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HELP! Stripped Bolt (Lug Nut Bolt) Driver's Rear 2002 WRX

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Old 12-22-2003, 01:43 PM
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HELP! Stripped Bolt (Lug Nut Bolt) Driver's Rear 2002 WRX

Hi All,
The car in question is a 2002 WRX. I have 2 stripped lug nut bolts (i think that's what they're called) in my drivers side rear wheel. I tried taknig it apart to fix the problem since I have done it before to the front wheels and it was easy, but on the rear it seems much more complicated. I took it to a loca ldealer and they quoted me $475 to fix it since it is just as much work as to do a rear wheel bearing swap. I do have the subaru technical manuals at home but the section on that has really poor illustrations and vague descriptions. Can anyone do better? Here is how far i was able to go:

I removed the brake caliper and rotor, and disconnected the ABS sensor but i'm now presented with a disk which holds the bolts in place but there isn't enough room to push the bolts out from the back so this disk needs to come out somehow.

I tried removing the center nut that screws on the end of the axle shaft and then attempted to use a gear puller tool but whe more i screwed on the gear puller the further in the axle shaft went so i stopped.

Does anyone know how this disk comes out? Any experience with removing these lug nut bolts would be greately appreciated. Or is someone local can fix this for me for under $100 that would be greately appreciated. Thanks in advance.

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Last edited by Dinko81; 12-23-2003 at 08:41 AM.
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Old 12-22-2003, 03:57 PM
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local to where?
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Old 12-22-2003, 04:55 PM
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Old 12-22-2003, 07:33 PM
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Re: HELP! Stripped Bolt (Lug Nut Bolt) Driver's Rear 2002 WRX

Originally posted by Dinko81


I tried removing the center nut that screws on the end of the axle shaft and then attempted to use a gear puller tool but whe more i screwed on the gear puller the further in the axle shaft went so i stopped.

just keep going, until it comes off.
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Old 12-22-2003, 07:35 PM
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and if u go to the track (not drag strip) get a good set of lug nuts that can take the heat. ive done 4 studs now
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Old 12-22-2003, 11:16 PM
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Originally posted by 4XREX
and if u go to the track (not drag strip) get a good set of lug nuts that can take the heat. ive done 4 studs now
yes.. aluminum is bad...
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Old 12-23-2003, 08:35 AM
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Re: Re: HELP! Stripped Bolt (Lug Nut Bolt) Driver's Rear 2002 WRX

just keep going, until it comes off.
So the shaft will stop moving and the disk assembly will come out?

Also... once I get it off and replace the bolts... how do i get the whole thing pressed back in?

UPDATED LINKED THREADS ABOVE!!!

Last edited by Dinko81; 12-23-2003 at 08:41 AM.
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Old 12-23-2003, 11:12 AM
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Re: Re: Re: HELP! Stripped Bolt (Lug Nut Bolt) Driver's Rear 2002 WRX

Originally posted by Dinko81
So the shaft will stop moving and the disk assembly will come out?

Also... once I get it off and replace the bolts... how do i get the whole thing pressed back in?

UPDATED LINKED THREADS ABOVE!!!

yes, after u have the large nut off use a puller to get the hub off. the shaft will stop moving back. and the hub will start to move out. it will go much further than u think but it works. use the nut to pull it back together.
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Old 12-23-2003, 11:50 AM
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Thanks 4XREX... I'll have to try that when i get the chance. Probably next weekend but i'll post what i find out. in the meantime if anyone else has and tips or pointers let me know!
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Old 12-23-2003, 04:38 PM
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I want to mention that the common way of extracting a wheel stud (or hub bolt, as the factory refers to it) after hub is removed, is to strike it with a hammer. This is not the recommended way to remove a wheel stud! This is akin to installing a harmonic balancer on a V8 engine using a hammer or a mallet - this is a good way to destroy the rubber bond between the inner hub and the outer ring. They make special purpose tools to do these installs.

Subaru expressly states against using the hammer method in the service manual for the reason that you risk warping the unsupported hub. The proper way to remove it is by supporting the hub from underneath and using a hydraulic press to push the wheel stud out, as specified in the factory service manual page DS-29. This can be done at home if you use some ingenuity. Just make certain that the hub is supported from underneath by as much of the flange area as possible. A couple of 4 by 4 blocks with one of them having a hole drilled through it to receive the wheel stud as it comes through might work.

Once you have replaced the wheel stud(s) and are ready to install the wheel/tire assembly, make sure the wheel stud threads are clean and dry. Do not apply anti-seize or oil to the threads. Doing so will result in erroneous torque readings and cause possible wheel stud failure under load. This is specified in the factory service manual on page WT-5. Torque lug nuts to 65 ft lbs., page DS-27.

By the way, I recently purchased new tires to replace my original equipment RE-92s and Costco automatically printed out an erroneous wheel lug nut torque specification on the work order. It stated "90 ft lbs", but it is actually 90 Newton-meters, or approximately 65 ft lbs. I went home, loosened the lug nuts, and re-torqued to specification.

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Old 12-30-2003, 04:50 PM
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Exclamation

I'm about to do it on the 1st! Any last minute info???
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Old 12-30-2003, 04:52 PM
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Good luck!

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