how good are stock brakes?
Guest
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Well...
I can offer you this: I was out at Streets of Willow Springs race track this weekend with the Porsche Owners Club so this is from first-hand experience.
With stock brakes, the friction and amount of negative acceleration is totally acceptable -- for about two to three laps. Then the stock fluid starts boiling, the pedal goes to the floor and things get a bit, um interesting.
So, I too am in the process of "fixing" my front brakes (which are fine for street use). I'm planning on installing braided stainless lines and completely flushing my brake system and replacing the stock fish oil with some high-quality high-temp brake fluid like Super Blue.
With these fairly simple mods it seems the braking performance will be drastically improved. Then again, maybe it'll just uncover some other fault in the system that will need attention next?
Anyway, that's just my <I>too sents</I>...
--BA
With stock brakes, the friction and amount of negative acceleration is totally acceptable -- for about two to three laps. Then the stock fluid starts boiling, the pedal goes to the floor and things get a bit, um interesting.
So, I too am in the process of "fixing" my front brakes (which are fine for street use). I'm planning on installing braided stainless lines and completely flushing my brake system and replacing the stock fish oil with some high-quality high-temp brake fluid like Super Blue.
With these fairly simple mods it seems the braking performance will be drastically improved. Then again, maybe it'll just uncover some other fault in the system that will need attention next?
Anyway, that's just my <I>too sents</I>...
--BA
Switching to Super Blue will just prevent your brakes from fading. Stainless steel brakes lines just change the feel of the brakes. Neither will improve stopping distances. After switching to Super Blue, the next question becomes how many laps can you do before you fry the pads?
By the way, what happens to the brake fluid is that it boils and you get gas in the lines. The pedal becomes mushy and you can't stop. You can bleed that air out of the lines and get them back until you boil the fluid again.
Guest
Posts: n/a
Correct
noWRX,
You're correct. That's why I said that maybe all these changes will do is uncover the next, and potentially most glaring fault.
I did spend numerous breaks between my session bleeding the lines. But as you alluded to above, that only goes so far. And as for the braided lines, improved feel is the goal there and will be a real plus, for me at least.
--BA
You're correct. That's why I said that maybe all these changes will do is uncover the next, and potentially most glaring fault.
I did spend numerous breaks between my session bleeding the lines. But as you alluded to above, that only goes so far. And as for the braided lines, improved feel is the goal there and will be a real plus, for me at least.
--BA
Guest
Posts: n/a
Something not being addressed is the pads.
If you're having problems with brake fade, it's because the brakes are getting too hot (yeah, I know, duh). Pad compound can make all the difference. I did nothing but change from stock pads to Hawk brand for my application (track days) on my Audi Coupe and all of my fade problems vanished. Only downside is I have a lot of brake dust and sparks come off the rotos, which is really cool until the corner workers think my brakes are on fire.
Pad compound helps control the heat and the gases that are created with hard braking, lessens the heat transfer to the calipers, and thus prevents fluid from boiling. Plus, the pad change itself greatly reduced stopping distances.
Just my .02.
If you're having problems with brake fade, it's because the brakes are getting too hot (yeah, I know, duh). Pad compound can make all the difference. I did nothing but change from stock pads to Hawk brand for my application (track days) on my Audi Coupe and all of my fade problems vanished. Only downside is I have a lot of brake dust and sparks come off the rotos, which is really cool until the corner workers think my brakes are on fire.

Pad compound helps control the heat and the gases that are created with hard braking, lessens the heat transfer to the calipers, and thus prevents fluid from boiling. Plus, the pad change itself greatly reduced stopping distances.
Just my .02.
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I think the oe brakes are actually quite capable. I've upgraded fluid to DOT4 (Motul), ss lines and upgraded the pads (Endless CCX front, Endless NAS rear). In addition I've upgraded to the DBA 5000 club spec rotors (two piece), this rotor is designed for motorsports applications. With this setup I am very comfortable on the track or street. If I was visiting the track a lot, I'd consider race pads and replace them at the track.
Big Sky
Big Sky
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Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 270
From: plains of Eastern Montana
Car Info: 04 GGA+
Here's a tutorial going through pad change:
http://www.scoobymods.com/forums/sh...s=&threadid=181
Takes me about 45 minutes for the fronts- that's taking my time. I tend not to rush mechanical things (wouldn't be real good on a pit crew
.
Big Sky
http://www.scoobymods.com/forums/sh...s=&threadid=181
Takes me about 45 minutes for the fronts- that's taking my time. I tend not to rush mechanical things (wouldn't be real good on a pit crew
.Big Sky
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