So I went to install my Whiteline steering rack bushings today, and things were going well. I got the passenger side in and bolted back up with no problems, but I encountered a pretty major issue with the driver's side. I got the rear bolt off the bracket with no issues, but when I went to remove the front bracket bolt, it took a little extra effort to remove. When I got the bolt all the way out, I found out why.

The threading came out with the bolt. As far as I know, this was the first time this bolt had been removed since the car left the factory, so I can't think of when else it could have been crossed up. If I try to reinstall the bolt, it starts to thread back in, starts to tighten as if it's torquing down, then starts to spin freely in the hole, leaving about an eighth of an inch of play in the bracket on that end.


My question is, how do I fix this? Do I retap the hole and use a larger bolt, or is there a solution that will allow me to keep the stock hardware? There is no damage that I can see to the bolt itself.

 

I think there is a way to retread the bolt and the hole. I am not sure how to do the bolt though. Can you get another bolt and try to retap the whole? By the way, where are the steering rack bushings located?

 

Heli coil.

you need a professional to do it, but that is your best bet. it will keep the stock size hardware and all that.

it's a fairly common procedure that involves drilling the hole out to a larger diameter with a special heli coil thread pattern, and then installing the new "threads" aka the heli coil with another special tool.

do a search on google for a better idea of what im talking about. but if should solve your problem.

~SGD

 

That sounds good, except I'm stuck out in the country now, and getting a tow truck out here isn't exactly all that easy. What I really need is some way to put it back together long enough to get to my mechanic, or something I can do myself.

 

How about a longer bolt with a nut?

 

Just go to sears or a decent hardware store and buy a thread chaser kit/tap and die kit. Bring your stock bolt in and they can match the proper size for your application. you will hopefully have enough material to tap/clean new threads into the existing hole. BTW, leave the passeger side unbolted while doing the drivers side as well as unbolting the lines from the passenger side of the rack. this will give you maximum movement needed to install the driver's side bushing. good luck!

 

This thread is like 3 months old... prior to these 2 posts, the last post was at the beginning of june

If anyone else is doing this tho (or if u still haven't done it rail ) I found the passenger side WAY harder than the drivers side. The passenger side stuck to the steering rack which made it take over an hour to remove and clean off the residue. I strugled a little on the drivers side but after loosening the bolt ravens-blade.com suggested, as well as loosening the passenger side steering rack bushing bolt, I was able to get off the bracket, and it was all insanely easy after that.

Kinda funny cuz I was real worried about the install, especially after I did the passenger side and had such difficulties. Good luck to anyone else who does it, its not that bad!