Im just going to asume my car is drive by wire. With that in mind, would something like a WRX hood shuving air into the wire make any bit of difference?

 

Huh???

 

I want to know if there is honestly any power gain using the hood scoop as an intake.

 

You don't want to raim air a turbo car. Just give it cold air and you are good.

What does drive by wire have to do with your scoop?

 

I'm not sure there is. I would think that if there were power to be made there someone would have put something out.

You can get some power gains and throttle response increases (with CARB legal goodness) from the Injen CAI. We have that on our 2.5RS.

 

i made a ram air intake for my BG5. all i did was buy an air duct hose ($20), adapter ($5?), and velocity funnel ($13, may not have been necessary though) from Autozone. i ran the duct hose from the factory air box, through the fender, and into the front bumper. the factory air box does have a K&N drop in filter, and this set up seems to work really well.

by the way, out of curiousity, why is a ram air not good for a turbo set up?

 

I don't think it's bad, it just won't help much since the turbo condenses the air so much more than a ram-air setup does.

 

well true, but at speed, the ram air would help to increase the air flow more than a conventional intake design would. more airflow would mean more air to compress, which should mean more power. at least, that's how it would seem to me. i know that with my old civic, a short ram was better for high RPM power than the cold airs that were available because the short ram has higher velocity air flow.

the only problem i can really think of with using the hood scoop for a ram air is the piping/ducting that would be needed. it would be a bit of a hassle to get that all set up without having it sit directly on top of the engine, and without a lot of wierd bends and twists.

 

Because if not done right, it will do more bad then good. If the ducting cannot provide sufficient flow through, you will end up with a pocket of high pressure in front of the scoop and will actually loose airflow. Since the turbo inlet is very small on Subaru's, you for sure will end up with that pocket. That is why it is bad. Unless your turbo has 3-4" inlet, you are wasting your time. And, to properly design a ramair system, you will need more than a trip to Pepboyz.

Connecting ducting to the stock airbox is not ramair. Thats just coldair.

 

check this out

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=2180560

 

Wow...2 turbos and a super...I wonder how long that'll last...

 

Thats cold air. Because the scoop is not sealed to the filters.

 

I don't have a turbo car i have an RS. I guess it would help if i would provide all the information

 

Here's the problem with ram air for either forced induction or normally aspirated cars, either carbureted or computer-controlled fuel injection:

It's hard to tune a ram air intake car to maximum potential because you can't simulate the ram air effect at high speed while at rest. We can't assume that air flow over the front end sheetmetal and into the hood scoop is a smooth, continuous stream of air. Air flow over surfaces, especially uneven surfaces, is dynamic and often turbulent. The factory intake of a Subaru is factory calibrated for air flow past the MAF sensor. Using ram air may cause uneven fluctuations in air flow and cause the MAF to incorrectly read the volume of incoming air, and subsequently the correct amount of fuel to be injected into the intake ports.

¹Ram air can provide minor HP improvent at very high speed: +1.2% at 100 mph, +2.7% at 150 mph, and 4.8% at 200 mph. But according to Colin Campbell, ramming to get this small power addition also creates problems. Unless the ram air is fed to all parts of the carburetors, including the float bowls and all vents, carburetion is disturbed, especially at low speeds. His book, The Sports Car - Its Design & Performance states that a cold air box arranged to feed the carburetors should be designed without ram air effect by allowing free flow of the air out of the box feeding the carburetor filtered intakes.

Cold air will give you more improvement than ram air because 1% HP is gained for every 10°F temperature drop. This assumes that the mixture (air/fuel ratio) is adjusted to allow for the change in mixture density.

¹ source: How to HOTROD Small-block CHEVYS, H.P. Books, 1972

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