This is what my camber and toe settings are. I haven't gotten an alignment yet. My car is a 04 and lowered with Eibach and I have 18' formula mesh wheels. I am thinking about getting the camber bots for the rear just so my front and rear will be back at stock settings....Still trying to find a place to get my car aligned. This place where I got my estaimate from was gonna charge me about 190 to get my car aligned. He said that he can get the rear aligned without camberbolts my "extending the bolt hole" so he can get my rear to 0. I told him I'll call them back later. I am not too keen on that idea since he was charging 80 bucks for that, since tire rack sells the camber bolts for 25 bucks.

 

Ya don't want the rear at 0....

The stock alignment settings are a joke and the rear can't be adjusted without bolts, unless you let some idiot 'elongate' the holes in the struts which he may destroy if he fubars the job.
Bolts are cheaper, ~$40, than buying new struts if you let idiots destroy them.
SOOOOO.....best bet is get the rear toe at 0 and whatever the camber is live with it(or get bolts)...and do ~1* in front camber and no toe.

I prefer a little(2mm total) toe out in the rear, but you may not.
I also run 2.5* camber front and 2* rear....handles real nice, and tire wear is good too

greddy5....you hit something with the right front...

 

I dont think I hit anything with the front right tire...I just order the camber bolts from Tire Rack. Now all I need to do is fine a place that has I can depend on to do my alignment.

 

That scan of your alignment shows that the right front is 'out'..
it may have come that way, but it is out.

 

Could this be a reason why my steering wheel looks a little crocked?

 

Have we answered the original question, about whether someone who has just installed the Eibach kit over the stock struts needs a realignment?

 

Sorry YellowWRX, didn't mean to hijack your thread from the orginal question.

 

Most likely...

 

The front has camber bolts from the factory. And, Yes the bolts can adjust camber either way.... + or -

Yellow....there is no way to get a bad alignment with stock hardware that will kill your tires unless the toe is set wrong...you cannot get anywhere near enough negative camber to hurt your tires...infact too little or positive camber will eat tires worse than too much negative.
So...max you front negative camber and use the bolts(if you get them...I would) to make each side even camber wise...called cross camber...in the rear and toe = ZERO front and rear.

The AGX's need to be 'broken in' on a mid setting....#2 or#3....for a couple hundred miles to achieve proper service life.
******Make sure to follow the adjustment directions and MAKE SURE that all 4 struts adjusting screws work properly prior to installing the struts...if you have a bad strut that won't adjust, it is better to find out about it before you install them!!!!!!******
Make sure to push the little adjuster screw in(~1/8") when turning them...DO NOT try to turn the adjuster screw without pushing the adjuster screw in first!!!! BE GENTILE with the adjuster screws...there is no need to use any real force to turn them...they will pop back up by themselves...if they do not...just wiggle them back and forth a little until they pop back up(they are spring loaded) flush with the top of the strut shaft.

If you have any more questions on this topic, post them here and I will try to answer them.

1 Lucky Texan....you may be correct....there is possibly a bent tie rod on the right side, front or somthing else....it should be checked out because caster and toe are 'out'.

 

Thanks for the info. I get the alignment/toe done as soon as I get my camber bolts in.