get the job done. COBB, PERRIN, CUSCO... i'm trying to get CUSCOs right now.
endlinks- once again, most are pretty good.
COILS- if you want to tweat or tune your suspension, the BASICs are not a good choice. lots of people complain about them because they are not much better than a shock/spring set-up. it depends how much you are willing to spend. i'm getting whatever has a good deal coming along. i think the spring/shock set-up will be softer for sure. oh yeh, lots of people run a full STi suspension. That's pretty good too, just won't lower your car much.
Old Sep 18, 2004 | 11:34 AM
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so has anyone heard of or had a problem with non-adjustable solid swaybar endlinks once the car has been lowered?......thought I read on another board that unless you use adjustable endlinks once you lower there is too much stress on the systerm.....i don't really know.....someone shedding light on the topic would be appreciated.

thanks
Brian
Old Sep 18, 2004 | 02:18 PM
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just to make it clear...the COBB's are not the same as cusco, whiteline or others. They are hollow, lighter and larger in dia then the others. And they come with heavy duty mounting brackets.

if you have an 04 sedan it should have a 20mm rear bar already. So the only difference is going to the be the adjustibility. With the Cusco's and such you can adjust the bar to a more or less progressive setting. If you don't plan on adjusting you can get larger non-adjustable bar like the STi 21mm bar. It all depends on what you want and how you drive.

Also, I kinda don't agree with you BANSUVS on the spherical bearing quote. I had no real problems with my Perrin's when I had them. And others have said great things about PolTec's, which have spherical bearings. The only reason I got rid of mine at the time was because they made the Perrin RSB react much quicker than the stock oem's. And for me, with the wagon I didn't like the snap oversteer that it seemed to be causing.

http://www.poltec.us/Automotive/Automotive.htm

http://www.perrinperformance.com/pro...ks/endlink.htm

I guess you have to try which ones you want and see for yourself.

Lowball

Last edited by Lowball; Sep 18, 2004 at 02:32 PM.
Old Sep 18, 2004 | 04:05 PM
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i knew that a rear sway would make you oversteer more, but i didn't think that it would cause "snap oversteer". is it with a certain kind of combo? so perrin RSB and the poltec ends give that kind of oversteer? couldn't you just adjust the RSB to compensate?
Old Sep 18, 2004 | 05:01 PM
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Originally Posted by escaflowne
i knew that a rear sway would make you oversteer more, but i didn't think that it would cause "snap oversteer". is it with a certain kind of combo? so perrin RSB and the poltec ends give that kind of oversteer? couldn't you just adjust the RSB to compensate?
The Perrin RSB is a 22mm at the softest setting. So, when you add stiffer endlinks it makes the swaybar react quicker and makes the oversteer more. You just have to be carefull and really understand how your car is going to react in different circumstances.

I have a wagon and I had Perrin endlinks and Perrin RSB. It was a bit much for me. I like the car to be a bit more equal both front and rear. Some people don't mind when the rear steps out a bit under cornering. I sold the endlinks and left the bar on the softest/least progressive setting with the oem endlinks and it was just fine.

So, I'm guess I'm saying try the combo that best fits you driving style. You may be ok with just the rear swaybar and oem endlinks. Try it out and see how it feels. Try the different swaybar settings before buying stiffer endlinks.

Lowball
Old Sep 18, 2004 | 05:11 PM
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correct me if i am wrong....but I thought one of the big reasons to buy solid endlinks as opposed to leaving them stock with a stiffer/larger bar is that the bar will most likely end up breaking the oem endlinks.......I know they are also meant to enhance the effect of the larger swaybar.
Old Sep 18, 2004 | 06:33 PM
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Endlinks don't usually break, the mounts do when you go to a 22mm+ swaybar, especially if you still have some body roll from soft springs. If you go to stiff coilovers, you won't get as much body roll and you won't put as much stress on the mounts.

Lowball- I don't think spherical bearings are all that bad, I just don't think they are worth the extra cost and they don't last as long. Metal-to-metal contact will kill them eventually. Just my opinion though, I wouldn't recommend that someone who already has spherical bushings to replace them with polyurethane ones.
Old Sep 18, 2004 | 08:45 PM
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Originally Posted by BAN SUVS
Endlinks don't usually break, the mounts do when you go to a 22mm+ swaybar, especially if you still have some body roll from soft springs. If you go to stiff coilovers, you won't get as much body roll and you won't put as much stress on the mounts.

Lowball- I don't think spherical bearings are all that bad, I just don't think they are worth the extra cost and they don't last as long. Metal-to-metal contact will kill them eventually. Just my opinion though, I wouldn't recommend that someone who already has spherical bushings to replace them with polyurethane ones.
Got ya! Yeah they are a bit more cash. I would have gotten the PolTec ones up front but I never even heard of them until a few months ago. So I ended up with Whitline's up front and then the STi in the rear since I have the STi trailing arms and lateral links.

Are you sure they are "metal-to-metal"? Or should I say which parts are you talking about that are "metal-to-metal"?

I just remember that with my Perrin's that there was some little metal shims that fit into teh spherical bearings to attach to the sway bar. Is that what you are talking about?

Lowball



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