Subaru security or other?
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 17
From: Irvine
Car Info: 03 WRX Wagon
Subaru security or other?
Hey guys,
I just got a new 2003 wrx wagon but opted to NOT install the security system. Do you guys think I can do better aftermarket for security? I know a good theif is going to take the car regardless, I just want to protect the contents of the car more than anything.
Any input would be greatly appreciated!
I just got a new 2003 wrx wagon but opted to NOT install the security system. Do you guys think I can do better aftermarket for security? I know a good theif is going to take the car regardless, I just want to protect the contents of the car more than anything.
Any input would be greatly appreciated!
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 17
From: Irvine
Car Info: 03 WRX Wagon
I'm not so sure I would want my car back after someone's ripped it off and stolen all the contents and parts...I'd rather lose the car completely and just get a new one.
I passed Lojack yesterday when the finance guy offered his schpiel about lojack security and I'm still convinced it's not worth it to recover a car if it's stolen.
I passed Lojack yesterday when the finance guy offered his schpiel about lojack security and I'm still convinced it's not worth it to recover a car if it's stolen.
Registered User
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 258
From: leggtnut on legacygt.com
Car Info: 2006 BSP LGT / 2004 JBP FXT
I think there are both good points and bad points for the stock and after-market security systems. The nice thing about the stock is that all the features will work regardless of the model. Where with a after-market system there are features of the alarm that won't work unless some features of the car are disabled. and some are never able to be turend on.
A good recomendation for a after-market is Clifford. They have a lifetime warranty. So if it ever fails you can just take it back to the place you baught it and they should fix it for free. Also, I have knoticed that most of their systems have the anti-code breaking technology builght in. That means that someone can't sit in the parking lot and grab the code to unlock you car while you are in the store. Also they have a Fule cut off system in some models as well.
I agree that if someone wants the car badly enough they are going to take it regardless of the alarm or not. but the fuel cut off makes it a lot harder for them.
As for a LoJac, I don't recomend it it because it is tepically over priced and doesn't work in all markets. Where I live, LoJac is not here (pacific Norhtwest). So for me it would be a compleat wast of time.
I know that this is a novel, but I hope that this helps you decision.
A good recomendation for a after-market is Clifford. They have a lifetime warranty. So if it ever fails you can just take it back to the place you baught it and they should fix it for free. Also, I have knoticed that most of their systems have the anti-code breaking technology builght in. That means that someone can't sit in the parking lot and grab the code to unlock you car while you are in the store. Also they have a Fule cut off system in some models as well.
I agree that if someone wants the car badly enough they are going to take it regardless of the alarm or not. but the fuel cut off makes it a lot harder for them.
As for a LoJac, I don't recomend it it because it is tepically over priced and doesn't work in all markets. Where I live, LoJac is not here (pacific Norhtwest). So for me it would be a compleat wast of time.
I know that this is a novel, but I hope that this helps you decision.
Guest
Posts: n/a
I was in the same boat as you (ordered my 04 WRX for delivery next month). I also decided to stick with the oem upgraded security system (got it at cost). I did research for several days and in the end it made sense to stick with it. I'm also adding hood locks, the manual fuel cut-off switch, and a pedal brake lock. I figure if the bastard still wants to steal my car he can have it and I'll replace it with the insurance money. Good luck 
Registered User
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 76
From: Corunna, Ontario
Car Info: 02 Blue WRX
Hey does anybody want to buy my factory upgraded alarm/remote car starter?
I paid $500.00 (canadian) to get this marvel of 80's technology.
The brain is HUGE, and in my mind a huge waste of money. I thought that the Subaru upgraded system would be a plug and play affair, but no dice. It is spliced into the wiring (mine wasn't even soldered.
I have no shock sensor on the thing, go ahead and beat the h out of the car, no alarm!!! and for the trunk, open her up, security is flashing on the dash and the trunk is wide open.
I have gotten the autopage with the lcd screen, I push the start button, and the remote lets me know if it received the signal.
Here's what sold me on this.... If you are at work/in the mall etc. and someone sets off your alarm, the remote beeps and viberates. when you look at the screen the remote tells you what is happening to your car, weither it be an impact (hammer shown) of if someone keys it, the micro-resinance resistor shows a little lightning bolt to symbolize metal on metal contact.
I have every option available on the alarm, (air pressure sensors, micro resinance resistors. micro wave sensors)
The alarm cost me close to $1600.00 (canadian) installed, but now if anything happens, I will be informed, and can protect my investment.
I paid $500.00 (canadian) to get this marvel of 80's technology.
The brain is HUGE, and in my mind a huge waste of money. I thought that the Subaru upgraded system would be a plug and play affair, but no dice. It is spliced into the wiring (mine wasn't even soldered.
I have no shock sensor on the thing, go ahead and beat the h out of the car, no alarm!!! and for the trunk, open her up, security is flashing on the dash and the trunk is wide open.
