What fluids to use in your Subaru
04-17-2004, 03:05 PM
#16
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Car Info: '00 red impreza RS sedan w/ Borla hdr., Tanabe S. Medallion, P-slots,MSD wires, AEM, AGXs, Eibachs.
Fluids
So, I run all Redline as we are a dealer for them. I believe that their gearoils DO all have the friction mod. that is available separate in them already. This is the crazy thing though, after 15,000 miles I did not really like them. I could feel a lot of ring backlash. So, I switched to what they call their "shock-proof" gear oil (lt.wgth) and man do I love it. Now, if someone could help me with which brakefluid to run (currently Valvoline Synthetic) and PLEASE a good ATF fluid for our tranny, I would be saved. After 150.00 my cost worth of Redline D4 and Merc 3 mix found it to be a waste and thought I broke the car! '00 RS sedan. thanks.
04-17-2004, 11:54 PM
#19
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Originally posted by gianttcr
So, I run all Redline as we are a dealer for them. I believe that their gearoils DO all have the friction mod. that is available separate in them already. This is the crazy thing though, after 15,000 miles I did not really like them. I could feel a lot of ring backlash. So, I switched to what they call their "shock-proof" gear oil (lt.wgth) and man do I love it. Now, if someone could help me with which brakefluid to run (currently Valvoline Synthetic) and PLEASE a good ATF fluid for our tranny, I would be saved. After 150.00 my cost worth of Redline D4 and Merc 3 mix found it to be a waste and thought I broke the car! '00 RS sedan. thanks.
So, I run all Redline as we are a dealer for them. I believe that their gearoils DO all have the friction mod. that is available separate in them already. This is the crazy thing though, after 15,000 miles I did not really like them. I could feel a lot of ring backlash. So, I switched to what they call their "shock-proof" gear oil (lt.wgth) and man do I love it. Now, if someone could help me with which brakefluid to run (currently Valvoline Synthetic) and PLEASE a good ATF fluid for our tranny, I would be saved. After 150.00 my cost worth of Redline D4 and Merc 3 mix found it to be a waste and thought I broke the car! '00 RS sedan. thanks.
Originally posted by Sugo001
what kind of oil should i use for my 4AT
what kind of oil should i use for my 4AT
04-18-2004, 08:29 PM
#20
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Car Info: '00 red impreza RS sedan w/ Borla hdr., Tanabe S. Medallion, P-slots,MSD wires, AEM, AGXs, Eibachs.
consensus
Yep. I heard the 4eat is a bit funny with full synthetics. I just had the tranny flushed with regular ATF and kept that in there. Seems to work all right but man, that tranny sure does suck! Besides the interior falling apart and NO dealer/manufac. support, it is the ONE thing I hate about the car. I don't know about the rest of you with the auto, but mine seems to try to shift to 4th within 50ft or so. Coaxing a downshift makes me look like I'm trying to race the guy in the Cutless Supreme EVERY time! It's either all or nothing. I find I have to autostick the car in order to keep it in the pwrband and it sucks! I wish someone would rewrite the shift code in the ECU for these d%*n things!
05-08-2004, 10:30 PM
#21
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has anyone tried valvoline's ATF 4x4 synthetic blend Dexron 3 in their Auto trans WRX?
I realize that though the thing holds ~10 quarts, you can really only add 4 or 5 without special equipment, so it's best to add something compatible with dino ATF Dexron 3
Any thoughts on Mobil 1 75W90 for the auto's fr and rear differentials?
I agree that factory coolant is most likely best for this radiator.
I realize that though the thing holds ~10 quarts, you can really only add 4 or 5 without special equipment, so it's best to add something compatible with dino ATF Dexron 3
Any thoughts on Mobil 1 75W90 for the auto's fr and rear differentials?
I agree that factory coolant is most likely best for this radiator.
