What's going on here?
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Ok, today I had a 30000 mile service done on my '02 sedan (stock). It's been running progressively rougher since about 26000, to the point where I'm hearing the engine louder than normal from the driver's seat. i told the service manager this. Also when I open the hood, stand in front of the engine, and put my ear first to the left side, then to the right, I hear a difference in the lifter sound, like there is more friction on the right hand side. Well, I shelled out $366 for this 30000 service, and it's still there. These are my ideas:
1. spark plugs need changing.
2. computer needs remapping
3. mechanical timing with valves needs adjustment
4. cam tensioner??
I'm thinking of taking the car back to the techs, unfortunately without a CEL it's probably only hearsay. Any other ideas on what to check?
The car also has a slight wheel alignment problem, which the bald outer 1/2" of the entire right front tire can testify to. The whole car pulls a little to the right.
Sounded like a camber/toe-in combination problem on the right front, so the technician did the alignment and gave me a printout of the settings for camber, caster, toe in for front wheels and camber, toe-in for rear wheels. The printout also included what the max and min for spec were. The funny part is that the everything is OK for the entire car except for the left rear camber. These are the specs
-2.25 deg MINIMUM
-1.5 deg Nominal
-.75 deg Maximum.
The actual was 0.0 degrees. The car is better centered on the road, but it still pulls to the right a bit. Does anyone think the cabmer on the rear left tire could be the problem?
Any ideas what this could mean???
1. spark plugs need changing.
2. computer needs remapping
3. mechanical timing with valves needs adjustment
4. cam tensioner??
I'm thinking of taking the car back to the techs, unfortunately without a CEL it's probably only hearsay. Any other ideas on what to check?
The car also has a slight wheel alignment problem, which the bald outer 1/2" of the entire right front tire can testify to. The whole car pulls a little to the right.
Sounded like a camber/toe-in combination problem on the right front, so the technician did the alignment and gave me a printout of the settings for camber, caster, toe in for front wheels and camber, toe-in for rear wheels. The printout also included what the max and min for spec were. The funny part is that the everything is OK for the entire car except for the left rear camber. These are the specs
-2.25 deg MINIMUM
-1.5 deg Nominal
-.75 deg Maximum.
The actual was 0.0 degrees. The car is better centered on the road, but it still pulls to the right a bit. Does anyone think the cabmer on the rear left tire could be the problem?
Any ideas what this could mean???
could be a steering problem. . .
as for the first thing, wrx's have solid lifters don't they? Unlike HLA's solid lifters can require adjustment from time to time, so that could be it.
as for the first thing, wrx's have solid lifters don't they? Unlike HLA's solid lifters can require adjustment from time to time, so that could be it.
Registered User
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 720
From: The Hunted Forest
Car Info: Mazda Protege '02 (Wishing protege has AWD and a H6 twin turbo)
Originally Posted by jdepould
could be a steering problem. . .
as for the first thing, wrx's have solid lifters don't they? Unlike HLA's solid lifters can require adjustment from time to time, so that could be it.
as for the first thing, wrx's have solid lifters don't they? Unlike HLA's solid lifters can require adjustment from time to time, so that could be it.
Possible solutions to clear problem:
Fuel cleaner
Marvel mystery oil additive to losen up lifters
Its all subjective though i can only guess
30K on a stock '02 means it should be smooth as glass, at the peak of its performance, and ready for 100k more, assuming not too much 0-60's. top out runs, etc. Often, in my experience, carbon buildup in the valves can cause lots of roughness. Try 2 things: an oil drain and FLUSH it with light weight oil (don't run it more than a minute or two), then fill with new oil and filter. Then go on a nice quick 50 mile run, running rpms up and down, 2k-5.5 (and gradually more, near red line.) DRAIN and replace oil again! Next, move up to 93 octane for a tank or two. If your Subie is a 87 octane, maybe just a 89 or 91 will help. Use a good standard brand: Chevron, Mobil, Texaco, Shell, etc. If you have a WRX, definitely go for 93 octane. Short, cold runs will goo up injectors, cause carbon buildup, etc. But, with 30K on an 02, none of this should have happened. Do you know a good mechanic? I mean, a young guy with top computer equipment, ASE certification and maybe some racing/rallying experience. Ask around: they are the ones who will take an interest in your problem, even if it's a warranted issue. Let me know what happens: bytewerksjpf@optonline.net
Last edited by nypatrick; Aug 28, 2004 at 02:49 PM. Reason: mistyped a ctrl instead of a caplock!
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