I have gotten the autopage with the lcd screen, I push the start button, and the remote lets me know if it received the signal.
Here's what sold me on this.... If you are at work/in the mall etc. and someone sets off your alarm, the remote beeps and viberates. when you look at the screen the remote tells you what is happening to your car, weither it be an impact (hammer shown) of if someone keys it, the micro-resinance resistor shows a little lightning bolt to symbolize metal on metal contact.
I have every option available on the alarm, (air pressure sensors, micro resinance resistors. micro wave sensors)
The alarm cost me close to $1600.00 (canadian) installed, but now if anything happens, I will be informed, and can protect my investment.
Guest
Posts: n/a
Originally posted by pmartell12
I have gotten the autopage with the lcd screen, I push the start button, and the remote lets me know if it received the signal.
The alarm cost me close to $1600.00 (canadian) installed, but now if anything happens, I will be informed, and can protect my investment.
I have gotten the autopage with the lcd screen, I push the start button, and the remote lets me know if it received the signal.
The alarm cost me close to $1600.00 (canadian) installed, but now if anything happens, I will be informed, and can protect my investment.
Too bad I wasn't closer to the Canadian border, I could use the exchange rate and get a decent price for the system
Registered User
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 76
From: Corunna, Ontario
Car Info: 02 Blue WRX
ibizan - the model that I have is the 750 system and I had it installed by a local shop. It came with the car start and alarm. I paid a little extra for a few more sensors.
The security system worked the way that I wanted it to after it was installed. I am happy with the system now, and have a little more sense of security.
The security system worked the way that I wanted it to after it was installed. I am happy with the system now, and have a little more sense of security.
Guest
Posts: n/a
Originally posted by pmartell12
ibizan - the model that I have is the 750 system and I had it installed by a local shop. It came with the car start and alarm. I paid a little extra for a few more sensors.
ibizan - the model that I have is the 750 system and I had it installed by a local shop. It came with the car start and alarm. I paid a little extra for a few more sensors.
Registered User
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 76
From: Corunna, Ontario
Car Info: 02 Blue WRX
oops, my mistake, the bill I was looking at had My door, tweeters and rear deck speakers on it as well. The total for the alarm looks like $514.00, and 6 hours labour to install plus taxes.
Sorry for any confusion. But I am really happy with the upgrade.
Sorry for any confusion. But I am really happy with the upgrade.
Guest
Posts: n/a
Originally posted by pmartell12
...I am really happy with the upgrade.
...I am really happy with the upgrade.
Guest
Posts: n/a
Ibizan - you speak of a manual fuel cutoff switch. Can you enlighten me further as to where or how I can do a similar installation? After some research, it seems that a fuel cutoff switch is a great way to keep the car...in my hands i guess. Can you speak further to this?
Guest
Posts: n/a
Originally posted by Enigma76
Ibizan - you speak of a manual fuel cutoff switch. Can you enlighten me further as to where or how I can do a similar installation? After some research, it seems that a fuel cutoff switch is a great way to keep the car...in my hands i guess. Can you speak further to this?
Ibizan - you speak of a manual fuel cutoff switch. Can you enlighten me further as to where or how I can do a similar installation? After some research, it seems that a fuel cutoff switch is a great way to keep the car...in my hands i guess. Can you speak further to this?
As you know the fuel cut-off is integrated into the fuel line, this device prevents the flow of fuel once the fuel in the line is used. Only a special key deactivates the cut-off. For a few bucks, you can install a switch in the power circuit to the fuel pump. You hide the switch in a secret spot. With the switch off and fuel pump dead, the engine quickly dies. The car cranks like usual, but doesn't run for more than a few seconds. Unless the thief has a tow truck handy, your car isn't going anywhere
. Like I said, I haven't installed the mod yet since I won't have the car for a few more weeks. My guess is you'll need the following stuff for a DIY job (but if others here have done it perhaps they can elaborate). I'm sure you can have your dealer do it as well. [list=1][*]Wire cutters and stripper[*]10-ft of 12 gauge wire or one size smaller (length depends on where you put the switch)[*]Sharp knife (exacto, razor blade, etc)[*]Shrink tube insulation or electrical tape (shrink wrap/tubes work better, try Radio Shack e.g.)[*]Soldering gun/solder[*]Male/female connectors[*] A two-pole switch (e.g a rocker switch that's rated for automotive use).[/list=1]
As for the steps, I contacted a buddy of mine who already had them written out. Too long to include here so I'll submit in a separate post...
Last edited by Ibizan; May 20, 2003 at 08:37 PM.
Guest
Posts: n/a
Here are the steps I mentioned...
======FORWARD=======
Step #1. Here's the creative part. Find a location for hiding the switch. I'd tell you where I put mine, but then I'd have to kill ya. However, here are some suggestions:
· Under the shift boot. Invisible. You press through the boot cover to hit the switch. You might have to do some fabrication of a switch holder bracket.
