Okay, final installment...apologies for the dissertation

Step #8. Connect that wire coming from the switch to the remaining or only loose end fuel pump wire (the one that goes to the circuit and finally to the power). Use a female connector on the wire from the switch and a male connector on the remaining wire. Shrink tube insulate that puppy. The circuit is now complete. The reason I have a male connector on the wire coming from the power circuit and a female connector on the wire from the fuel pump is to have an emergency way to hook up the circuit if the switch fails. Just a failsafe backup.

To keep all the wires from chafing or disconnecting, I used small zip ties to bundle the wires to other wires or spots. Use some duck tape and tape it down. Whatever.

Step #9. Test the switch. Start the car. If it starts, the switch is in the "on" position. Then, switch the switch to the opposite setting. The car should stall out. Taaaadaaaa, fuel pump is switched off. If the car doesn't start in either setting, you have bad connection someplace. Recheck the circuit. You only have four places that it could be screwed up. The only other problem could be the cheapo switch you bought at Target.

Step #10. If the switch works, finish the install of the switch. Hide it good. Reassemble all the panels. You're in biddness.

The only thing you have to be aware of is that it is a given you will forget about the switch. You'll jump in the car, turn the keys, and it won't start. That's when you slap yourself silly because you forgot (for the 10th time) that you didn't turn on the fuel pump switch. DAMNIT!!! Stupid, stupid, stupid. However, that's the idea. You want the car jacker to think that you're a rotten car owner that poorly maintains his car. Won't start. A more experienced car thief will look for a mechanical fuel cutoff switch under the hood or some other device under the dash or glove box. If the switch is hidden and he doesn't want to spend a lot of time looking, the thief will split to find an easier target. This security mod is a cheap, extra layer of protection. No guarantees.

Now, I could tell you how I've installed a second switch in that same circuit. The first switch is easy to find (car thief thinks "Ah HA!"), but I always leave that one in the ON position. The second switch is buried in the bowels of the car. That's the real one. =======END FORWARD========

Hope that helps. Let me know what you end up doing. Cheers.

 

Let's face it, the best security system you can have is a really good insurance package. Make sure all of your expensive stuff is covered and keep up with your premium payments. If some bastard out there really wants your car bad enough, he'll figure out a way to get it.

 

If anyone wants the mother of all checklists for securing your car, you can find it at this thread: http://www.clubwrx.net/forums/showth...0&pagenumber=1

I just ordered my brake pedal lock

 

ive seen the site you got that from, but i didnt read it thru thoroughly because i thought it was car specific. will that writeup work for our cars? i really have NO idea how to do any electrical work on my car (im only 18 and learning everyday). i looked for sites that have a WRX specific walkthru but no avail.

think you could update me when u get this installed? it would be freakin cool if you could do an installation writeup for others that dont know how to do it

 

I don't see why it wouldn't. My buddy who sent me those directions used them for his Golf R32. The steps refer to general components and locations within a vehicle.

Don't worry, I'm no electrical engineer either. I have a friend who knows how to handle a wire stripper though and he's offered to help with my cut-off switch. I'll let you know when it's done (I pick up the car on June 26).

You can always contact your local Subie dealer. I'm sure they'd be able to refer you to someone or even do the work themselves. Worth a shot. Cheers.