Has anyone here used or heard about DBA rotors? I'm building an all-Aussie WRX (Whiteline & APS) and DBA is the first Australian rotor maker I've heard of. They have a unique "kangaroo paw" venting that is pretty radical looking. I don't track the car (well, does occasional amateur Auto-X count?) so I'm just looking for cheap, good-looking replacements (the DBAs are about $110 a wheel) -- anyone have these installed and have a comment?

500WHP is selling them:

https://www.i-club.com/forums/showth...ght=DBA+rotors

 

I'm using DBA one-piece, slotted front rotor replacements on my MY02 WRX, retaining stock caliper. This rotor may be slightly different from the 4000 series, as the part number on the box is 650. It does use the 'Kangaroo Paw' vane design and has the three temperature-sensing stripes of paint just like other DBA rotors.

I've only been to one track day and the rotors performed admirably, while of course being completely reliable for daily street use. The rotors dissipated an immense amount of heat from my modest mph on the longest straights - after parking the car, I was amazed at being able to feel the heat from the fronts while standing three feet away from the car. Have racked up a good 20k miles on the rotors since then.

Good luck with your all-Aussie car.

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0==WW==0
"…axles of evil…" - george w. bush

 

Thanks for the reply, this is sounding good. Do you think it would negatively affect my brake bias if I got the two-piece rotors for the front, and the single-piece rotors for the rears? The 2-piece rotors are gorgeous, but I can't afford to do them front and rear...

APS CAI and up-pipe are the next mods, as well as more Whiteline suspension pieces.

 

Those two-piece DBAs are nice and the rotor replacements are reasonably priced, too. My understanding is that braking torque changes when the rotor diameter changes, so as long as the rotors are direct replacements and remain OEM diameter, the bias should not change. This is true as long as other things like the calipers and pad materials remain the same.

If the rotors are your first brake mods, I recommend the usual stainless braided lines for the front, as well as good street performance brake pads for front and rear. I also changed out the fluid for Motul RBF 600 synthetic at the same time as the rotors, pads, and brake lines. This makes for nice, consistent braking for a mildly modded WRX.

I think though that for track use (road course) with a VF34 or larger turbo, it's probably wise to bite the bullet and get the full StopTech big brake kit or equivalent, along with 17" wheels and tires to fit around them.

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0==WW==0
"…axles of evil…" - george w. bush

 

I see -- if the rotor surface area and pad contact area are the same, the brake torque should be the same. I wonder if I will need lots of shims or caliper brackets, if the rotor thickness is more or less than OEM?

Yes, I was also planning to get some Hawk HPS pads (I don't want harsher pads that would scratch up my nice new rotors) as well. I am torn about the SS brake lines; I don't want a system that is too "grabby" (this is my daily commute car, and a lot of stop-and-go traffic) and that is the only part of this upgrade that I'd hesitate to install myself. They changed out my brake fluid at 40k miles, so it is pretty fresh still.

I stopped adding power to the car long ago; I'm only doing suspension and handling. I'm adding the up-pipe just to give the turbo a little breathing room, but I already told my shop not to tune for more power; in fact I want them to just increase the safety margins to prevent any detonation. The stock turbo (TD04) is pushing 16.1 psi to about 210 AWHP, and that's plenty for my needs (and about all the stock transmission will handle). I don't ever foresee a need for a BBK, or even just the 4-pot front calipers (even though these are pretty cheap for the 02 models).

 

You shouldn't need to use shims or do anything to accomodate the new DBAs. If they are the correct ones for your car, the rotors are pretty much the same diameter and thickness as OEM. The caliper pistons have quite a range of travel in each brake cylinder. I didn't have any problems with mine, except for the usual pushing the pistons to a retracted position for the new pads.

Also, I found it useful to go to a home builder's supply like Lowe's or Home Depot to pick up a couple of metric capscrews. I inserted them into the threaded openings in the OEM rotors to push against the hub and make removal of the rotors quick (10 seconds!) and easy. Other members swear by tapping the rotors off with a rubber mallet or a hammer but I just followed the service manual recommendation. I forget what thread size the capscrews need to be but I will look for it later today and post it, just in case you or someone else wants to remove the rotors that way.

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0==WW==0
"…axles of evil…" - george w. bush

 

Rotor and pad replacement procedures and OEM rotor dimensions, and DBA 4000 and 5000 dimensions. DBA rotors are spec'd at 1mm larger in thickness and diameter but this shouldn't pose a problem when replacing OEM rotors. If in doubt, ask the vendor or contact DBA.

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0==WW==0
"…axles of evil…" - george w. bush

 

I'm on my second set of DBA rotors. I wore out a set of 650's and now have the 4650's installed. I am very happy with them. Put a set of DBA's on my wifes Outback also.

 

Nice work WW, thanks.

 

+1 for DBA's!

We offer them and I have had a very high satisfaction rate with them.

Thanks,
Jackie
Annapolis Suby
443-837-1422

 

What type of driving did you do to "wear out" the rotors? What pads did you use with them?

 

Just my normal street driving. The 650's lasted about 40,000 miles before the thickness was out of spec. I used Axxis Ultimate pads. My WRX has Subaru 4pot front calipers.

 

That brings up a good point. I never think to check the rotor thickness for wear unless I'm having a problem with my brakes. Normally I just swap out the pads and change out the brake fluid. Inexpensive dial calipers can be purchased at Sears and other tool suppliers. I think these would be precise enough for measuringing rotor thickness.

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0==WW==0
"…axles of evil…" - george w. bush

 

I'm at 60,000 miles on the stock rotors/pads with no signs of wear. I'll check the thickness on them, but what you are telling me makes me think either the DBAs are less durable or the Axxis pads are very abrasive.

 

Could also be driving style. I'm pretty hard on my car. I've never gotten more than 10.000 miles out of a set of tires. (My last TWO sets of tires lasted a combined 14,000 miles, less than 6,000 miles on one set and about 8,000 miles on the other)