06-18-2004, 03:01 PM
#22
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Originally Posted by meilers
Thanks for the excellent post. However, I'd like to add the following:
Be VERY CAREFUL what engine coolant you use -- it must be completely safe for ALUMINUM ENGINES specifically. There are a few low-cost brands out there (Peak, for one) that contain silicates which can degrade an aluminum radiator and even cause engine block wear. Both my dealer and their lead shop mechanic said WRX models in particular should use the factory Subaru fluid (which they sell in gallong jugs as well) and nothing else, because of this danger. Normally I would be skeptical, but the mechanic pointed out that they could actually make more money selling a brand-name fluid to customers -- they would just rather take the loss and avoid replacing radiators under warranty
For the record, I run factory subaru coolant (which is premixed 50/50 with water) + 1 jug of distilled ionized water + 1 bottle of Redline Water Wetter.
Be VERY CAREFUL what engine coolant you use -- it must be completely safe for ALUMINUM ENGINES specifically. There are a few low-cost brands out there (Peak, for one) that contain silicates which can degrade an aluminum radiator and even cause engine block wear. Both my dealer and their lead shop mechanic said WRX models in particular should use the factory Subaru fluid (which they sell in gallong jugs as well) and nothing else, because of this danger. Normally I would be skeptical, but the mechanic pointed out that they could actually make more money selling a brand-name fluid to customers -- they would just rather take the loss and avoid replacing radiators under warranty
For the record, I run factory subaru coolant (which is premixed 50/50 with water) + 1 jug of distilled ionized water + 1 bottle of Redline Water Wetter.
07-08-2004, 01:15 PM
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Originally Posted by supertek75
I just noticed today that my coolant is running low. Can I just go to a Subaru dealership and purchase a jug of their coolant solution and pour it directly into the coolant tank, or do I have to do a whole flush of my system and pour in the Subaru coolant solutin + the jug of distilled water and possibly the bottle of Redline Water Weter? I know that this is totally a noob's question, but how else are noobs to learn if they don't ask.
07-24-2004, 03:56 AM
#25
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Originally Posted by Tinkerbelbarbie
Any one have any comments on using amsoil? I've always preferred it in my sports cars but now I have a new Baja and don't know what to do with it (except maybe sell it).
Thanks!
Thanks!
I use Amsoil product in my WRX. The exception has been the manual transmission. I use regular dino oil as of right now. That may change in a week or so... I use their ATF for power steering fluid, 5w-30 series 3000 oil for the engine and their 75w-90 gear oil for the differential. I use the stock oem oil filter as it is inexpensive and works very well.
08-11-2004, 09:18 AM
#26
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Anything better?
I use that Castrol Synthetic for High Mileage oil for my 94.. would there be anything better for the engine than that?
Transmission is usually done by my subaru mechanic... so i have no idea what he uses.
Coolant: cheap walmart stuff..
Transmission is usually done by my subaru mechanic... so i have no idea what he uses.
Coolant: cheap walmart stuff..
08-20-2004, 12:22 PM
#27
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I use Mobil 1 synthetic all the way; 10w-30 engine, 75-90w trans and rear diff. One thing I notice though is when I'm in a stop and go traffic, I start grinding into 4th gear and sometimes in going into 1st gear too. I have to ease it into 4th but in freeway speed where I guess the transmission is getting cooled, grinding dissappears. I also use Preston pre-mixed coolant and add Royal Purple water wetter. I guess I'm just lazy.
imporacer
imporacer
08-20-2004, 12:30 PM
#28
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Switch to a less slippery gear oil and you'll get rid of those grinds. There's just no reason for a modern transmission to grind when shifting.
08-20-2004, 01:17 PM
#30
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I did my coolant change recently and used the Peak Global 50/50 premix. No compatibility issues and no need to add water. Whatever coolant you use should be phosphate and silicate free, so check carefully. You can't just use whatever is on the shelf, it may "work" in the short-term but over time may cause problems.