I just did the install on my Whiteline rear sway bar and links, and the car handles infinitely better already. I got the front bar and links too, and I'm about to attempt the install on that. According to the service manual, step 3 is "remove the front sub frame." If anyone has done this installation, can you verify whether or not it's actually necessary to remove the sub frame? This seems like a big pain, espeically since the car has to be on ramps instead of jack stands. If it's difficult enough to do by myself I might want to just have someone do it for me.

 

You'll need to drop the subframe. A few bolts and it comes right off. Easy job, especially on ramps.

 

Thanks, ConeHead. I went ahead and did the front sway bar install. As you said, not too bad, although I'm still pretty inexperienced with this stuff so it took me a while. I only had one problem: after I got the bar on and the subframe back on, I was tightening down the jack plate using the torque values specified in the service manual that I downloaded from techinfo.subaru.com. I was a little skeptical that a small 12mm bolt could take 50 ft-lbs, but I thought, hey, it's the service manual, it can't be wrong. SNAP! I broke off the bolt head, and the threaded part is stuck up in the hole on the crossmember. Does anyone have a tip on how to remove that broken bolt? I figure it's not a really pressing matter, since it's only one of eight bolts holding on the jack plate, and the broken part is jammed in there pretty tight so it's not likely to just fall out. Also, is there a thread for errors in the service manual? I'd hate for someone else to make the same mistake when they could learn from mine.

 

50 ftlbs, that is alot, maybe on a half inch bolt, your lug nuts are like at 80.
go to sears and get the bits you will need the look like drill bits but they curve the other way, use thar, i for get them name the give them but, just ask the sales person they should know where they are at, sometimes they come in a pack of differrrent sizes so get use it return if you are desperate for cash, but be careful when you are trying to get it out, you do not want to ruin the threads, so if yoou want get a metric tap for 12mm and run it in when you are done, spray some wd 40 on the tap or dip it in oil to run it in, just so it does not catsch and snap off, because theat isa reall ***** to get out. if it needs to be tappd out just turn it in half way the back it off 3/4 way then back it off and so on, to clear out he metal shavings if any, it is not complicated just a pain in the ***.

the tork settings may have been inch pounds check again, because i know with putting in a rear strut bar there are low tork settting for the nuts that you put on the studs from the shock assembly like 14 pounds may be? i have to check but it is like hands tight with a 3/8 ratchet. good luck.