check engine light on....for some unknown reason
check engine light on....for some unknown reason
Car: 2002 WRX
Miles: 129,800
Mods: Kartman short shifter, disabled day time running lights
Issue: This morning, while driving from home to work, at about 9 of 27 miles into my commute, light came on for no obvious reason.
Symptoms: Nothing else changed....car still ran fine, no other lights coming on, no change in motor sound, feel, etc.
Tried: Pulling off road, turning car off, and on, hoping it would go away. It did not.
Gas cap is fine.
Questions:
1. Is there an easy way to pull the codes and see what is triggering the check engine light? I know when I had a BMW, I bought a $30 tool from Ebay, it would plug in under hood, and pull codes, reset oil change lights, etc.
2. Where to get the list of codes, asumming I can get a way to pull the codes.
Thanks in advance for any help. DZ
Miles: 129,800
Mods: Kartman short shifter, disabled day time running lights
Issue: This morning, while driving from home to work, at about 9 of 27 miles into my commute, light came on for no obvious reason.
Symptoms: Nothing else changed....car still ran fine, no other lights coming on, no change in motor sound, feel, etc.
Tried: Pulling off road, turning car off, and on, hoping it would go away. It did not.
Gas cap is fine.
Questions:
1. Is there an easy way to pull the codes and see what is triggering the check engine light? I know when I had a BMW, I bought a $30 tool from Ebay, it would plug in under hood, and pull codes, reset oil change lights, etc.
2. Where to get the list of codes, asumming I can get a way to pull the codes.
Thanks in advance for any help. DZ
The WRX is OBD2, so any OBD2 reader will work. There are a variety of handheld units available as well as OBD2-USB interfaces to connect with laptops, PCs, PDAs etc.
Assuming that you get the code, you can google OBD2 to get a list of codes. The scanner may also interpret the code for you.
I bought an interface (www.obdpros.com) for my laptop and downloaded some PD diagnostic software for it. The system works well and shows you all of the codes + realtime data from the engine.
Assuming that you get the code, you can google OBD2 to get a list of codes. The scanner may also interpret the code for you.
I bought an interface (www.obdpros.com) for my laptop and downloaded some PD diagnostic software for it. The system works well and shows you all of the codes + realtime data from the engine.
You need an OBDII code scanner to check it. Most auto part store chains will actually check this for you for free. Ones like Advance Auto Parts and AutoZone. Its probably an emissions control device like the o2 sensor. If your car does not start runing poorly its some minor sensor that will generally only effect efficiency, emissions, and possibly peak power.
The plot thickens......
I did have some issues on the drive home.
I had a couple occasions where I needed the full acceleration, and the car stumbled on me, at two separate times...and by stumbled, I mean foot mashed to the floor, car starts to go, and then seems choked for either fuel or air, and bogs for a second or two, and then runs ,like normal.
Any ideas?
I am gonna try my local Advanced Auto for the OBDII reading this weekend. Thanks.
I did have some issues on the drive home.
I had a couple occasions where I needed the full acceleration, and the car stumbled on me, at two separate times...and by stumbled, I mean foot mashed to the floor, car starts to go, and then seems choked for either fuel or air, and bogs for a second or two, and then runs ,like normal.
Any ideas?
I am gonna try my local Advanced Auto for the OBDII reading this weekend. Thanks.
AFAIK Autozone is the only chain that will read codes for free, others may charge you for the diagnostic time. There are plenty of Autozones in NJ.
When you get it scanned, be sure to get the exact code in Pxxxx format. Sometimes they just tell you something vague like "it's a sensor" which isn't really helpful. With the actual code you can search for troubleshooting information and/or post the code for more assistance.
Also don't let them sell you any parts before you have a chance to find out what the problem actually is.
When you get it scanned, be sure to get the exact code in Pxxxx format. Sometimes they just tell you something vague like "it's a sensor" which isn't really helpful. With the actual code you can search for troubleshooting information and/or post the code for more assistance.
Also don't let them sell you any parts before you have a chance to find out what the problem actually is.
OK, so I finally made my way to my local Advanced Autoparts and had them read the code for me..it was a P0031..and their scanner said....first side, first bank O2 sensor.
I looked up the code when I got home on my Ebay bought manual on CD, and it said O2 sensor too...although I can't tell if its the front sensor the Pre-sensor.
In either case, with not fixing this right away do anything more than make the car not pass a standard emissions test? I am not currently driving the car, but driving the wife's explorer instead. If I can drive the car without worrying about doing any damage..I may start at least driving it part of the time.
Thanks for the help guys. DZ
I looked up the code when I got home on my Ebay bought manual on CD, and it said O2 sensor too...although I can't tell if its the front sensor the Pre-sensor.
In either case, with not fixing this right away do anything more than make the car not pass a standard emissions test? I am not currently driving the car, but driving the wife's explorer instead. If I can drive the car without worrying about doing any damage..I may start at least driving it part of the time.
Thanks for the help guys. DZ
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Car Info: 2005 LGT wagon
DTC P0031 - FRONT OXYGEN (A/F) SENSOR HEATER CIRCUIT LOW INPUT
DTC DETECTING CONDITION
Immediately at fault recognition.
Could be:
1. Bad front A/F ratio sensor.
2. Bad wiring.
3. Bad ECM.
Measure the resristance of the sensor between termminals #1 & #2...should be greater than 10 ohms.
If less, wiring is next suspect.
DTC DETECTING CONDITION
Immediately at fault recognition.
Could be:
1. Bad front A/F ratio sensor.
2. Bad wiring.
3. Bad ECM.
Measure the resristance of the sensor between termminals #1 & #2...should be greater than 10 ohms.
If less, wiring is next suspect.
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