Do Subarus Warp ?
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I HAVE A 1998 SUBARU BRIGHTON LEGACY WAGON. TO ROTORS WARP FREQUENTLY (I HAVE TO HAVE THEM GROUND OR REPLACED ABOUT EVERY 15,000 MILES). THIS HAS BEEN GOING ON FOR YEARS. I HAVE TAKEN IT TO 4 DEALERSHIPS. NO ONE SEEMS WILLING OR ABLE TO FIX IT.
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From: Mann Engineering, Santa Clara, CA
Car Info: 13BRZ, 11FXT, 08T25, 07STI, 02WRX
If you abuse your brakes hard enough, then yes, your chances of warping the rotors increase. Which is why there are big brake kits available for those that are hard on their brakes like me.
@Stoptech
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From: San Francisco, CA
Car Info: 2002 WRX Wagon
Okay, first of all, brake rotors do NOT warp. You people need to educate yourseves so you know what you're talking about. Kim, I'd put money on the fact that the reasons your brakes are "warping" is that you are getting the pads and rotors too hot and then coming to a complete stop and clamping the hot pads on the rotors. This causes pad material to be deposited unevenly on the rotors which leads to the vibration in the brake pedal. Once this happens, the carbon atoms combine with the iron atoms in the rotors to transform into a material called cementite. Once that happens, Blanchard grinding your rotors won't help. The vibration will come back. Once this happens, buy new rotors and start over. You can get both front rotors for a WRX for ~$120, so switch them out and learn how to drive your car properly. And stop using caps.
Go to www.stoptech.com and read the entire technical article entitled "common braking myths." you will learn more than you can imagine.
Go to www.stoptech.com and read the entire technical article entitled "common braking myths." you will learn more than you can imagine.
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But wait there's more
Steppin,
Sometimes if you catch the problem immediately after the deposition event you can reverse the process. If you spin and "put two feet in" then get back on track and pull into the pits and see a nice pad imprint for example, the garnet paper sanding will work. If you get off the deposition before the cementite forms you can recover the rotors. Even a Scotch brite pad on a power tool can get you back in business.
If you drive on the rotors for a month then and have a severe vibration you should then get new rotors.
Another technique that works is what I call "Warp away or Warp be gone" (not that the rotors are warped). If you install a very aggressive pad like Hawk blue compound (9012) and drive around for a couple of days, the 9012 will grind off the deposits.
If you drive on these pads for a couple of weeks you will have no rotors left, so be careful. 20-50 miles of city driving sometimes does the trick. Then remove the 9012 and go back to stock.
The 9012 is very abrasive when cold and that is what grinds down the rotor surface.
The problem starts on street cars with people overheating the pads. Go to a higher MOT pad with the new rotors and you should not have the so-called "warping" problem on the street.
We recommend AXXIS Ultimate or even a Hawk HP+
Sometimes if you catch the problem immediately after the deposition event you can reverse the process. If you spin and "put two feet in" then get back on track and pull into the pits and see a nice pad imprint for example, the garnet paper sanding will work. If you get off the deposition before the cementite forms you can recover the rotors. Even a Scotch brite pad on a power tool can get you back in business.
If you drive on the rotors for a month then and have a severe vibration you should then get new rotors.
Another technique that works is what I call "Warp away or Warp be gone" (not that the rotors are warped). If you install a very aggressive pad like Hawk blue compound (9012) and drive around for a couple of days, the 9012 will grind off the deposits.
If you drive on these pads for a couple of weeks you will have no rotors left, so be careful. 20-50 miles of city driving sometimes does the trick. Then remove the 9012 and go back to stock.
The 9012 is very abrasive when cold and that is what grinds down the rotor surface.
The problem starts on street cars with people overheating the pads. Go to a higher MOT pad with the new rotors and you should not have the so-called "warping" problem on the street.
We recommend AXXIS Ultimate or even a Hawk HP+
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