· In the ashtray/cigarette lighter area (be sneaky)
· Inside the console compartment (too obvious)
· Inside one of the lockable storage bins (hmmmmm)
· Inside the trunk of the car (pain to get to, but max hidden)
· Any place that's a blind spot. I don't recommend the glove box or under the dash. Too obvious. Remember, the car jacker has probably already disabled your alarm, ignition kill, and starter kill system. He'll deduce that you have a poorly maintained car, or you have another kill switch somewhere.
Step #2. Remove the back center panel (just pull off) and big storage bin piece (screws). You might need to undo the screws on the back of the center console (one screw in bottom of console cover area). Then locate the top of the fuel pump. It's on the shelf where the storage bins rested, pretty close to the center. A round dohicky with a bundle of wires going to it.
Step #3. Carefully open up the cover of the wire bundle leading to the top of the fuel pump. The bundle of wires split at some point with 3 wires going to the fuel sending unit and low fuel connector, and two wires going to the C566 connector and pump. Mine had electricians tape around it. Locate the yellow/green wire (that's yellow wire with green stripe). This is the power wire (from ignition circuit) that fires up the fuel pump. [If still confused on the what is what, wires to ignore are yellow/white, black/yellow, black/white, & green/red. They are for sending unit to fuel gauge and low fuel light.] I used the yellow/green wire myself. Cut the wire. Strip some of the insulation off of both ends (just enough to connect with male and female connectors).
Step #4. Locate where you want to install the switch. Figure out how you're going to affix or attach the switch. If access to connecting the wires is limited, wait until the last minute to glue, screw, or bolt the switch down. I super glued mine. Improvise.
Step #5. Connect a new section of wire to the wire coming out of the fuel pump. You do have the option to hard wire the circuit . However, I soldered a female connector to the wire coming out of the pump and a male connector on the new wire (more about this later). Use a hair dryer to shrink insulation over the connection. Your option is to use electrician tape.
Step #6. Route that wire to your switch. Solder or use a female plug connector to attach to one pole of the switch.
Step #7. Now, take another piece of wire and connect to the other pole of the switch (female connector or solder). Route that wire back to the fuel pump area.
The rest of the steps are included in another post (damn, keep running out of room)
======FORWARD=======
Step #1. Here's the creative part. Find a location for hiding the switch. I'd tell you where I put mine, but then I'd have to kill ya. However, here are some suggestions:
· Under the shift boot. Invisible. You press through the boot cover to hit the switch. You might have to do some fabrication of a switch holder bracket.
· In the ashtray/cigarette lighter area (be sneaky)
· Inside the console compartment (too obvious)
· Inside one of the lockable storage bins (hmmmmm)
· Inside the trunk of the car (pain to get to, but max hidden)
· Any place that's a blind spot. I don't recommend the glove box or under the dash. Too obvious. Remember, the car jacker has probably already disabled your alarm, ignition kill, and starter kill system. He'll deduce that you have a poorly maintained car, or you have another kill switch somewhere.
Step #2. Remove the back center panel (just pull off) and big storage bin piece (screws). You might need to undo the screws on the back of the center console (one screw in bottom of console cover area). Then locate the top of the fuel pump. It's on the shelf where the storage bins rested, pretty close to the center. A round dohicky with a bundle of wires going to it.
Step #3. Carefully open up the cover of the wire bundle leading to the top of the fuel pump. The bundle of wires split at some point with 3 wires going to the fuel sending unit and low fuel connector, and two wires going to the C566 connector and pump. Mine had electricians tape around it. Locate the yellow/green wire (that's yellow wire with green stripe). This is the power wire (from ignition circuit) that fires up the fuel pump. [If still confused on the what is what, wires to ignore are yellow/white, black/yellow, black/white, & green/red. They are for sending unit to fuel gauge and low fuel light.] I used the yellow/green wire myself. Cut the wire. Strip some of the insulation off of both ends (just enough to connect with male and female connectors).
Step #4. Locate where you want to install the switch. Figure out how you're going to affix or attach the switch. If access to connecting the wires is limited, wait until the last minute to glue, screw, or bolt the switch down. I super glued mine. Improvise.
Step #5. Connect a new section of wire to the wire coming out of the fuel pump. You do have the option to hard wire the circuit . However, I soldered a female connector to the wire coming out of the pump and a male connector on the new wire (more about this later). Use a hair dryer to shrink insulation over the connection. Your option is to use electrician tape.
Step #6. Route that wire to your switch. Solder or use a female plug connector to attach to one pole of the switch.
Step #7. Now, take another piece of wire and connect to the other pole of the switch (female connector or solder). Route that wire back to the fuel pump area.
The rest of the steps are included in another post (damn, keep running out of room)